daddyfixit

mine was the same fault, i found 3 broken wires in driversdoor gaiter see FAQ on here which explains step by step repairs to door loom it worked for me

is it an aftermarket radio ?? perhaps radio permanent feed isnt wired through an ignition switched live ? in other words its always powered up.

if you watch it, is it bouncing up and down a lot ??? if so it sounds like it is getting too weak to keep belt tensioned.

ask them to check all gearchange cables on top of the gearbox, underneath the battery tray for wear and tear get them to try it when car is cold and after a run, perhaps clutch is on the way out ???

sump threads pulling out is common, i change our galaxy oil twice a year; year before last on new years eve i undone the bung and brought all the threads out of the sump !!! having done 2 changes a year for previous 5 or so years.. instead of buying a new sump, i used a heli-coil kit---------this installs a new threaded insert made of stainless steel wire, super strong and doesnt leak at all !!! kits are on ebay but most garages would have the nouse on how to do this type of repair, takes about 2 hours as i was 110% sure that i left no old bits of thread/swarf in my sump.

both windows are wired via the double switch in drivers door, thats were mine had broken 3 wires at once in the rubber door gaiter but caused central locking to stay shut !! seems window.central locking faults are usually started in the door loom

get it up on a ramp or axle stands; keeping long hair and loose clothes away from anything rotating !!! with the engine running and the sump shield off----- carefully start wiggling any parts of the wiring loom you can see, anything near the coil packs,all engine sensors, just wiggle the wiring and the multi-plugs that join the looms together. wiring to crank sensors, the gearbox sensors, anything that s wired up !! it sounds like you have a broken wire or even a loose plug some where ?? then drop the lower half of the dashboard and do the same, where there are any connectors under dash or even rattling the fuse box itself ??? eventually there must be something you wiggle that causes the misfire to happen as you mess with it..........

if i had 5k, i wouldnt hesitate in buying another galaxy; big, safe, roomy-yes its got its weak points that p*ss everybody off but so has every other car that you see on the road !!! this site also has enough owners who have added helpful posts to keep the car on the road for as long as possible ???

suggest you look inside the door looms, common for wires to break inside the rubber gaiter look in faq section---thats how i learnt of the fault and its a couple of hours at the most?

i would expect that any caliper can move a little bit on its slide ? but they would have to move quite a bit to allow the caliper piston to move out further when the pressure is on and cause brake pedal to travel so far? if you pump up the pedal a few times and keep pressure on it, does it stay in same place or creep down? if it creeps down then i would say the primary piston seal has gone and allowing brake fluid back into the reservoir while the piston carries on moving forwards. if its doing this, you may also see the brake fluid level raise while pressing the pedal and keeping it pressurised, possibly seeing tiny little bubbles coming to the surface of the brake fluid in the reservoir.

wet weather shouldnt affect brakes, but as already suggested check the pipework from the servo to the vacuum pump on the engine carefully. if its a loose fit at either end or it is cracked/split, then it will leak and prevent servo from helping you stop the car.

the 5w-40 numbers on the engine oil are to show its viscosity (thickness) in the old days there was a winter oil, and 6 months later you changed to a winter oil !!! then along came multi-grade oil, (capable of being thin in the winter for easier starting, and thicker in the hot summer months instead of thinning out) which is why there are 2 numbers on the containers nowadays.

on saturday morning i was looking at the results of buying cheap,shite--so called turbo diesel oil for tdi engines; a skoda superb tdi came in misfiring, after scanning it and then doing a compression test, it was found that number 1 cylinder was at fault. upon taking the rocker cover off, number 1 camshaft journal had almost gone, it had rubbed all the way through the hydraulic tappet, exposing the inards of it and then sending all the swarf off around the engine on a merry, destructive journey. upon speaking to other vw/skoda repairers, the camshafts destroying them selves is quite common, and its always number 1 cylinder that does it........... the cars is a private hire taxi, so would be expected to be serviced regularly ???? apparently not as the oil was low anyway, the repair cost will be passed onto the driver of the car !!!!! i would close this thread by saying "buy PD oil for PD engines".

the pump is really a solenoid, so the clicking is it sucking/pumping fuel from the tank, across the underneath of the car to the aux heater--------yes the noise is annoying, but proves pump is working. the electric pump behind the fuel filter is repairable, there are threads on here and the german site (sgaf) that show how to fit new brushes--------and it works too !!

eurocarparts were doing them for

also get underneath and check driveshaft inner joint hasnt gone ??? splines wear down ? there are threads on here you need to have a look at them..........

check on here, door loom in drivers door goes off its head ! after 7 years of repairing the tailgate loom, last month my central locking wouldnt work from inside---the drivers double switch. after reading the faqs and reading the guide i found 2 or 3 broken wires in the drivers door gaiter and repaired them. BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU HAVE UNDONE THE TWIST-LOCK ON THE LOOM------I KNOCKED THE BODY MOUNTED PIECE BACK INTO THE DOOR PILLAR AND HAD TO STRIP OUT THE FUSEBOX LID TO PUSH IT BACK INTO REACH !!!!!!

search on here for maf sensor, mine went at about 100k as well. dont buy a used one either !! gsf sell genuine bosch factory recon units for about

trying to keep away from kids & the mrs yesterday; so removed both headlamps, found nearside wheelarch access panel is missing so behind headlamp is filled with years of sh=te off the road !!! rusted T25 screws caked in said road dirt were a pain!! headlamps out and stripped both motors, drivers side works but passenger side doesnt (probably due to being caked in crap) also refitted air cleaner snorkel which looks like its never been attached where it passes through o/s wheelarch and meets air filter box, hope its quieter to drive now ?? will price a new motor through ford trade club, as never see galaxies in scrapyards up here ???? but another job done using advice from the site thanks again

simply stuck on, and the new badge will fall to bits in a couple of years as well !! (just like the rear one)

it goes in between the air filter box and the air hose leading to inlet manifold, its also got a wiring loom and multi-plug attached to it. they dont take to being cleaned very well , they usually fail with no warning !! get a rebuilt bosch one from gsf,(about

new springs will be much bigger than the ones you see fitted to the car; the new spring has to be compressed using a special tool so that it will fit onto the shock absorber do not try to take your old springs off without seeking help and using the spring compressing tools or you will get hurt as the spring is released and expands itself to the size of the springs you have bought !!!! if you dont have spring compressing tools then do not even attempt to remove the front shock absorbers.

only proper way to test them is when the cars back together and on its wheels; try and bounce the car with your body weight, when you stop bouncing it the car should also stop bouncing, mot test does this and usually it should bounce once then stop,if it carries on wobbling then the shocker isnt working. if theres any oil leaking out from under the dust cover then its failed and need renewing.due to the size of the galaxy the shockers are workinghard anyway, euro car parts are doing them for

only the obvious things like dismantle and dry the fob out ????

i got somebody to hold onto the roof rail while they stood on the top of the tyre, to lever the arm lower so i could get the spring out and the new one back in. if it needs shockers, eurocar parts are doing them for