MadBaz

Tailgate wiring, no numberplate lamp active in "park" mode.

Correct for Mk1 also. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gifWhy's mine working then (C/C on auto, ambient at 0.5c)? and double checked this morning. Compressor deffo going round, as is refrigerant, ever so slight hissing from evap. Looks like I need to get the lappy out.

You could try locking the car with the boot open, press once on remote, then shut boot, indicators should then flash once and deadlocks engage, iirc alarm becomes active 30 seconds after this, try this with each door and bonnet in turn. BTW does each door inc boot activate courtesy lights? Does un/locking the driver & passenger doors and boot with key work properly? My moneys on dodgy wiring in tailgate/driver door gaitors. To lock car without activating alarm, press lock button twice quickly. Doors will lock but not deadlock and no flashing door LED.

It's an on off switch. 12v/0 ohms when closed (cold) 0v/no reading on multimeter ohms when open ( warm (>5 deg C post '03 or >10 deg C pre '03))

If you can see the compressor pulley, the one below the alternator, it should be going round with engine on and with a/c on or off, if you look at the centre of the pulley, if ii's not on/working the the innards will be static, when a/c on & working the innards spin with the pulley. I don't think there is a low temp cut off as mine works in the cold, when c/c set to clear windscreen, the compressor will shut down though if any faults are present, usually low pressure. Get a vag-com lead (~£8 on ebay) and download vcds lite (free) any faults then can be read.

It's number 5 in the FAQs http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/7886-faqs-common-questions-and-solutions/

iirc (but need to check) it's the same part number for steel or alloy. edit: Deffo the same part number for steel and alloy wheels. vw part # 7M3 601 139 B

I'll at least be getting a foc oil change if they can't prove it's up to spec, I''ll just wait and see what they say first. Just a bit peeved that I didn't see the label till tonight when I was rooting through the 'tool' cupboard.

I serviced my car at weekend using silverline extractor and the aforementioned oil, PLEASE NOTE the oil, product code 282657, does show on the website as being 505.01 spec BUT the label on the bottle does not and only shows 502.00 & 505.00. I am awaiting confirmation from Halfords as to the correct specification, and will post back if/when they reply. Seatkid in another post has mentioned camshaft wear, are there any other problems associated with using incorrect spec oil?

OH S**T, just serviced my car at weekend and used halfords 5w/40 diesel oil, just noticed the bottle label, only 502.00 & 505.00, but the website clearly shows label as being 505.01 spec.

Just to point out euro 6 requires EGR and SCRhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif

CLICK HERE and put your reg in.

Err kinda, however I once read a thread on a forum where an oil expert, what this guy didn't know about oil wasn't worth knowing, more or less said the diffewrences were marginal unless you boought really really cheap stuff, with the exception of Magnatec which has a very poor shear something or other. I think the important bit is regular oil and filter changes with the correct oil, ie don't use semi synthetic if your car is specced to use fully synthetic or a 10w40 if you should be using 5w40. We have trucks at work leased from a couple of different companies and the ones that go to the decent workshop for inspection and service tend to have fewer problems and better mpg than the same make model & year going to a ropey outfit, who have been proven not to change filters and only top up on a full service. Kinda like going down to the local garage for a service they don't charge as much as dealers but use the cheapest filters from the factors and only have one 250 gallon drum of oil for all makes.

MUST BE 505.01 or for PD engines.Castrol edge is ok, but only 4 litres, iirc you need 4.7 litres if doing filter as well. Halfords do their own, 5L @

Some more info from the horses mouth regarding SCR (adblue) systems on new VAG diesels. Clicky

Trade sale is absolute b*ll*cks and ILLEGAL, I've had this tried on me over a cracked weld on a clutch pedal (focus) dealer sorted it sharpish after just one phone call. The fact trade sale is written on receipt has him bang to rights, I'd expect the problem putting right , refund for bleeding and a goodwill gesture. Clicky Sounds like he may have tried to pull a fast one, get some advice fast.

1 yes 2 I managed without, but as I previously said it was an absolute bitch to get back in. 3 iirc no, but I did put new oil seals in.

Found a delay on timer Here, used it on my car as a delay off. This is my independent heating controls

Can you reach the cable from underneath and pull?

I've dropped my box to do clutch without removing rack, but it was an absolute pig to get back in.

The door, windows and fuel flap as suggested maybe cracked/broken wiring in the door gaiter, if not check that the door open/courtesy light switch on the b pillar is working. Check battery junction box for melting, tighten the nuts and/or solder the faulty crimps on the cables.

Not sure what you mean by having an active amp, my galaxy mk1 was fairly simple to change stereo, iirc I had to change 2 bullet connectors round (permanent & Ign Live). EDIT, Ah ah just found the relevant wiring diagrams....... Radio............Amp...........Spkr................Color 1........................8...............NSF...............Blue 2 .......................7...............-ve for NSF..Brown/Blue 3 .......................6..............NSR...............Blu/Wh 4........................5..............-ve for NSR..Brn/wh 5........................4..............OSF...............Red 6........................3..............-ve for OSF...Brn/red 7........................2..............OSR..............Re/Grn 8........................1..............-ve for OSR.Brn/Grn

The tailgate microswitch is a fairly simple affair and doesn't look easy to replace, but I'd put money on it being the loom between lid and body. I had the opposite problem, the car didn't know when lid was open and I immediately suspected wiring, fixed with 2 lengths of trailer 7 core cable and block connectors. Same fix as my old mk1.

Glad your sorted

The permanent live is really for when the car is switched off and the heater is still running, it allows it to shut down properly without overheating. Pin 3 iirc is used as an output for a telltale, it's live whenever the heater is active. I believe it gets it's signal from the flame sensor.