daddyfixit

alloys

check main battery terminals and the auxiliary fuse box mounted next to the battery ?

if its got a pd engine in (x-reg onwards ) then its a special oil only-----------disregard castrols books , I even ignored myowners handbook that recommends 5/30 oil ! Volkswagens pd engines have pd-specification oil and nothing else. other engines use 5/30 or 5/40

what engines in your vehicle ? as motomax didn't list the anu/90 bhp engines when I last looked ??

the daft wires in the tailgate loom, cause all sorts to go faulty; side/stop lights don't work, fog light illumination on dashboard--when you press the brakes ?, hrw lights up when keys out of the ignition ? wash/wipe not working....... like I said----they have a party with no invites given out !!!

mines a 2000, its kicking in at below 10c I think the operating temps are built into the control unit that is the end part of the main body ?

did you get it from bootle ?

or tailgate wires starting to have a party in the top right hand corner gaiter ???

merton rd scrapyard ? theres a vw breakers behind the old job centre on Stanley rd in bootle strand rd salvage near the asda in bootle near the dock road hills in skem will cost more than going to peoples ford !!

I have similar noise; comes from in front of driver ? when I am going over 30 mph around left hand corners----especially around traffic islands?? goes as soon as you straighten the wheel but keeping same speed. its been there for years, I did once re-attach air intake pipes under the wing (90bhp tdi 2000 manual)

I would suggest you replace the oil pressure switch asap, if its faulty than it will bring on the low oil pressure light/buzzer. but if it still lights/buzzes after fitting a new one then you will need an oil pressure test doing--------------gauge will screw in were the oil switch was and reads the oil pressure when the engine is idling/revved up. I done a switch on a zafira petrol 2 weeks ago, light was flickering as he drove it-----------oil was oozing out of the electrical terminal on the switch, a common Vauxhall fault.

as far as I knew, the pump not working causes the booster heater to overheat---then it shuts itself down ?? I would read the guide to changing brushes on here, I think its taken off a german sharan owners club ??? I done mine using a pair of alternator brushes, sanded down on a piece of emery paper on the kitchen table !!

check tailgate loom.

tailgate loom ; the favourite meeting point for all galaxy electrical gremlins/f-ups and niggling problems !!!

I took a motor from a diesel Vauxhall omega (mounted under osf headlight) its been in my galaxy for 2 years now. new motors are available--approx.

had it 8 years @ 162 k miles ; 2 x batteries 2 cambelt kits, 2 waterpumps, aircon compressor, aux-heater blower motor repair, 3 heater plugs for the above run-on waterpump brushes renewed 1 set front discs 2 sets front pads 1 set rear pads 6 droplinks 1 rear exhaust box 2 rear brake pipes 2 grille badges 1 tailgate badge 1 full drivers mirror (paid for by person who smashed it off) 1 x drivers seat reclining adjuster wheel 1 osr light lens (smashed by anonymous person in car park) 4 sets wiper blades countless tailgate loom repairs 2 drivers door loom repairs 16 tyres !!!! yes 16..michelins (but now bought 4 x evergreen reinforced) all repairs done by me except the aircon pump ---done and regassed by a mate. been worth ever penny and no intentions of getting rid.

get yourself a hot glue gun, worked on mine..........

airflow meter is not going to cause a misfire; it measures how much air/temperature of air going through it. the coil pack supplies a high voltage spark to the plug leads, it travels to the spark plugs and ignites the mixture. if 2 x scrapyard coils make no difference, its pointing to the plug leads or the spark plugs being the cause

1. check for broken wires in drivers door gaiter. 2. also passenger rear door 3. lastly the tailgate wires in gaiter in right hand top corner when looking at open tailgate my mk2 eats drivers door and tailgate wires like theres no tomorrow

dirty big lump hammer whacked against side of balljoint usually shocks them free ??

springs are about £40 each from motor factors; get the back end up on an 2 axle stands, undo 1 bottom shock absorber bolt at a time so the rear arm drops enough to pull the spring out. you may need a lever/trolley jack to lift the arm back up again to get the bolt back in. wouldn't bother with a balljoint, I would get whole suspension arm? about £60 cv boot; cut it off with side-cutting pliers--I cheat and use the stretchy cv boots, but you have to buy a special cone to fit them £10---£15 and it saves fighting with a circlip inside the joint. probably take a novice a day to do ??

90 bhp-anu engines have dmf as well... are there any clutch specialists near you that can do the job ??

go to a breakers, find a car with the loom on show and cut it out ??

sounds like flywheel/clutch ??

don't know were about you are but; hills in Skelmersdale ?---pricey !! vw-audi breakers in park st, Bootle behind the job centre on Stanley road (by the strand) e.b jones on county rd in Walton