MadBaz

Looks like funhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif Here's a couple of links if you haven't got them: D5WS D5WZ Wiring diagrams are near the bottom. Just a couple of pointers, The coolant pump on your car should be controlled by the fan relay, pin 6 green wire, no control from the heater. The bulb/resistor trick on the heater would have to be permanent. If you want an on/off switch, use the D+, its also connected to the temp switch under the wiper arm, don't use the permanent live. There is a diagnosis wire on the d5ws (pin 5 on both models) but it may only be read by the Eber timers, so that may have to be disconnected on the car side of loom. If you need any help pls post back, off work tomorrow with man fluhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif

I bought THIS cable, downloaded vcds lite from the Ross-Tech website, works well on Windows 7. I would at the very least superglue the joint for the rear wash. I'm not sure if you can reset airbag warnings with the free version of vcds. Did you disconnect battery and wait 10 minutes before disconnecting airbags and/or pretensioner? Check that the reverse lights work. If not then fuse 5 (15amp) is the problem.

There's a couple of options here, assuming the remote works, 1, disconnect the wiring to the barrels, I did this on my mk1 after suffering similar problems, they got round it by using part of my rockeryhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif 2, swap the front/rear door handles, does the same as above. And I'd disconnect the wiring for the boot handle, just make sure the boot will open 'manually' with an extra 1/4 turn of the key.

The secondary air pump should have one pipe in from a coke tin sized filter, and one out to the exhaust, there is also a small diameter vacuum pipe on a valve nearby. If the emissions are okay then the pump is working, it should run for the first 3 minutes when starting from cold. Whether working or not it wouldn't affect starting. Hope this helps, or at least rules it out. Regards

Chris is quite right http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif, I think I got myself confused with ABS, old age creeping up I guesshttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif. Cheers Chris.

If there is a failure in the airbag/SRS system the airbag light would be lit permantly with ign on. The light should come on for a few seconds when ign is turned on, then if all is ok extinguish. Chances are that the bulb has blown (can't remember if it is a bulb or led). The light must work for it to pass MOT. You should be able to remove cluster without removing steering wheel, I did it a few times on my old mk1. lower steering wheel and pull out as far as it'll go, Undo 2 screws at the top of cluster (you'll need a short screwdriver) and it should ease forward enough for you to unclip the 2 connectors, then ease it sideways out. I cant remember for sure but you may have to remove the white plastic cover from the back of the cluster to get at the bulbs. the bulb should be one of these CLICKY Available at halfrauds, charlie browns etc.

Give us a bit more info on what your installing and I'll give you some pointers.

Regarding adblue, It's available at some petrol stations next to the HGV pumps (look for AdBlue or Air1 signage) and sometimes they sell it in 5/10L containers, some of us lorry drivers have been lumbered with the system (SCR) for a couple of years, when it runs out it reduces engine power to around 40%. Adblue now costs around 60ppl and on my truck for around 20 litres of adblue I use ~1400 litres of diesel. BTW it's a PITA to fill from a pump, it's always clicking off, once took me 20 minutes to get 6L inhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif Adblue is 5% urea/water mix, which is dispensed into a separate tank, usually with a blue cap, it is not a diesel additive and must not be mixed with diesel. It is sprayed onto the CAT to reduce NOX emissions, there are lots of driver myths of it being pig p**s or peeing into the tank or just adding water will have no ill effects, this is simply not true, there are sensors which when they detect anything other than adblue, the ECM will reduce the power and illuminate a dealers deLIGHT, or put another way, a VERY expensive workshop light.

Afaik there shouldn't be any problems, you could remove & swap door cards and swap all the gubbins inside to give yourself leccy windows, same key for lock etc, the doors are heavy though when fully assembled.

Did't think vagcom would work on mk3 as it's completely ford. On my old Mk1, the windows came down due to broken/shorting wiring in the tailgate gaiter activating global open/close, I suppose that similar could happen with wiring in the front door gaiters.

There is a 'barrel' repair kit available on fleabay, might be on my previous posts.

I have found an alternative to the electric pump which seems to be now failing on many MK2's Bosch brushless pump And it's available here As it's brushless it should outlast the car, and be quieter, it's certainly cheaper than the original about

This prob still not sorted? I had this a year or 2 ago.

Thge foglight bypass/cut off is to stop reflective glare from the cars fogs when a trailer is attached and illuminates the trailer fogs instead. There should be a microswitch on the 12n socket. The parking sensors use this bypass to disable the rear sensors when the trailer is plugged in, stops false alarms, fault codes etc. I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams, but I do remember seeing something on TIS when I was testing my faulty rear sensors. EDIT: I may be barking up the wrong tree, a standard 12n fog cut off works on a simple nc com no circuit, where com is the fog feed, nc is to the car fogs and no is to the trailer fogs. The fog cut-off which deactivates the rear sensors maybe only on the dedicated Galaxy/Sharan trailer wiring kit.

I had this with my MK1, it was broken wiring in the tailgate rubber gaiter. IIRC the driver side & flap are on a separate circuit to the other doors. My windows would occasionally open themselves thru the nighthttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif It could possibly be the drivers door gaiter and as suggested possibly the cl module if under the passenger seat.

Nothing in Vagcom, I'm not unduly worried, might be cos it's an oilburner, first I've had in a car.

The car starts a bit lumpy and for the first 5 seconds of running when its cold, kinda like one cylinder isn't quite making a big a bang as it should, is this a cause for concern, anything to check? Battery is fine, Glowplugs fine.

Don't forget to use the foglight 'bypass' if you've got WORKING parking sensors.

Search for alfredcorsa on ebay, I've just had some bits at a not too bad price, theyre breaking various gals atm. You could also try Heggie a member on here.

I had a bit of dried up gunk in mine that gave 2 jets on each washer, pulled it out with needle nose pliers, mine now cover the whole screen and cyclistshttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif

1, undo 4 torx screws in each wheel arch 2, undo 4 torx screws above the front grille 3, there maybe some torx screws underneath, there weren't any on mine but TIS says there are. 4, I find a sharp slap to the wheel arch edge of bumper releases it from the locating lugs(either side) you may want to get a friend to hold the front to stop it dropping. 5, once released disconnect fog lamp and parking sensor connectors 6, put it somewhere where the kids won't trip over it. when reassembling don't forget to locate the bonnet release lever, you may want to borrow your friend again, as sometimes when one side is located correctly the other drops out.

All fixxed, dremeled off the flange and flare, bridged with 19mm marine fuel pipe and stuck 2 jubilee clips either side, got it vacced, gassed and oiled at kwik fit and no problems yet.

If it's a mk1, if you turn the key another 1/4 turn it should release mechanically.

Couldn't get 16th gear at 50 on the a50/a6 today, and i've got 410 horses up fronthttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif I flew up the a38 though, back to the m1, emptyhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif

keen to get home .. not so keen to get to work :blink: seriously - more hills there ? prevailing wind ? - Air colder if you go in the morning ?? LOL, I was thinking it was the traffic, but after a late day on friday still the same, and I drive with the same 'attitude' in both directions. Just one of them things I guess.