BrianH

Locks aren't sided - I've swapped mine over on the previous attempt to fix mine without that being a problem (I think my drivers door catch is the major cause of the problem I've got).

Probabbly worth checking the scuttle drain behind the wheel arch liner. Theres info on doing so in the faq section. If the water isn't escaping as its intended to then it tends to find its way elsewhere. If it is blocked unblocking it would be your first task. Once your happy its unblocked it may be worth sealing any gap you can see still there (the trouble with sealing it first is you don't know why the water is ending up where it is and your only likly to relocate the problem elsewhere!)

Might be worth a look at this topic > [post=http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25136-universal-remote-central-locking/?hl=locking]http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25136-universal-remote-central-locking/?hl=locking[/post] I'm waiting for the weather to warm up to try it out on mine

I've repaired the wires to fix problems previously. not replaced the gaiter as didn't need to, but otherwise as viperclive says. Alternatively buy some from any motor factors just make sure its the same size. The advantage to using Clive's method would be you would have the right colours there. Gaiters will be either from a scrapyard or ebay etc used or dealers new as said by others previously. They will doubtless be expensive if you can still get them from ford (i've had issues getting some parts from them previously for mine).

On the flashing hazard lights when going along i've had this before on a mondeo it was the bonnet alarm switch on that (common problem on them) which would make poor contact and cause the alarm to go into self test mode. It may not be that exact fault but you must have some sort of short circuit introduced or an exposed/broken wire still. When you did the door pillar wiring did you replace the wire as detailed in the instructions or did you just rejoin it? It could be that the wire has got bits of missing insulation (the red one on mine was flaking off around where it had broken) or you may have had other wires which were already weak and came off as you were fixing the other ones. Either way if these faults appeared after you repaired the wire then it would seem to suggest the likly place to be looking is the wiring itself and the general area you were working in. Edit just noticed in your reply - the broken insulation isn't good. You really need to replace the wires as detailed in the instructions as particually once they break they are already in a weakened state. You will only get more trouble with them if you try just to rejoin them (theres a good chance one has already broken as the extra size of the terminal block will only add to the stress on it). And yes the same size cable on each one as it currently uses. If you use thin cable on the red/brown wires they will almost certainly melt after a time causing far more problems. Just match the wires to the colour at the other end and rejoin as detailed in the faq section (soldering is the specified method if if remember correctly).

You can attach them on your reply - scroll down. for some reason that doesn't work for me though so I just use photobucket and post the link here (its free, signup for an account and upload your photo then use the last option to get the links that have IMG tags and just paste them into the reply here).

its likly to be a faulty switch - I'd start by trying to operate the passenger door one a few times in both directions just in case its decided to play up (put the key in and operate the lock from outside). If this doesn't clear it then I'd consider unplugging the switches on whichever door you think the culprit is (the drivers would be where i'd start looking inside the gaiter for a broken wire - its possible something is shorting out and the drivers door is the likly cause as its most used followed by the boot gaiter listed above). If none of these seem to solve the problem its possible to unplug the microswitch as its on a seperate connection but involves taking the door card off to do so (check the wires first its easier!) just reread your post - the dimly lit boot adjar light would sound like one of your repaired wires isn't making good contact. Its possible you have more than 1 break in a wire and one of those breaks could account for the dimly lit light, Its recommended on here to splice in new wires rather than rejoining where you can see they are broken so i'd start by doing that first. If you want to isolate the problem to a particular door you can unplug the door from the pillar by removing the multiplug (it twists apart to seperate - if you leave the car with the door unplugged this should tell you which one the problem is with.

Can anyone confirm what connections should be seen on a good airbag slip ring? Its the ribbon cable/yellow connections i'm interested in (I only seem to have a connection on one side of the cable on my replacment one which also doesn't seem to work even after resetting error it comes straight back). I'd expect to see a connection on each side of the cable (ie 2 seperate connections) but even taking the back off the plug to check past the coil assembly inside the plug seems to show nothing (and i'm fairly sure its the spring as i've tried with a resistor in the plug at the airbag end which won't clear the error but it does when I put that resistor in the car loom plug proving i think that the slip ring is at fault). Thanks PS its a MK1 2.0 aspen petrol if thats relevent.

Couldn't attach them on here for some reason - they upload but script locks up at the end. http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a630/Brianh99/2_zps6aa63577.jpg http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a630/Brianh99/1_zpse0aa2bc0.jpg

These any help? Mk1 Apsen R plate. Ignore the scotchlock its in there for the aerial.

Its not entriely clear from your post if the car actually starts? If it doesn't and odd behavour of that led is the only symptom then its probabbly a relay 30 issue. That led has something to do with the immobiliser system as far as i can tell and the only time i noticed mine was when it decided to not start which thanks to posts here I discovered was down to bad joints in the relay 30 in the fusebox.

Odd - Does it still work when you press it though? (you don't want to discover it doesn't work when you actually need it to work). Maybe a stuck switch? Either way it looks like you know its definitely the horn rather than the alarm

Would probabbly have to be a ford dealer bit. I've swapped one on a mondeo where it had rotted through to produce a large hole in the underside of it. If its similar to that a used one generally won't stay on once its got old and hard it falls off too easily. Not sure if you could get one from VW as your other post suggests you have a 2.3l engine and this part may be different as thats the ford engine you have rather than vw ones.

If you have a look at this topic theres a link to the fuse layout on mirez there http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25138-mk11-fuse-box-layout-and-ratings/?hl=fuses This lists fuse 6 and fuse 3 for the horn. you might be able to narrow down which horn it is by pulling these fuses out in turn and checking if it stops. Since its continous i'd think its the horn rather than the alarm one. So i'd start investigating the horn push on the wheel first and the slip ring if that appears to be ok (both of these are closely linked to the airbag topic on the faq section so i'd look at that before doing anything more). Usually the switch supplys the power to the horn (i'm fairly sure it does as theres only 2 feeds going through the slip ring) so i'd expect your problem is the switch has become stuck down or shorted - it may be worth pressing the various bits of the horn switch to make sure they aren't stuck first.

Looking now the colours don't quite match so hard to say for sure. It could be that they have changed the wire colour though. It would be worth checking where they join the loom if its as described above it may be a good place to start.

Does yours have anything besides the airbag and the horn on the wheel (stereo controls etc?) If so it may be a different connector/slip ring you require. Mine is an aspen 2.0l so doesn't have any of the extras. Photo of mine attached - i think you are right the car harness wires seem to be missing but yours also seem to be different to mine. The connector to the harness joins the two feeds to the indicator and wiper stalks underneath on mine. Possibly also worth a look at http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/13785-trip-computer/&do=findComment&comment=112375 from the faq section as its got some info.

Certainly the same as mine - you should have a yellow connector on the back of the slip ring to go onto it - look for something like the one on the connector on ebay item 181053499999 (I've got the airbag light issue which is hopefully down to a broken slip ring as its listed as an intermittent connection - I've got the slip ring but haven't got round to fitting it yet).

Found some of my original problem - I went to change the plugs and discovered I actually had bosch plugs fitted although they are iridium ones not platinum at least. I think the problem lies with the leads i replaced previously to try and solve this problem as the 2nd lead was full of white powdery deposits at the plug end. So it looks like my issue is probabbly with the leads rather than anything else. Good to know your getting on ok with the standard plugs though i think i'm going to stick with NGK ones in future as a few seem to slate the bosch plugs when being used with lpg for some reason. Thanks

Hi All Just a simple question to start with which I have searched the forums for but can't seem to find an answer to. Does anyone here have a MK1 2.0l petrol Galaxy which has been converted to lpg and if so which spark plugs are they using for it? (I can seem to find 3 possiblities from NGK and trying to identify if the problem i have with it running badly on gas is down to the plugs). Originally fitted were BKR7EVX (theres a new set of these now fitted). I think these are platinum plugs as far as i can tell I gather you can alternatively use BKR7EIX - iridium as far as i can tell or LPG1 plugs from NGK What i'm really after is if anyone who has used the lpg1 plugs if they proved any better than the other 2? (I don't know if the converters recommended different plugs as i got the car already converted). Thanks

I doubt it as the coils provide the spark to run the engine so if there was a fault there it most likly wouldn't start. You really need to get the diagnostics looked at as it will tell you far more information than just guessing based on the symptoms your seeing. Some errors such as airbag errors won't reset automatically they have to be manually reset and the only way to do this is with the software so i'd start there frist.

You don't mention which version of the Galaxy you have. If its the Mk1 then it tends to be the back end of the assembly that collapses from what i've seen rather than the barrel itself. You release the barrel by pushing the key into it (this retracts the various tumblers inside allowing you to turn it) then with the back of the barrel removed push it down and twist and you are able to remove it from the handle itself. If its just the back section there are lock repair kits available which should fix the problem on ebay. if you need the actual handle etc you may get away with swapping the tumblers from the old to the new barrel if they are still ok. I looked at this with mine and came to the conclusion that one of the remote locking kits available was a good idea, just haven't got round to fitting it just yet.

http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/reference-library/mk2-galaxy-instrument-cluster-signs-and-meanings/ It seems its detecting a problem with the esp system of some description (at least that light matches your description) . I would guess you can get some more information by using VCDS Lite with a suitable cable if your vehicle is compatible with it as to what the problem actually is. (there is info on the forum here about that > http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22727-power-loss/page__p__174873__hl__diagnostics#entry174873 your looking for the post by chrispb123456)