BrianH

Broken wires in the door gaiter (almost certainly the boot one for starters, poss drivers door as well)

I got one from this website (I think!) when I needed one > http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-1005884-cable-control/ They do however list it at two prices so it might be an idea to either email or phone them before you purchase to check. You don't mention if its an auto or manual, or a mk1 or mk2 though, so that may not be the right number - Assuming as your in Belfast that its at least a RHD one, then your options are as follows 1005884 - MK1 2.3l RHD Manual Transmission (also for the mk2 upto March 2003) 1016860 - MK1 2.3l RHD Auto Transmission (also for the mk2 with AG4 Transmission up to March 2003) After 2003 the part number changes, but that shouldn't be relevant to you. I know when i asked in the motor factors they looked at me like I was crazy asking for a throttle cable for a 1997 vehicle so its doubtful you will get any luck there. Second hand is an option though as they don't tend to go wrong.

Don't know for definite on the diesels, but the petrol's have 2 separate sensors for it. Both on thermostat housing. Easiest way to check is to unplug one of them and see what happens - if you have both affected by doing so you know it does. AFAIK its normal for the diesels to run cold without the aux heater working - Bear in mind there is a lot of coolant in these (approx 9 litres). Plus the diesel doesn't generate as much wasted heat, thats part of the reason for the booster heater in the first place. Your first port of call is to get that run-on pump working properly. I'd suspect you'd then just be left with the glowplug issue to sort out on the heater (your other post)

It helps to take the scuttle panel out - I found you could top up with a small bottle, but you can't really see the level at the same time. Good to know you got it sorted though.

I suspect you have either a mk1 or mk2 not a mk3 by the engine listed. Belt routing is easily got wrong on them, it should be like the one shown in this post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/13234-aux-belt-diagram/ If the pulley is smooth then the flat side of the belt should touch it, ribbed would be facing the ribbed side as you'd expect. But it is possible to get it to go on in such a way that it fits, but won't work correctly (obvious as you find what you have found already). Its a tight fit when it does go on though - only a few mm to spare, A decent 15mm spanner on the tensioner pulley helps.

Depends what state the nut is in - A brake spanner is not a bad idea at all as it gives you a bit more grip. The state of the pipe behind doesn't look good, so if you don't have any way of getting to a parts shop once you start pulling it apart I'd get something like these bits together if you can https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-BRAKE-PIPE-KIT-FLARING-AND-CUTTING-TOOL-3-16-OD-COPPER-PIPE-20-NUTS/222799926307 That way worst case scenearo you have the bits to take it further back up - If i remember rightly there is a second flexi hose further up the pipework, the one you have in the photo looks past its best to me so it might be worth seeing if you can replace it back to that point (you just bend that hose I've posted to shape and flare the ends to get a seal on it). If you've got access to bits probably not so much of a concern, just depends what happens when you start taking it apart (or trying to get it to come apart)

With no fault codes your stabbing in the dark somewhat - I've known EGR to give problems on diesels, but I've not got a Diesel Galaxy to advise, you might get someone else with some useful input on the problem though.

Your original one looks in an awful state - it should just unscrew, but looking at it I'd replace it like you have done. You haven't really got much option for stopping air getting in - Jacking the car up on the rear end may help a bit, but you will need to bleed it at any rate, so wouldn't panic too much about it. Personally if i'm replacing any brake bits like that its new flexi hose at the same time and an opportunity to swap the brake fluid at the same time anyway, best not to let the reservoir completely empty, run it down and then top up with fresh fluid, pump through and bleed and repeat until you get clean fluid and no bubbles out of it. Much easier with someone to help at the brake end. Suggest you assemble the new hole and caliper first, then remove the old one, get the new one ready to fit and then swap them over. Given you have a new flexi to go on, take the old caliper off first (you can leave it on the flexi hose at this point, just use a cable tie to hold the caliper out of the way somewhere whilst you undo the hose). It can also help to give the joint a good soaking with wd40/gt85 or similar before you get too far into it.

Thats what its supposed to do. My mk2 2.3 does the same, as long as you mean the numbers themselves (the rest of the display including the backlight does go off)

You need to find out what fault codes are being generated - Limp mode has a number of possible causes. A cheap OBD reader should be enough for that. Like this for example (the even cheaper ones will at least read the codes, but may not give you a meaning in english, just a code number) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fault-Engine-Diagnostic-Scanner-Code-Reader-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD-UK/272713992050 You have a MK3 BTW, so your in the wrong section of the forum, but once you know what codes are being generated you should be able to search for them on here or elsewhere, to give you an idea what the problem is so you know what to look at.

Doubtful they are any different with any of the badges - they all came out of the same factory after all. Might just be that yours has lived near the sea or been used a lot on salty roads and not washed? Think your probabbly down to trying to find better ones off one being broken up, not aware of them being available as a new part.

I'd have a look at your vapouriser - the vacuum line will just pull off (no clips required). I would guess when you have pulled it off you may find that its leaking gas out of there. In which case the vapouriser diaphram has a hole in it. Its possible for the injectors to gum up though i'd suspect you'd notice rough running like that. Checking it into somewhere to get the lpg checked over not a bad idea long as your sure its that, provided you can find somewhere who knows what they are doing. If its getting on somewhat you can find some electrical issues with the older kit (some have a feed from the lambda sensor and I've had one that started putting .32 of a volt down that connection and screwing up the fuel trims as a result, though the feed isn't really needed so can be disconnected, its just there for tuning purposes) MAF sensors on the petrol I've never found much difference when you unplug them, just when they go faulty that you notice the car running richer than it should (smelly exhaust).

Microcat shows 7203354 as being the only sensor fitted to the manual gearbox on a mk1, any engine. I'd try unplugging it if you can first? It unscrews from the gearbox, hasn't worked its way loose has it (does the speedo work??) If your anywhere near me I can find the one off the MK1 gearbox I've got in the workshop if you want to try, have a suspicion your in Yorkshire though? (Milton Keynes here) I did have the same problem with my mk1 - It was down to the boot on the end of the cable not wanting to stay on the throttle body stub causing it to pull on the cable. I was going to swap the throttle cable to fix it, but temporally bodged it with a cable tie (round the bottom end of the boot and push it onto the stub bit so its in the correct position). That worked fine for the last few months of the car's life only coming off once (when i was under the bonnet for some other reason and knocked it off again anyway). It did tend to be a bit intermittent, but mostly caused it to rev too fast when parking up more than any other time or idling. Vacuum leak might cause it? beyond the usual pipes that split on the galaxy (the one to the brake servo etc) have you checked the one that runs between the vapouriser and wherever it joins the manifold? Both to see if its leaking air, or if the vapouriser is leaking gas? (even with it switched to petrol the gas in the vapouriser will still have enough pressure to allow it to leak until it equalises if the vapouriser is leaking, which does happen and can take a few minutes to equalise).

They are ok for cheap brakes, but not brilliant, You might find they squeal a bit. The front discs i tend to find are the more critical ones as they do more of the work, and are more likely to warp over time than the rears. You will need a suitable wind back tool for them - you have to turn the piston to get it to go back in (not just try and force it back). Otherwise mostly the same as the front just with the addition of the handbrake cable.

I think you will find a spade connector (Like this > https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foxnovo-Connector-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical/dp/B01IN9QQBQ/ref=sr_1_7 ) should fit in place of the fuse, and allow you to probe safely with a multimeter. But if the rear hatch is full of broken wires fix that first as you might not need to mess further with it then This bag of horrors was what the one on my MK1 was like when I first pulled it apart - The bodgery was someone elses work. Was a case of starting again there with the whole loom through the door.

If it matches this photo > https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/galaxy-auxiliary-drive-belt-routing-(mk2-tdi)/ Then no the water pump isn't driven off it. That should also tell you what each pulley is provided its the right one for your engine (never looked at the diesels to tell you). The petrol water pump (or at least the 2.0 one) is driven off that belt, as I lost that at the same time as the alternator when the idler pulley decided it had had enough on the way back from an MOT. Might be worth taking the pulley off to see if there is damage to it, if you have something else seized then it may just be bits of burnt belt that have got stuck to it and might clean off? Did the Air con actually work prior to this?

Think you'd find it impossible to colour match to the original wires - long as the bits either end of your new bit are the right colour then your heading in the right direction! Broken wires in these don't usually blow fuses so it may be that you have a dud lock motor mechanism - Would suggest checking the current drawn across the fuse with a multimeter and if it looks suspect then unplugging the doors one at a time from the connector may help to narrow it down. Not sure without looking, but you may find the hazards and indicator feeds aren't on the same fuse, so you may still have working indicators?

The clutch on the 2.0 isn't particually big - I'd suspect you'd shorten its life somewhat by using it to assist with engine braking anyway. Don't know of the reasoning for it - I know the Focus i've got does the same thing with cutting injector pulses on overrun though offhand don't know the rev range it does it at. Only thing i can see you could do is investigate remapping to see if it can be altered, though would expect you to gain engine braking with no fuel going in anyway?

Just reread your post - I'd remove that fuse you replaced and see if it stops the alarm if you haven't already tried that. It sounds like the car is seeing one of the front doors fail to lock - Its either the wiring in the gaiter or a failed lock causing that to happen. It won't be a rear door causing that (i had that on the mk1 where it would not stay locked without pulling the central locking fuse though they all moved, that was the boot gaiter in that case though i found wires in a poor state in every door except the passenger front) Also insulation tape over the breaks may be enough to shut the alarm up for now (at least it will stop them shorting out)

I think i was able to pull fuse 19 (this was on a mk1 petrol though) and stop the central locking doing anything by doing so. No alarm on that one but would think its worth a try. Incidentally if you have just resoldered the original wires together there is a good chance they will break again - Soldering in a new piece of wire (with as little joined inside the gaiter as possible) is the best way to go. Don't rule out the boot gaiter as those are the worst for breaking due to the angles involved, and cause all manner of odd problems there. Final thing - if you sit inside the car if one door doesn't trigger on locking then manually locking that door (key from outside if its a front door) may be enough to get it to behave. Alternatively disconnect the negative from the battery will stop the alarm, make sure the car isn't deadlocked when you do it though. (best to do this when its unlocked, then lock manually afterwards)

could be leaking from the turbo among other places. I wouldn't worry about it unless its a lot it tends to be the case on diesels that there is at least some in there. I'm on my second petrol one now - Incidentally I've had to pull out relay 30 (same issue for the petrols as your 109 on the diesels) as it has now cut out on me 4 times in the last two weeks, won't start at that point either (doesn't crank over) then suddenly comes back after a few minutes. Had similar issues on the mk1 which I brought in that state though that just wouldn't start never cut out when running. It took me about 20 minutes to pull the fusebox out and drop it down, find the relay and pull the cover off it to see the joints. Actually took me longer to find a soldering iron than anything else! Its worth noting that if that relay is causing the problem the diagnostics will not connect at that point if you have access to them, another clue to the problem! I'd suggest you pull the fusebox apart and try resoldering the relay as a first step - worth noting you may see it as relay 601 as its mounted upside down when its in the box. Won't cost anything other than the time and effort to get it out and back in again. Even if you have to replace it they can be found from ford etc for about £35, i did get my original spare from GSF for around a tenner using the number printed on the relay to find it.

If they have worn unevenly this can be down to tyres that aren't really upto the job rather than anything more serious - Branded ones of the right rating i found last far longer than no-name ones of the right rating. And underrated tyres are worse still (though handling is noticeably worse on those too). I'd guess someone needed to get somewhere and your keys were found! At least you got it back though.

its not tapatalk its the forum software, its not working properly and hasn't been for a few months now. I'd suspect (but don't know for sure as haven't done it) that if you have the wheels supported (eg car on a lift/over a pit/up on ramps) that you might find it easier taking the ARB links apart. Rather than the wheels suspended (eg car up on a jack or axle stands). Best bet is to loosen them slightly and observe what happens (if they will move of course). I think theres a topic about changing the links in the faq section, that might be worth a read?

Look at the led on the drivers door - if its flashing rapidly when the car will not start then yes relay 109 is your likely cause. If you know someone who can use a soldering iron you will probably be able to fix the relay already there, the solder joints on them go dry, resoldering the joints should be enough to fix it. Otherwise they aren't particularly expensive at least to replace.

Soldering the original wires where they flex as you've found is a waste of time as they will just break again elsewhere - As the solder stops that section of the wire bending etc. And the original wiring is not good at any rate either so the insulation breaks off from it far easier than it should do. As far as the boot goes, the original part would only be available with the loom as you can't remove it without cutting the wires. Your best bet would be to either goto a scrapyard to find one, or find one someone is breaking up to remove it from. You'd have to cut and rejoin all the wires though to get it on.