Taliska

Sounds a pretty good analysis as my wipers / washers didn't work after trying to squirt at -5 degrees C. Taliska

Repeat after me... USE THE SEARCH FACILITY FIRST BEFORE ASKING As per LittleDaz's post it is fuse 33. Little Daz's very useful post on bust wipers

Used them in the morning - front wipers worked though no squirters as probably frozen, then... Get back to car in the evening and neither wipers nor squirters work. Have checked the likely fuses (seem to be more than one possibility for the wipers / washers) - all okay. Has anyone any idea as to what to check next? Thanks, all, Taliska

Well I did this today too - when I finally managed to the the toad out of the headlamp unit... The headlamp on the driver's side didn't move up or down, but when I freed it from the headlamp unit, took the back off the black plastic motor unit itself, then wired it back in and switched the headlamps on - I could see it whirring, looking as if it was trying to seek to a position. I took the motor and pcb out of the holder, and the gearing all moved easily enough... I scraped the variable resister (slider) that presumably reports back to the controller as to how far it has twisted the motor and moved the headlamps, and when I put it all back together, it seemed to work fine. The questions is for how long... I'd imagine that in my case, it wasn't the cogs that were stopping it moving, but perhaps some oxidation of the variable resistor itself that was preventing it reporting a good reading getting back to the contoller. Perhaps one should move the headlamps up and down every now and then (every couple of months?) just to give the resistor a rub? Who knows? I guess it's not the most important thing to have working. Taliska P.S. My screwheads holding the motor on were pretty rusty too - I wonder if it's because of the damp air circulating around the back there. Next time I'll grease them up when I take it apart again.

Here's a photo of it on my Mk2 Galaxy... Taliska

Does anyone know where about the part number is on the alternator? I can't see it while it is in place. How much of the car do I need to take to pieces to check? Garage told me that Ford said that they couldn't do a pulley for my 'big' alternator - I'd just like to see if they're vaguely right. Taliska

Hi, Can't be certain about this on a Galaxy, but as it is a VW, it might be the same as my wife's old Seat, which is another VW. I had to take the airbag off the Seat to get to the clock spring which I replaced - I'd broken it when replacing the indicator switch block. Duh! Having put the new one one, and checked thoroughly that it was fitted correctly - i.e. didn't go tight before the steering wheel reached the end of its travel - I unfortunately tested out the new indicator switch block before putting the airbag back on. The computer (or whatever it is) registered this as a failure - once failed, it will stay like that until it is reset via VAG-COM. I had the airbag reset at a service - was done FOC. To take it in just to get it reset would have cost

Hi, Following the instructions in LittleDaz's excellent post: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=95499 Here's a photo showing where the alternator fan blades are that you need to be pushing (click on picture to enlarge). If the photo needs correcting - or if I'm completely wrong - please post and I will fix. Taliska

Well finally got round to doing the quick test - pretty easy following the instructions: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=95499 >>> pulley is seized Did put a 16mm spanner on the tensioner, but could only shift it a little way - perhaps this job's for the garage now I know what is wrong! Taliska

Mine's at 82k and I'm just getting that feeling that it's beginning to fall to bits - I'm a bit tired of seemingly continually fixing it. :wacko: Taliska

I have this and they say it needs a new dual mass flywheel & clutch for at a cost of

This is so uncanny - I'm going to look at this same thing later today when I wake up! :-) Just going to do that test of the pulley to mechanism to see if it's that bit that's bust. Taliska

I'm going to lever the unit out tomorrow and have look at it from the underside - cheers Mirez! Taliska

Hi all, The switch on the drivers door pod that controls the rear left window has gone 'sticky' - it stays on the 'up' position. I guess that this ain't too good if left on accidentally. Someone suggested to use WD40 to clean the contacts - sounds a bit ... dodgy? Perhaps 'Contact Cleaner' would be better? Found this stuff on Google: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=4153 Tickled to see the following question on their site! Does anyone else have recommendations? Thanks Taliska P.S. Might try this on my wife's Clio's A/C switch that has also gone 'sticky'.

Ok, so I've got a bit of time to go reading through the forum, and it sounds very much like this!!! http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=95499 Taliska

Hi all, Coming towards the end of my massive repair spree that so far has included: driveshaft replacement, air conditioning condenser replacement, drop link replacement, driver's electric window repair, boot cubby-hole cover replacement, rear light cluster replacement, rear bumper strip replacement, front and rear badge replacement, heated mirror replacement, remote key replacement; I have a few minor things left, like fixing the headlight beam motor, fixing electric window switch, rear seatbelt covers... and a rattley engine. When idling, the engine vibrates really badly and the power steering makes a dreadful racket when turned (particularly at the ends of the travel). When the engine is revved a bit, the vibration goes away and the powersteering is fine. If I flip the bonnet, I can see the engine vibrating forward and backward when it idles - any idea what might be causing it? My guess, and it's a only a wild guess, is that the belt on the left side of the engine is coming to the end of its life - it's now got 82k on the clock. I think it started after a long, hard motor on a hot day down in Italy. (We always try to take the Gal on holiday with us!) Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Cheers, Taliska

Going quite a bit back in this thread to the problem I was having with my remote not working... Just a quick update to say that I did get a new remote off eBay, quickly exchanged the blade, and reprogrammed it in a jiffy AND saved a small fortune. Excellent :-) Attached is a photo of the part you need (depending on your exact model), and the little plastic bag that it came in. Thanks Big_Kev! Taliska

>> Nice reference thread with good pictures.... Thanks Seatkid - I owe this to everyone who has helped me so far with my Gal. :-) Taliska

I'd thought that I'd shunk them down enough - perhaps not. It's a barrel load of fun taking them doors apart :-) Taliska

Just two things learned recently: One branch of Hendy Ford said to me that "they do not put in the correct 5W40 oil in [for 1.9TDI Galaxy's] as a matter of course ... because it's too expensive for most of their punters". If they read the Ford manual that comes with the car, they'd see that they'd be invalidating your warranty for you. I guess if anything goes wrong with a Galaxy TDI engine that's oil-related and has been serviced regularly by Hendy, then I guess you've got some options open to you. ;-) -- And: Castrol also do some VW 505.01 oil, which is available at your friendly Halfords in useful 'top-up size'. (Had already been available on the continent for a while now, I believe). Taliska

Following on from MATT's posts, see: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=134948 A few more tips, and photos too that go right inside the door - hope you find them useful. Taliska

Picture of home-made bolt retrieval tool - dropped the dratted thing in the hole after being so careful... P.S. Not sure why all the pictures are shown reduced (will fix if someone PM's me with the answer).

The door card fits (almost) flushly to the door itself - leastwise a damned sight better that the first attenpt a few months ago!

Tip #3: You stick the grey sheet back on, remembering to feed all the cables though the holes, and re-attach the speaker. Note that I've yanked out all the yellow plugs (there's nine of them!) - the tip is: attach the new yellow plugs to the door card!! (This is the way the door cards are delivered to the factory, info courtesy of the man next door who builds cars :-) ) Hook the door card on the top of the window sill, locate all the yellow plugs in the holes, and give each one a gentle punch, and in they all pop!