Taliska

This is what the inside of the door looks like! 5 Screws (green) hold the window mechanism in, 2 cable clips (purple) to secure the cable runners, 2 clamps that hold the window (blue) - these are the clamps that broke! You feed the window mechanism in though the big hole, straighten it all out attaching the black runners near the top two screws (green), then gradually tighten all the screws up. Note that I just pulled the black, non-sticky, sticky sealant stuff off leaving most of it attached to the grey foam sheet / barrier thing - it seems fine to re-use the existing stuff.

Tip #2: just prise the door opener cable off gently to disconnect the cable from the handle (there's no need to undo the likely-looking screw on the back of the mechanism).

Tip #1: When removing the inside handle, prise it out from the front (blue arrow), so that you don't accidentally break the plastic bar (purple ellipse). Mine needed supergluing after being yanked clean off!

Well the repair (botch) lasted 5 months until the entrance to the Mont Blanc Tunnel at which point there was clunk as the repaired clamp fell to the bottom of the door. Have no alternative but to drive through the tunnel with the window stuck half open. At the other end of the tunnel, it took two of us to get the window shut - the wife controlling the switch, and me trying to guide the window into the up position with the hand clamped either side of the window. Really decided that it needed to be repaired properly this time, so was prepared to fork out the dough for the window part. Before I went to Ford to get the

Hi big_kev, Yes, I replaced the battery as soon as I noticed that it was going silly - sadly didn't seem to make much (if any) difference. It just seems mighty odd that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't - the little LED still lights on the fob... Will check the link. :-) I was thinking not to get it fixed, because as soon as I do, something else seems to go wrong immediately. Cheers, Taliska

Twas a leaking Condenser - all fixed and cool again. Oh, now the remote key seems not to work very reliably... Ford quoted about

Have retrieved the Galaxy from the garage - need to find an Aircon Specialist somewhere round Southampton - any recommendations? Cheers, Taliska

Garage didn't manage to diagnose it this afternoon - they said that it started working briefly then stopped again when they next looked. Anyone any ideas which of the several A/C bits might be bust? Taliska

Oh well, my A/C's just gone now - had it regassed yesterday when it had its MOT, and they said it was 'cold' when tested. Come to pick up the car this afternoon - nice hot day - aircon is pushing out slightly cool air. Something's still bust. What with driveshaft just repaired, front NS drop-link just repaired, I guess it's time for a massive clobbering on the A/C... Oh dear :-( Taliska

Ouch - not really up to doing myself... Thanks for your help! Could well have saved me from a more expensive diagnosis from Ford. One of the drop links has also just gone again (76k) - I wonder if that's related? Cheers, Taliska

Hi, Got Dunlop 2020Es too - came with them, so stuck with them. Just replaced my rear one at 76k, lost the other rear one to a puncture at 42k. Fronts have lasted 24k, 24k, 19k, and still got the 4th set at about 9k. Last Dunlop 2020E for 215-55-R-16 H was

Thanks a lot for that! Sounds exactly the same symptoms as mine. Any guess at the damage to the pocket at the dealers? Cheers, Taliska

Hi all, Had to get recovered home this evening - Galaxy suddenly decided to stop going forward... Pulled away, changed up, then 'crunch'... no power to the wheels. It seems that when I engage the clutch, the car moves about 6 inches, then stops with a steady crunching noise as if two gears are running over each other at a fairly low speed... Any thoughts as to what's broken? Thanks in advance for your advice, Taliska

Went into the Hendy Trade Counter to have quick check about the white brackets and metal clamps - all come in a single unit with motor and runners etc for

Hi, Well, did manage to prise the 'door card' off and get inside the door itself okay. The glass is held in two places by metal clamps that attach to white plastic mounts that are driven up and down a couple of runners. Both white plastic mounts were partially damaged by the twisting induced by trying to pull down on seized window, but they still worked ok. The clunk was the sound of one of the metal clamps coming off the plastic mount and falling to the bottom of the door. Have screwed everything back together and the window works as well as it always did - the door card doesn't fit quite as flushly to the door as it should. Methinks that rather than prising the door card off, one should merely push it upwards (very firmly) starting near the door hinge side. Detaching all the wires and door handle cable was easy enough, but did manage not to have the LED working afterwards, so I might have missed that one. Just have to consider whether it's worth replacing the few broken yellow pins and replacing the white plastic mounts (they could be very tricky to do by the looks of it), and trying to get the door card fitting flusher. Thanks for your help, as always, :-) Taliska

> long time no see .... Indeed, life's been just too busy the last couple of years - I don't seem to have a waking moment while I'm not either working or being a school governor. Nice to be remembered, cheers! > if you look in the faq - there is a link there for removing the door panel - guess you will need to take a look Thanks - will have a search and see how it goes today. Taliska

G'day again, Stupidly tried to open my driver's window when it was frosted up. Result - something fell down inside, and now the mechanism makes all the right noises, but the glass doesn't move. I'm assuming that the glass and the mechanism have parted company. Any ideas on how easy is it to get inside the door and fix this? Thanks for any help. Cheers, Taliska. (

It seems the mis-quote was the real price to do the job on a different engine... Mine's the 115bhp and the

Update: the Ford price on the cambelt change appears to have been a mis-quote that they're happy to stick to - the real price was something over

A very pertinent post - my Gal has to go for a 40K service + timing belt. Cost is

Yup, they had one - it was quite fun climbing up on the top of a car 6 feet up in the air and sliding in through the windscreen to get the beast out. :D These things are really easy to break and really easy to put back on wrongly. :( I took one off a Polo and it was exactly the same (as far as I could tell) as the Seat's, except for the colour of the connectors. :( Got it on today - just need to get the airbag reset sorted out now. What I found funny was that there's a big red plastic warning label inside the VW's steering wheel, warning you about removing the steering wheel - absolutely nowt inside the Seat's even though it's practically identical. Still for

Yes, I believe that's it's called a 'clockspring' - it's a clever bit of flat 2 core wire that can be wound up or unwound when the steering wheel is turned. I always wondered how they did it - and now I know. Regards, Taliska

This is one of those exceptions to the school of thought "test it out first before screwing it all back together". :) AAARRRGGGHHH! Really stupid thing is that I also broke the wire that connects the airbag from the steering wheel to the loom - the part from a dealer was over

Humm... I guess I'd need VAG-COM for Seat / VW. To explain what happened, I removed the steering wheel to look at the wiper controls. I did turn the ignition on to test the wipers, but I'd disconnected the air-bag so that it didn't get in the way. I suppose the car saw that the airbag wasn't there, then's set its internal flags to say "oooh, had a problem with the airbag, not going to work now until I'm reset." Taliska