Smilge

Thanks Maz

Tried changing the MAF? ............... :( That's fubar'd and you're probably better off getting another Maz .... and with a guarantee.

Thanks Kev and Gregers

All the time I reckon Markie if the cc is turned on .... remember the air con also drys the air in winter although the temp is set to warm.

And me ..... here's the gen: 419 Scam

Having owned a few Mondys Carl, it's not the filter itself that causes these symptoms. It's the connecting pipes to the fuel filter housing that are not up to the job and over time they bleed air in and unless you bleed it off and replace the pipe connecting clips, the problem will remain. By changing the filter, the air is bled off until the next time it occurs.

Above post has probably hit the nail on the head. There's a good chance your main cable from the alternator to the fuse box has overheated at some point due to high resistance, and this is the cause of your 9.6V while the engine is running. I would replace not only this cable but also the main earth and clean all interconnections. You need to do this ASAP before you end up having to replace the alternator again and end up with a melted fuse box and possible engine bay fire. Hope this helps

Sorry to hear that Maz and all I can say is I'll be thinking of you and that life can only get better after everything you've had to go through. Get well soon.

I would tend to agree with Willie on this one. Another thing you might like to look at are the Anti Roll Bar (ARB)drop links as there is a slight twisting movement of the links when nearing full lock. Have a look at them while someone is operating the steering.

i believe that if the tdi badge on tail gate is all red its a 130 if silver with red edges its a 115 I think you can only go on the VW's to make this assumption. Have a look at the V5 ..... my engine code was AUY which was the 115PS version. If you remove the plastic panel at the right rear interior of the car you might find the label in there as well.

Hee Hee ...... we've got to keep an eye on Messi tonight .... mmmmm ..... then Ewbanks-Blake next season ....lol!

I'll take the galaxy off your hands then Jules ........ How's

A simple way of finding out whether or not the MAF is at fault here is to disconnect it electrically and drive it. If it appears to improve then the MAF is at fault. Just because it doesn't throw any faults up doesn't mean it's serviceable. The other sensor you might like to consider is the MAP or TMAP sensor which is basically an inlet manifold vacuum pressure sensor. These can cause problems similar to yours particularly as it appears yours is temperature related, it might be worth checking the engine temp sensor as well.

This sounds like an "air in the fuel" problem where expansion allows air to enter the system when the pump gets warmer. One way of checking is to temporarily replace the fuel feed to the injectors with clear pipe and to watch for bubbles.

Some really good points there gents and thank you for the advice. Markie ..... I tried Hankook Ventus Prime 105s when I had my Galaxy and was particularly impressed with the road holding in the wet. At

A quote from another forum: The engine is designed to run with a controlled amount of exhaust gases to reduce Nox content. If you take out the exhaust gas element the whole mappping process is disrupted. Injection quantity, injection timing and boost pressure is calculated using EGR content, air mass value, boost pressure ect ect and by removing or blocking off the EGR removed this element from the mapping process. This can cause running issues as Air Mass values are incorrect as the EGR values are missing. EGR can be reduced/lowered within the mapping, however, personally I dont like removing or blocking the EGR off, however this is my opinion as I can see within the mapping what issues can happen and how important it is within the mapping process. The main agument for not having it is basically that it allows the Turbo to spin up more rapidly and doesn't allow so much lag but with a VNT this is compensated for. If you start altering the pressures and temperatures within the exhaust and inlet manifolds you will have running issues. Another thing to consider is the fact that you are in effect modifying the car which will affect your insurance. If you wish to follow this route then why not consider a de-cat as well.

Sounds like you've flipped the seals in the master cylinder even though you've replaced it.

No don't do it! .... blanking it off will change the inlet temperature and you might end up with the same problem.

Sounds really dodgy to me ...one way of off setting the cheap MOTs!

Hiya Dave ...fine here thanks matey. How's you? I see what you mean .....rude if anything!

Dave where did you take it? ...... Funny ol thing .... My lad took his Fiesta yesterday to Furrows in Telford and I checked all the lights yesterday before I came into work. It failed on the N/S rear bulb which had apparently blown! What really annoyed me was the fact they charged him

Many Happy returns Big man and may you have many more! ........ 53 you old git!

This made me giggle ...... New_from_Fisher_Price.bmp

Not what you said earlier JK .... :D

Hi and welcome to the site.