billywizzo

Hi I just fixed my drivers window on a MK2. The motor worked but glass would not go up or down. I replaced the window runners and cables, called the window lifter. Easy to do once door panel is off, only 4 torx screws and some tie wraps. I got mine from VW for £62 as it was over £100 on ebay with a motor and i didn't need that. Bill

Hi Not sure if this will help but I managed to replace the pulley and electromagnet on my old mk1 galaxy aircon compressor. I am sure if you can do it on a mk1 you could do it on a mk2. I got it from a ford dealer as it was the only place to get it from. Bill

Also check that your windscreen has not become unstuck from the frame (they are glued in place). My old MK1 was leaking into passenger side and it was the windscreen leaking on that side. Took me ages to find it but a new screen fixed it. Bill

Cheers for the replys

Just to add ( cant edit my post ) if I did use it where do you think i spray it. just into the intake after the maf or somewhere else. Cheers

Hi Anyone used this 10K Boost Diesel De-coke http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_185236_langId_-1_categoryId_165750#dtab Thought I might give it a go as the car has just clocked the 100,000 miles now.

Hi I can only suggest you uninstall everything including the cable driver and then reinstall after a restart. Also make sure that in device manager on the laptop that the cable is the correct port and only use that usb port to plug the cable into.Different usb ports make it a different com port so vagcom wont find it unless you retest.Also plug in the cable before starting vagcom. If it is reading one module it should read all of them. You have tried it with the engine running. I know that mine will only read the engine module with the engine running. Only things I can think of . Bill

Sounds about right. You can get a cheaper one (BERU GH001) from an auto factors but I don't think they last as long. The newer uprated one will have the leads attached and you need to remove the old leads from the heater plug when you fit it. The cheaper one is just a straight swap. Bill

Hi It is a bit tricky as you are doing it most by feel. A small flat blade screwdriver is great to get the clip out with, just get the blade into the bottom of the clip and pull it down. It is probably fitted from the bottom up but I refitted mine from the top. Just make sure you don't drop anything. Also you will need to get some coolant fluid as you will need to top it up. Once I got mine out, I took it with me to the auto factors to make sure I got the correct one. It is just a pain to get to but fairly easy once you can get a hand to it. Bill

Hi Just want to know from anyone who has fitted a switch for the aux heater what type of switch and where you have fitted it in the car. I plan to fit one but was just after info about what other people have fitted. I was looking to fit it in one of the blank switch plates next to the heater modual below the heated screen switches. Also has anyone left the temp switch in the circuit and just used the switch to make the circuit when the temp switch wont. So the heater will still run automatically when it is cold if the switch if off. Not sure that the wife will remember to turn it on when it is cold or even turn it off. I don't drive the galaxy much so it will be up to her to use it. Cheers Bill

When it is cold enough outside, start the car and just sit in it. After a few minutes you should hear the aux heater start up. It will sound like a jet engine. If the heater exhaust is hot with hot air coming out then it is working fine. Sometime mine will kick out smoke when it tries to start first time round, don't think the glow plug gets hot enough on its first attempt to start. I also find that if the car has been running for a bit with the aux heater running, I then stop for a short while and then start up again the temp switch does not switch on as the area under the wipers must warm up with the engine heat while stopped. After a bit of driving it will then switch and start the heater if needed. Maybe this is what happened to you and it smoked on the attempted start but fired up on the second go and was working when you got home. It also can take a few runs to get rid of the old unburnt fuel left in the heater from failed starts. Bill

Cheers for the info. Was looking at either the programmable kit, or just fitting a manual switch so I can turn it on and off when I want. I was thinking of leaving the temp switch in the circuit and just put the manual switch across the temp switch wires so if it is not cold enough for the temp switch to turn on I could turn it on with a switch in the car. ie in the summer turn it on a couple of times just to keep it working as I think leaving it not working for half the year can not be good for it when it does get needed next winter. Also if the temp switch is still in use it will still fire up automatically as needed. Bill

If you have the free vagcom then I dont think you can start the fan on the aux heater with it. The fan will try to run as soon as the heater gets the signal to run. Look on ebay as people have heater parts for sale. 01135 interior monitoring sensors 35-10 intermittent is for the alarm sensors but dont know the other. Best to just sort out one thing at a time. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes Is where i found out what some of the fault codes are. Like people say just make a note of the codes and then clear them. Sometimes it is just a glitch and the wont come back.

Have you had any luck getting this kit to work. I have been looking into doing the same mod myself but as the car has just got through the mot and everything seems to be working, not sure i should start to fiddle with it. Bill

Hi Have you checked the windscreen for leaks. I am not sure about how the MK2 screen is fitted but my old MK1 windscreen became dis-bonded and it was leaking from there. Took me ages to find it and needed a new windscreen fitted to cure it. It was not obvious it was from the window as it looked like it was coming from somewhere else. Happened to push on the screen while looking for the leak and felt it move. Just a thought to try and help out. Bill

The heater will get warm as the run on pump is pushing the warm engine water round the heater. Mine feels warmish after the engine has been running but the heater has not been running. Not had the 01414 error so cannot help but does it not give any other info in vagcom along with the error code. Bill

Try searching for either run on pump or aux pump and you will find out all about it. Bill

Not all of the modules will be fitted to your car and so will not work. As long as you can get one of the modules to read in vagcom, it is working as it should and any fitted will read. The engine module needs the engine running (does on mine)to be read. Bill

Dont bother with the auto scan as the free version will only scan 3 modules then stop so you need to do each one on it own.

Just to ask, have you had the key apart as the transponder chip easily falls out, happened to me . Bill

Hi The disc should come with vagcom409.1 which is ok to use. The newer version VCDS- Lite is the same but will work on windows 7 as vagcom sometimes wont. Will try and help you install it but i did it ages ago so hopefully will remember all the steps. First you need to install the cable driver so put the cd in the drive then plug in the cable. When it asks about drivers, you should tell the computer to look at the cd selecting the folder for your windows version. Hope that makes sense. Then when it says finished you can install vagcom or VCDS. Once installed you need to go to the car. Plug the cable into the car, the socket is in the trim under the steering wheel, and turn on the ignition. Start up vagcom and then run options. You need to select a com port and then click test. You may need to try all of them until it says port ok device found or something like that. Then exit the options and click select control module. Then select the aux heater. Then fault codes and make a note of any listed and then clear codes. The engine one needs the engine running (well does on my car). That is the procedure for all the modules although some wont work as they will not be on your car. Wont go into the meas block untill you get it up and runing. As long as you only do the basic function it is safe to use and you wont damage anything. Always best to clear fault codes to see it it was a glitch a while ago or if they come back. This is a good place for info on it http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page Good luck. Bill

If you plan to keep the car for a few years, then I suggest that you get the newer uprate glow plug from a VW dealer as it will last a lot longer. I have been through 2 cheaper ones in a year and now have the newer one. You don't have to be techy minded to use vagcom for code clearing as all the instructions were on the disc that came with mine, and it was under

Hi Dunno about the ticking noise but I am sure someone will. As for the temp gauge. Does you aux heater (the one under the rear passenger door, not in the car) work. This could be part of the problem. When mine didn't work, the heater fans on full were cooling the water down quite a bit in the cold weather. I would look into the aux heater and get it working and also the run on pump as the heater does need it to stop it overheating. Also look into getting a vagcom lead and software (from fleabay) so you can see what the car is doing a bit better, like fault codes and running temperatures. Don't think it is the water pump as it would overheat not underheat if it was broken. Bill

Hi Drop links are usually the first things to try. Easy to change and not to expensive. Bill

No Idea mate. I use one I got from flea bay and it does all I need at the moment. It is a blue lead/connector with free vagcom supplied.