muffking

I'm probably being a little lazy in not trying the main dealer first, but with past experience on here some parts can be available from VW and not Ford. Basically what I want are some of the smaller levers that break of the rear side of the back seats, the one that you use to lift the seat up to remove it rather than using the pull cord under the back of the seat. Are these available from anywhere?

Nailed that fault in one :-) Nice one Chris. I've just traced the pipe along to a plastic elbow on the head and the hose has split where it joins the elbow. I've jubilee cliped it for tonight but will cut it back and rejoin it properly in the week. Magners was it :-D

The missus complained of losing power in the brakes going downhill this week so I drove the car for a while and it seemed fine, but twice when reversing uphill into the driveway I lost the hydraulic brake assist and had to brake hard to get the brakes to work and pumping the brake pedal didn't change it. I've checked the fluid level to see if the slant was allowing air into the resivoir pipe, but the level is plenty high enough and the problem doesn't occur on level roads. Any ideas as I'll be on hills all this coming week so I'm on gaurd.

Job done. I'll PM you my details.

Basically the trial version of the software (in the link) allows you to scan for faults and reset the warning lights, but to do the indepth stuff you need to pay for the licence to activate it. I've just had a PM from gregers expressing his interest. So far he has 1st dibbs if he repies to that effect on here, but keep looking in the meantime and I'll keep the thread up to update to let everyone know when it's sold.

I'm giving first refusal on here for my VAG COM serial lead as used with the RossTech software at http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/download/...elease4091s.exe to clear my airbag light and check & clear other fault codes on my Mk2 Galaxy. This will of course work on all Mk2 variations of Sharan, Alhambra & Galaxy, probably also the the Mk1, but not the new Mk3. First

As the missus is selling her '52 16v Ghia I can't buy this, but it's a steal. See PDF page 23 LOT561. Auction starts March 25th so plenty of time to register for a bargain. https://www.smaleeds.co.uk/dvla/secure/down...dencote-cat.pdf

Just done an underbonnet service on my 2002 Galaxy 2.3, but couldn't find the petrol filter. Any ideas ayone?

I'm selling my Mk2 front bumper parts, grille, fog surrounds + other bits on Ebay as it's free listing weekend. See http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/crazy_fanta

Im after one in dark blue for the n/s/r of my MK2 also :16:

I did listen.. promise :ph34r: Just took a year or so to act on it as it looked like a harder jpb to do than it actually was.

Finally after almost a year & half of living with faulty central locking I finally managed to solve the problem. As the weather was good today I decided to read through all the old posts about central locking not working and despite having already changed the motor in the drivers door and decided to try looking for the control module. I originally thought it was the module under the passengar seat, but after translating the German writing it had via the internet it turned out to be the. The red/white wie had totally parking sensor module, so I stripped the drivers dash area around the fuse box as the information on here suggested that the Mk2's central locking control module is supposed to be inside the drivers lower A-post, no luck there either. My next thought was that as I then had access to the loom that goes through the A post to the drivers door was to try NickP's thoughts about faulty wiring........ and bvgger me I found a broken wire right inside the rubber grommet leading to the door itself. There was a red wire with a white stripe that had a clean cut straight through it. In fact there were at least 3 other wires which had cuts in them, so I soldered a patch wire between the broken one & put it all back together. Now all my doors lock from the remote again & my windows go back up when I turn the key in the door [one very happy muffking] If there is a lesson to be learned here then it is that we should take the the issue of dodgy wiring to the doors more serieously when we have electrical problems. If I'd had believed that this could have been the problem in the first place, then I would have solved this problem over a year ago & saved myself

Nahh! just earth it like one of the others said. I fitted a Panasonic screen/headunit to my other car & earthed it directly to the radio casing so I can use mine when on the move (for sat nav).

Cheers mum :( Does the 6006 play MP3's as that may be the difference.

Can I just take out my 5000 tape headunit and fit any 6000/6006 CD headunit? What's the difference between the 6006 & 6006E BTW?

You can use almost any DOT rating you like if you're flushing the whole system. I can't find any listing in the manual to say what is recommended, but DOT 4 should be fine and is the standard fluid on most suppiers shelves. In fact I had to track down a performance specialist to buy 5.1 and ended up having to buy it from an Impreza tuning garage.

ok, it's

The Wizards of NOS sell a HT testing gadget for a fiver. It simply plugs in to the end a HT lead and you touch the engine casing when it's turning over to see how far the spark jumps. If one sparks doesn't jump as well as the others then it has a faulty coil. I have one of these and used it to prove a coil pack fault of 2 v6 vauxhalls where access was poor and the tool made life much easier.

I've not been on for a while so I'm catching up with a few posts & updating my profile while i'm on here, but the missus wants her car servicing 'cos it's a minter and I'm to tight to take it to a main dealer, so a freind of a friend type mechanic is going to fit it between jobs in his garage & charge me half the labour which I see as worth the money for the service stamp alone. What I need to know is what parts to buy in advance. So far I've thought I should buy the oil filter (plus 5w-30 grade oil?), petrol filter, air filter, pollen filter (if it looks dirty). I could do the lot myself but she wants the stamp, so the things I've already done are a coolant flush with antifreeze mix & front wiper blades. But other than check the levels & the way the car dives that's it really.

Same here. I always work from the caliper furthest from the master cylinder to the nearest. Them Gunsons kits are very good BTW. The last time I used mine was on my sporty daily runner to upgrade the fluid to DOT 5.1 for a track day which made a huge difference in reducing brake fade as it turns out that old brake fluid ends up with gas bubbles especially if it's been cooked before, and bubbles in the fluid defeat the point of a hydraulic brake system as the gas compresses more than the liquid giving a spongey brake pedal and less effective brakes.

It shouldn't have come on simply by disconnecting the battery unless it sparked when the reconnected it, in which case it's the garages problem, but the airbag light needs resetting via the diagnostic port either by the dealer or by VAG-COM. I had to do mine after I removed the clocks to fit the sat nav speedo wire, but it may be worth you posting your location in case someone on here near you has VAG-COM.

Just had an interesting read of the owners manual regarding the weights of the car and load ratings of the tyres. The standard tyres have a load rating of between 93-97 depending on the model, which based on the load chart at http://www.etyres.co.uk/glossary-tyre-terms?term=load-rating equates to 650Kg-730Kg. The Owners manual states that the axle load for the 2.3 Petrol is 1210Kg on the front and 1280 on the rear, whech means 605Kg per corner on the fronts and 640Kg on each rear wheel. Unfortunately for me, my 235/40/18"s have a load rating of 91Y, or 615Kg according to the chart, which means that they are ok for the front, but 25Kg to lightweight for the rears. Have I got my maths right or can I fit them anyway and save me from having to buy some different tyres?

Hi guys My '52 plate petrol Galaxy is due for it's 4th year service within the next few weeks at 28,000 miles ;) . Fortunately when I bought it I got free servicing for life at the selling dealer, the last one being it's 3rd year major service. Now I expect this to only cover the labour? so what parts will I have to pay for?

Cheers guys. I think the Dunlop site just shows what tyre size you can upgrade to while retaining the same rolling radius, but I'm looking to increase the rolling radius in order to fill a little more arch. It's interesteing to see Ford going to a 45% wall on 235mm tyres though, although my wheels are 7.5" wide which is supposed to take 225 with the absolute maximum being 235. I guess I just have to find a set, but wondered what any other 18" Mk1/2 owners had.

I've got standard 16"s on my Mk2 Ghia but went out and bought myself a lovely set of 18"s. The correct tyre size if using these on a normal car is 225/40/18 but I'm thinking of upping the wall size to 225/45/18 although this makes the diameter 1.6" taller, filling the arches a little more without going OTT. I'm aware of the speedo difference, but what size tyres do any of you 18" guys run ?