xavier

Just an idea but might be worthwhile phoning up your local fast fit exhaust place and asking if they would do the innotec treatment for you. However this is only worth it if it is the vanes sticking (which would put the car into limp mode) rather than something else.

I suspect no one has tried. There is a cluster from a 2.3 auto MkII on ebay at the moment for 66 quid, on a BIN. Might be better than all the faffing your doing, and you could re-sell the 1.9 one you have?

So does the key actually move? I once had a car did this and changed the fuel filter. However if you're definately sure there's no spark not going to be that. Immobiliser maybe? If keys have been checked maybe the corresponding unit in the steering column, or a broken wire from it? Sorry, clutching at straws (ideas?!) myself.

A couple of ideas, if you have a lap-top get a cable and VCDS. Faults can be logged in the ecu but without the engine management light flashing. What engine do you have? if it's the 1.9 TDI I'd actually suggest calling some local VW specialist garages and describe the problem, they might be more knowledgeable than Ford. Also when you say it gets better during the day, is it better when hot, or is it ok for the rest of the day even if allowed to cool right down? And have you checked the fluid levels to see if anything's dropping?

Amazing how often the codes are written on them, I've had 2 cars that needed radio codes and both times they were written on them!

When I replaced a faulty sensor, the light stayed on after replacing but after driving 20 meters or so went out. By the way, you should be able to buy a replacement reductor ring itself, you shouldn't need to replace the driveshaft.

Would certainly never describe mine as sluggish, plenty of low down torque. Can easily accelerate up to petrol cars struggling on a big hill near where I live, which even our 1.8 focus can struggle with.

Good you changed it when you did then, I know what you mean about MOT stuff, I fixed the n/s ABS sensor for the MOT now the offside's gone.

Probably. It's a common problem. There's an excellent thread on strip down and de-coke in the FAQ (one of the first couple of sticky posts in the technical section). If you have a look down through some previous posts there's also info on using innotec to clean and free up the VNT mechanism, I did this and it freed off a completely siezed VNT mechanism, it's not great but was dropping into limp mode at 2200 RPM on steep hills, it's now back to dropping into limp if I really boot it.

so had the seals gone in the old ones? play in the bearings? I think mine's ok, but like most of them the VNT mech needs stripped down and cleaned. Other than that I think it's fine. Just out of curiosity, how much did the scrap turbo cost you?

well when mine goes into limp, I can't get to 70, I'm limited to 55-60 and it really struggles on slopes (think 45!). Good you changed the turbo though, if it really went could've been nasty. new oil pipe is a good thing but didn't realise they were that expensive! Least you're back on the road anyway.

3000-3500 RPM are fine, probably a good way of cleaning all the rubbish out of the system. Sitting in 5th I take it, mine seems to start to get a bit warm if I go up to sixth. I've towed a 4 berth swift mtlm of 1480 a couple of times, went fine.

Geez £68! did you try VW? The refurb turbo ads on ebay tell you to replace the oil feed pipe and claim it's £30 from Frauds.

> Turns out my oil feed pipe has also split It'll have split during the turbo removal. Damn difficult to get them off intact. Good to hear you're back on the road. New oil pipe should also stop the new turbo going the same way as the old. How was the old one when you removed it, had it gone or did it look ok? They're worth money even faulty so don't just bin it. Can you describe exactly the symptoms you're now getting? When do you get limp mode, is it exactly the same as before or higher revs, longer time?

Surprised you're having issues towing with the 115, how heavy is your outfit? I've towed a couple of times with my old gal and she's coped fine (actually seemed to run better after it, think the run cleaned up the turbo!)

the wires in the sensor units corrode and swell, pushing the sensor tips towards the ring, contacting them then bending them (and ultimately bending so far a reading can't be taken). I'd say they are a common fault.

Have a look at it when it comes off (remember to cover the oil pathways, don't want anything falling in there). check for play in the bearing and any marks on the intake. you might find it's ok and just needs a clean.

I'd still have a go at freeing up the turbo (or at least check if the vnt mech is siezed).

I innotec'd mine. It didn't cure it completly but helped. Previously it'd only limp if I went to high revs, then started limping when above 2.2K. Also noticed it a lot smellier when starting and fuel econ was way down. Anyway, what I'd suggest is remove the undertray so you can get a 14mm spanner on the actuator arm of the turbo and see if you can move it. Mine was siezed solid. The innotec freed it up and got it working again, not great and it really needs a clean (and probably could do with things like oil pipe getting replaced) but gave me some time. Going to see how much a mobile mech would charge to remove then refit the turbo for me, I'll try cleaning it myself though.

Euro car parts appear to have 20% of all parts at the moment (use code from front page). Also Halfords have 20% off their own brand PD oil.

Just so I'm clear, how frequently should the oil / oil filter be changed on the mk2 1.9?

was there not a recent post by a guy who had to start his car on sniff on a daily basis, once it'd been started it was fine for the rest of the day? Did it not turn out to be an issue with the fuel pump?

I've had a siezed handbrake mech recently, so I'd suggest you oil the handbrake mechanism (I used 3 in 1) on the caliper and see if that helps.

Problem is big dave they're all like that. trying to find a decent garage is nigh impossible, this one knows VAG cars so thought I was sorted. Maybe just need to learn to do more myself. Just glad I discovered it when I had, rather than at 10pm in the rain and in a hurry to get home.

appreciate this was from a wee while ago, but have you taken it for a drive and used vag com to log the data from the ECU? this can then be used to plot a graph that can help diagnose the cause of the problem.