daddyfixit

SO 8 YEARS LATER, THE BRUSHES NEEDED DOING AGAIN !! I ALSO HAVE A SPARE PUMP THAT IS GETTING NEW BRUSHES PUT IN OVER THE WEEKEND BRUSHES OFF EBAY £5.98 FOR 2 X PAIRS

ive just bought a skoda fabia sdi---polo/golf no rear washers as the pipe uses the same joint UNDERNEATH THE ABS PUMP !!

as above, I need a drivers mirror--manual adjusted type for my mk 2 gal please

stub shaft; comes in 2 parts, if you buy from J & R they supply all new bolts washer, the brass conical bearing as well. Ford prices was in the £100's, seem to think it was less than £100 when I put mine on a couple of years ago. I also replaced the driveshaft seal at same time...about £10 from Ford. clever fella at j&r was called Lee who I spoke to

its time to get out & get under again !!! cold weather is here and heater is off again !! will post more after I have spent the weekend fighting with it !

sorry rainbow; only just seen this at top of screen as a notification... ended up paying a tenner at local over-priced breakers.

i need a tailgate and a rear bumper for my 2000 lx.. medium steel blue colour if possible ? I'm located in Merseyside near m57/m58 motorways can anybody help....?

make sure engine is running while you check for leaks, needs to be pressure in system so it will leak easily. i was given an old unit off a Vauxhall (honest) that had cracked internally and water was dripping out of the booster heaters exhaust pipe. Vauxhall mount them behind the headlamp he said---no antifreeze in system so that's probably what caused his to fail.

im going to hazard a guess that its the pivot point for reverse or top gear selector arm ? don't fiddle with it ! or that gearbox may be wanting to lie down alongside your car with a Haynes manual ....

I need a seatbelt buckle, the part the belt clicks into--that's attached to the seat. its for the passenger side seat nearest door in the 2nd row ( I'm not sure if they are handed so I specified its the left-hand side seat. anybody got one ???

is anybody breaking a mk2 at all ?? I need the seatbelt buckle that's bolted to the side of the seat as mine has fallen to bits and no longer works. its the left hand seat in the middle row, I don't know if they are all the same (as right-hand side seats) you need to undo 1x t20 torx, a phillips screw, then pop side of seat base off to undo a 17mm bolt. can anybody help out on this one ?? thanks

get second opinion, let somebody else have a listen to it; if its had wrong oil in for a while (usually taxis) the camshafts do wear, they grind a hole in the followers and the camshaft lobes quickly disappear which gives lumpy running and very noisy engine. get it checked sooner than later as if its been doing it for a while the entire engine lubrication system will be full of metal filings-------these would be impossible to remove without engine removal/stripdown and a lot of hours spent cleaning out oilways and such. perhaps this is why they have said its not worth stripping ??? perhaps a good second hand engine would be an option ?

dont repair it with a straight piece of wire....make it into a loop about the size of a 2 pence piece or so, it will allow wire to move inside the gaiter and not break again.

when repairing the breaks, do not simply join end to end; I put a loop in the wire I am repairing it with . only about an inch in diameter but it allows the repair to be flexible in the rubber gaiter.

remove the heater control panel---4 torx screws behind trim panel unplug both multi plugs turn ignition on/off reconnect wiring plugs refit switches/trim it now works ??

easy; 1. remove the entire unit---4 torx screws behind front panel 2 remove 2 x wiring loom multi plugs on the back of it 2. once its unplugged turn ignition on, then off again 3. refit wiring multi plugs, refit unit to dash and it will now work 4. check battery condition afterwards, unit plays up when battery is weak..

drivers door wiring.............................

1.check all your brake lights are working. 2. check all tailgate wires in the rubber boot on right-hand side when the tailgate is open---common to breakages which cause warning to come on as well.

yes, no resetting needed

i can only think that he has not tightened them. when I do driveshaft bolts up, I swing on them !!! although I have re-checked my galaxy since I put a shaft on it (also week before driving 300+ miles to looe bay) put it down to experience, your mech will have shat himself when he heard it had come off ! so he will learn as well. Loctite is an extra safety-net ....

if its when the blower is on you should check the auxiliary fusebox on top of the battery; I also had the burning smell first thing of a morning when de-misting front screen........ turned out to be the plastic fusebox was melting !!!

get a shaft off j & R, all parts needed are supplied by them. I packed the splines with grease before assembly. I think it had a rubber seal that covers the join up when its assembled ?? they have a website but I rang them , gave my reg number and it was delivered the next day to my home.

undo the allen bolt in the centre of the stub shaft that is still attached to the gearbox. I ordered a stub shaft and the intermediate shaft from j& r driveshafts in Birmingham----includes all new bolts and the tapered brass bush & spring that's needed to re-assemble it all. you will need help as the new stub needs to have its spring compressed so you can get the allen key back into the centre of the stub shaft.

mk2 seems to pop the rack seal on nearside....inflates boot and splits it.....mine lasted 170k if you are doing a rack-end, turn steering on a full lock to extend the rack out-----can sometimes loosen with curved visegrips or small stillsons the rack-end tools I have used are made by laser

i would use Delphi or trw wishbones.. Monroe shocks are ok too.