daddyfixit

when the pump was replaced, the garage surely would have checked it wasn't losing water while the engine was running afterwards ? all you can do is leave the engine running so its hot, put the heaters on so it will help bleed itself and not overheat. while its running keep an eye on the waterpump area, radiator and all hoses----the hotter it gets the more pressure it builds up in the system, and its this you are depending on to start a leak !!! if its anything the garage have done--give them it back under warranty !!! ask them to do a pressure test on the cooling system. otherwise its a tub of k-seal and a long drive to let it circulate the entire cooling system ??

do not solder the ends of the broken wires together !!! instead extend them by putting a new piece of ( more flexible ) cable in and solder it to both broken ends--this gives the cable a bit more "give" before it snaps again. I use heatshrink tubing on every solder repair instead of farting about with insulation tape.

rear isn't adjustable; but nice to check were the rears are pointing as they can throw settings out by causing car to "crab". using 4 wheel alignment also gets steering wheel straight (after farting about) and helps the fronts wear evenly, not last longer as its a galaxy, just to wear out evenly !!

just an idea, check the drivers door loom for break ??? mine would not unlock either and it was the looms kamikaze action again !!!!

think the wires on the drivers one isn't it ??

you need a 1/ drive socket set, I think its 3 x 8mm nuts hold the lamp assembly to the body. the upper one is a pain in the hoop, so pop out the oval-shaped courtesy lamp to see it, being careful as its going to be lit and therefore dont short the wires out or you will pop the courtesy light fuse!! cant be 100% sure if you do this bit, but there is a curved piece of bodywork under the lamp that covers up 2 x torx bolts ??----its very easy to crack it as you unclip/slide it off towards the rear of the car...

if the brake warning lamps on---its a fail. testers can only comment on how brake pads are if they can see the pads without removing wheeltrims.

you need the code numbers from the side of the radio, people on here can get the code for you.

the cast alloy ends break off very easily !!! there is a circlip that needs to come off so you can push the wiper spindle out of the trunnion. I used emery tape to clean up the spindles and then drilled about 4 x 1/8 of an inch holes through the side of the aluminium trunnion---this is so I can drown them with wd40 when they are re-fitted to the car using the straw on the aerosol. even though I packed grease in when rebuilding, its nice to have the holes drilled for water draining and for spray lubricating.

if it has been smoking that badly, then the cat & exhaust system will be full of oil-----that's why its still smoking ? does it smoke as soon as started ??---if so its the turbo you rebuilt. if it smokes as it warms up---its in the exhaust. run the turbo with no oil feed and you will damage the new seals/bearings. run with exhaust off it-will see if its smoking BEFORE the exhaust its clear then the exhaust system is puddled with the stuff and you need a new system

lift the passenger front carpets and sill trim off, bet you find the screenwash pipes popped off at the joint ?? the sound insulation will absorb a bath full of water !!!!! so better to cut it out at the centre console to dry it off (boiler room in work for a week ??) think I super-glued and even lockwired my 2 pipes back together ?

no, but they can be a pain to open----use long-nosed mole grips to squeeze them open. be careful of dropping the "mickey mouse ears" clip that holds the plastic tee-piece in the top of the filter---or you will lose it in the undertray. after changing filter, put ignition on/off about half a dozen times for about 10 seconds so the intank pump will prime the filter don't be tempted to press the accelerator when trying to start it----let it start and auto-bleed itself

if you only found 1 broken wire you are very lucky !! have another look.

I know 2 people who have these, using an htc phone and a Samsung; both using torque app, clearing codes from Hyundai accent (related to cat converter ) I have the app on my Samsung , I just haven't ordered a elm 327 yet....

also drivers door, and the nearside doors as they open/close a lot if you are letting passengers in all the time ???

if you put the ignition on and count to 10, turn I all he way off and do it again 2 or 3 times this gives the fuel pump time to prime itself and start sending fuel up. do this on all petrol cars when you change the fuel filter too.

check all wires in rubber boot that goes from r/h side of tailgate to car body--famous for breaking/shorting which causes all sorts of faults.

I would still be checking tailgate wires for this one .

cabs need dmf's; constant stop/start is what they were designed for--to make drive take-up smoother and to stop trans rattle on the overrun or little jaunts in traffic. you could do the job £200 cheaper but then find you are wearing out driveshafts or mountings ?? mines also an x-reg 160k, its getting noisy when starting up and I will be going the more expensive route and its the family main car for school runs and the likes. for prices try ces, its a large motor factors in Merseyside/north wales ? or eurocar parts website make sure the clutch slave cylinder is changed at the same time !!! watched a taxi owner refuse to pay to have his replaced while the box was out (approx. £40) only for it to pop the cylinder within a week !!! and yes, he did get charged full labour again...........

arm rest/rear centre console ?

loosen the nuts on the spindles (17mm ??) so the arms are loose on the splines. press the screenwash to get the wipers to operate a few sweeps and let them park, now re-arrange the wipers so they are at bottom of screen and re-tighten the 17mm spindle nuts.

I was too scared to ring the dealers !!! I have repaired door loom twice and tailgate countless times. the brown wire was one occasion, but in all I think ive repaired 3 others by splicing in a new wire, soldered and heatshrunk the repairs I had intended to rewire tailgate months ago but didn't get round to it, sgaf website has an excellent faq section for galaxy repairs

reading your posts it sounds as though the trackrod end you swapped over is worn out ? and that's why you can feel the wheel wobbling as you shake it, even though you have tightened it up.

dealers will advise buying a new unit or to disconnect it................................

as above; new plug then drive it away from your house !!! I took mine along the motorway---plumes of smoke as it was clearing itself out but eventually does. mine was smoking sooooooooooooo badly that the kids wouldnt get in the car !!!! and at traffic lights it was choking everybody near the car.