daddyfixit

so was the sliced finger !! i seen my a*se bigtime when my finger got stuck in the glove, pulled back and slices under fingernail. so the bloods on the bulb, finger from glove still in there too !!! but i won a pair of nightbreaker bulbs in a magazine competition, so when a bulb next goes i will fit the pair (carefully)

1. doesnt it have a sensor in offside rear pad ???? sure mine has? 2.any brake warning light on is an mot fail now.

inner cv boots are now part of mot test, same applies to inner boots as it does to outer ones, i think you take the outer cv joint off and slide new boot down over the inner cv joint, then refit outer joint and cv boot. ????? new flexy hose and bleed that corner, or go mad and do a full fluid change !!! easy to get bulbs wrong, my drivers new bulb is covered in blood and has a piece of rubber glove still trapped in the retainer !!!!

i only know the part number on mine; 100. a generic number used through the aftermarket manufacturers.

the euro pollen filters are boxed and by bosch, they arent that good !! very flimsy compared to a fram filter. my last one was a genuine vw charcoal one from tps (vw dealer).

stick on, they last 2-3 years and fall to bits again---just like the front one does........

there are many posts on here---its the auxilary fusebox; the lead from the alternator causes the terminals to overheat as there is a bad connection (resistance) caused by age !! you can sometimes re-solder a new terminal onto the end, and clean all contacts with emery paper before refitting leads. the fusebox is cheaper from ford, not vw the lead from the alternaor is available from ford and other posts give part number and price.

i think the 3 pins also push the 2 block connectors apart as well ?? i remover fusebox lid so i could push a wooden rod onto the rear of the female socket in the a-pillar as it kept falling inside ! spray loads of lube on the locking ring as it has a rubber o-ring it passes over to keep water out---it kept jamming on that.

drivers door is the master ; so i assume that if there are wires gone in the a-pillar rubber boot, theres the problem ? mine was locking but wouldnt unlock---ended up being 3 wires fked in the rubber gaiter

normal, nothing to worry about.

dont think its on a separate fuse? if the bulb looks ok then i would be checking the world-famous tailgate wires in the rubber gaiter on the top right hand side of the tailgate when its opened. these cause fog,reverse,side,brake lights to go mad---rear wash/ wipe to stop and the central locking to refuse to unlock. will also illuminate rear fog lamp warning and glowplug warning lights !!

done mine for the 2nd time on saturday, a red /yellow wire had rubbed through a thick brown one. spliced them and heatshrunk until the next time................

the infamous tailgate wiring shorted out/snapped spaghetti puzzle rears its head again !!!! buy a decent soldering iron, some heatshrink tubing and some lengths of cable in different colours. and i still have a new loom to be made up and fitted to mine , just dont fancy a day of cursing while the kids are off !!!

oooops !!! was meant to say " INTERACTING", but it wont let me edit the post ?

today was the day i planned the car was getting its cambelt/waterpump done (153,550 miles); 1. gets in it this morning to find nsf window fully down ! bollocked the mrs , telling her how luckyshe was that it hadnt rained ! 2. i moved car from drive onto main road and locked it using remote 3. her mum walks past me opens nsr door, gets something out and then shuts the door ??????? 4. i re-locked the door (hazards flashed) and walked over to it---------within 10 seconds both front windows dropped about 2 inches and the doors unlocked ! 5. open car, ignition on to send windows up again. pressed remote again to lock car 6. short wait and the windows started juddering down, osf all the way but nsf opened about 2 inches. 7. osf door loom again---2 wires twisted against each other and insulation missing---possibly these 2 intercating ? so cut/splice/heatshrink and keep fingers crossed. and so on to mates garage to do the cambelt----- eurocarparts sent an skf cambelt kit,a new hydraulic tensioner, new kwp waterpump and an skf auxilary drive belt tensioner , longlife antifreeze for £170 inc vat. turns out 90bhp anu engine is most costly kit..................it runs smoothly and quieter now due to new aux.belt tensioner.

5w- 40 fully synth oil, the handbook advises an infereior oil ususally used in all the ford 16v petrol engines (5-30 fully synth). i buy fuchs titan gt-1 pd from local ford dealers but all motor factors will sell a decent pd- engine oil (unique oil for vw engine)

i fitted mine in work today, then came home to do the wiring; a fixed ball type off ebay , from a place called p.f jones in manchester £86.70 delivered---bar,ball single electrics kit and warning bleeper !! and as expected, i whacked my shins on it after parking the car up the drive for the night !!! we are going to try camping so i opted for easiest/cheapest in case my kids hate it !!-------roll on thomas cook airlines next summer !!!

very common to all the 1900 pd engines-------gsf stock the tubes !! they turn so brittle with age, as though made out of walkers plain crisps !!!

dead easy !!! and takes 10 minutes to fix remove the heater control panel, 4 small torx screws behind the front after you have pulled it off, there are 2 wiring loom plugs attached to the rear of it---take them out. make sure the wires are not touching anything, then turn ignition on for 10 seconds then turn it off again. refit the 2 wiring loom plugs, refit the control unit and leave ignition on for 10 seconds then turn it off again. now start the car and it should be working again, temp,direction and rear blower motor---------there is a revised control unit available from ford at a silly price -----------or try my way to fix it for free ?????? done mine several times in 8 years of owning the car.

i am putting a fixed bar on mine this week (still awaiting delivery) if the mrs gets it wrong she will cave in the garage door as she reverses, or worse still drag a car out of a parking bay as she does a point turn in her works carpark !!!

you have to clean all the crap out of were the pads sit, its baked on brake dust that hardens ! scrape off with a screwdriver and copperslip the pad edges were they rest in the caliper--------if not they wont move out squarely, they will kink over on the caliper were the crap is, brakes will still work but the pads and discs will wear oddly. i will guess that they didnt clean the calipers up before attempting to fit your new pads back in ( knocking them into place with pliers or a hammer), ask can you watch as its dismantled to see if they struggle to pull pads back out to inspect them.

i went looking on google for a new denso compressor for mine (90bhp-anu) cheapest place for a brand new unit was a motor factors called autobits, somewhere in london --i paid over the phone by card and they sent it to the garage that was doing the repair for me, up here in far north of liverpool. if i can find the invoice i will get more details on here.

when i was after a multi changer i was told by several car hi-fi installers that the ford radios are made by visteon and will only couple up to a ford (visteon unit). now that was 8 years ago so time has moved on !!!!! perhaps there are others that will match up, or even some sort of adapter ??? in line to fit a more common brand?? any car hi-fi installers near your home ???

did you disconnect the look from the door to the car body( a-pillar) ? as thats where they break; i dont have elec mirrors but it stopped the central locking from opening from the in-door switch, i repaired 3 in all

mine fell to bits also !! leaves very fine balck powder everywhere when touching drivebelts !!! tried putting it back with spray-glue, it melted off again........ will try sika flex to see if it works ???