BrianH

Not done it on the galaxy but have replaced switches in the keyfob on a couple of cars to fix this problem. They seem to wear out over time. fairly easy if you can use a soldering iron. Can't find one specifically for the galaxy but sharan is listed here - although you don't really want 100 of the switches! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-MICRO-SWITCHES-BATTERY-FOR-GOLF-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-VW-SHARAN-3-BUTTON-REMOT-/300842392836?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item460b9a9d04

You might be able to sort your radio code with some luck, Given the age of the car theres a good chance someone has had to enter it before if the battery has been removed for any reason. The usual place if the card with the code can't be found and someone has had to look it up before is to check the serial number sticker. If someone has looked it up previously then it may be written there..... if not then at least you have the serial number which you will need to find the code anyway. There is/was a program available from various sources a while back which would tell you the code from the serial number.

I'd guess nothing so the first you'd know would be when someone told you or ran into the back of you? Guess it depends if it uses the same switch as well as it may not be able to detect it in the same way as the diesel ones.

The glow plug light flashing is a common issue with the brake pedal switch (why on earth they chose that is anyones guess). looks like you have found another possible cause this time though.

Its not an age related thing - although the tyres you have I wouldn't expect to cause the problem, It may be worth getting the wheel alignment looked at specifically if there is any unusual wear of the tyres - If your considering the track rod ends inner or outer then you'd obviously want to get it checked afterwards anyway. I've known worn wishbone bushes to cause dreadful handling and noise due to them throwing the alignment off although when i've had this on other cars the front end tends to feel lighter than it should.

There has been other posts with wierd problems like this that seem to relate to certain tyres. Whilst the tyres may be in good condition it seems down to the tread pattern that can cause this. What tyres are you using? Make and type?

I'm fairly sure they don't. Don't think there is any non-European models of the galaxy its usually the ones built for the Japanese market that have them the other way round.

Any beeping or weird behavior with the led on the drivers door? If there is have a look at the relay 30 threads (if it is this you may be able to fix with a soldering iron) I don't think you should have any problems requiring fuel priming so may be just coincidence? Sure it ran out to cause the problem in the first place?

Have a look at the wiring to the sensor is only other thing you can do really.

I can't remeber now i think about it if mine flashed when empty or stayed lit. I think it was flashing. It shouldn't run out of water though - if the level is dropping its being lost somewhere and you really need to find where that is. I'd hazard a guess if you can't see it that its likly to be the heater - can you smell anything when using the heater on the hot setting? Like I said above I "Fixed" mine with radweld (not really fixed just bodged until I can get round to actually getting to it to fix it). I was recommended to try K-seal (similar product to radweld) on the logic that it was worth a try to avoid having to remove the matrix. And that light doesn't show any error code from what i remember. Doubt that you will need to change the sensor more likly its either stuck somehow or not connected properly as chris mentioned above. Maybe your dashboard is different to mine, or maybe my memory is getting worse. The car is 130 miles away at the moment so I can't even look to check!

If the box is low on fluid it will play up usually quite randomly as the fluid shifts around the system. I wouldn't be too sure if you will damage it either running it for extended periods like that. I'd look at whats been advised above then investigate the amount and condition of the fluid.

the airbag fault isn't an obd fault - its not looking at the airbag module (i'd suspect that one can't do so). The other fault (the flashing temp light) may not be seen as a fault. You will need vcds access and yes as you said above using ross tech drivers won't work unless its a Ross tech interface (If its an ebay lead then it probably isn't a Ross tech interface) Is it the red light above the gague? only time i've had that come on was when the water bottle was empty (I have had issues with heater matrix leaking or at least i assume thats what was leaking as couldn't find any sign of a leak. Stopped mine with radweld eventually). The diagnostics aren't perfect anyway they can miss things being faulty but are a good place to start. Theres a float switch on the actual expansion bottle - i'd start looking there for the temp light if its that one.

oh and don't use vag com use vcds lite from http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/ (its the newer version of the software). Still use the drivers from the disc that came with your cable though

You need a vag com lead for yours for the airbag and the normal obd reader for the other fault. i've got a 98 2.0 petrol and the engine bits being ford won't talk to vcds but airbag etc does. I found airbag to be particularly picky to talk to, you have to have the ignition on first as well.It may be worth changing the port thats being used by the cable in device manger and then changing vcds to suit (some ports may not work due to whats already on the system in the way of built in serial ports or usb devices). I'd try setting it to com2 first. the cable i got was marked KKL Vag-com for 409.1 The reader you show above in your link should see the engine faults though.

01189 front air distribution flap motor (v145) 01271 positioning motor for temp flap (v68) sporadic 009 open or short to ground These sound like the heater to me - I'd guess that turning the dials doesn't operate as it should if they are still coming up? Could be old errors though would see if they return before doing anything further. 00926 terminal 30 sporadic 002 lower limit exceeded This is probably the battery being a bit past its best - see this post. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24903-need-advice-from-diagnostic-report/page-2?hl=%2B00926+%2Bterminal&do=findComment&comment=175877 01135 interior monitoring sensors static no define This might be to do with the battery. It sounds alarm related to me.

Theres usually a temperature sensor in the intake which would normally be in the same area, not sure if the diesel has it or not though. If its something like that i'd expect vcds to be reporting a sensor error though? how many pins in the connector?

I'd look at the connections to your fuel injectors. Its possible ones failed although unlikly. More possible that its not plugged in correctly or damage to the connector. You should also find that it is able to report error codes, even given its older than the requirments to do so. If theres none reported/found It suggests it hasn't detected anything wrong (which isn't unusual)

Sounds like you have got a good result there. Not sure on the remote keyfob you might be able to swap bits around to make it work. Your manual might give more info on this otherwise have a look round on the forum there should be some info here on doing that if its possible (I don't have remote locking so not sure what the keys are like for it).

I've known a diesel engine run (albeit very badly) with the timing on the pump out by 180 degrees. Smoked like anything and little power but it did keep running. Glowplugs do vary how long they stay switched on for depending on temperature so I wouldn't think anything too much of the difference in time on starting attempts. Unfortunately the possibly substandard parts are available from anywhere - some of the pattern parts are fine, others may not be and the only way you find this is by trying them.

For the engine yes you need the obd cable. For the gearbox (automatic) its VAG built so you should be able to get somewhere with that as long as the lead works. Wouldn't bother with the autoscan. Vcds definitely talks to some other modules on my 2.0 (non auto) so do you get anything on any modules? (airbags for example) If not then something is wrong with the cable - wrong com port possibly? Its useful to have the cable either way if you have one of these as things like airbag errors require them to clear the light after you have fixed the error (or to find what particular part is causing problem). Probabbly a good call on the cost of the fluid though. Time will tell I guess.

Looks like p0725 is "engine speed input circuit malfunction" - i see you have changed the crank sensor does the fault still come up? if so i'd look at the wiring to it bearing in mind that you say its a accident damaged car. The crank sensor not working correctly would stop it from starting. Not sure on the other error but by the number I would expect its something less critical to starting the engine (the only things i can find seem to point to a gearbox error. - see this link http://www.justanswer.com/uk-ford/6suyv-ford-galaxy-ford-galaxy-07-2-0-tdci-auto-approx.html You would probably get more luck posting in the MKIII forum though than here.

head gasket could have blown to the extent of letting oil get into the combustion chamber area which would cause the blue smoke. Might also account for the lack of pressure being indicated. I'd suggest not using it until you find out what it is as you could risk killing the engine and/or the cat if its leaking that badly. Obviously overheating it isn't going to help. Just a thought on the original problem - are you sure the radiator isn't blocked? it would explain the water circulation issues (and if your intending fixing the other things mentioned above would be a good idea to flush it anyway to ensure you don't still have problems).

If your looking for any error codes which may or may not be there it would be cheaper to buy a vag-com cable (less than a tenner off ebay) and download vcds-lite from ross tech and have a look yourself. It would also mean you have the cable for any other faults that might crop up. Alternatively if you go through that other thread i posted the link to theres some info on checking the gearbox fluid yourself. You might also find some of the faults/errors picked up could be down to lack of fluid rather than any particular sensor fault so may not even find an error code (or if you do it may not be resolved by replacing the part referred to).

Try changing the plugs on the 2.0l - You can't see them properly and have to come from the back of the engine!

Lpg does tend to kill them from what i've seen generally. Out of interest are yours the 2.3 type where they sit ontop of the plug or the ones that sit on the end of the engine with leads? (the 2.0 ones i gather). I'm still having issues with what i think is ignition problems and getting to thinking of just changing the plugs leads and packs to try and rule out any of them causing issues but trying to find somewhere with reasonable quality ones that actually match - Alot of the pictures i can find of ones i can buy online are completely wrong showing a 4 port single unit whereas i have two double port units.