Shabazmo

This one has me a bit baffled. The car was running fine but this morning it started for about 20 seconds and then died. When I try to start it again, it fires a bit, then nothing. I think its the fuel pump because I have checked to following: I have taken out the shut off solenoid and applying 12v to it, the plunger lifts. I have taken the return pipes off and when cranking there is only a tiny amout of fuel returning back from the pump. The plastic see through pipe is full of fuel. There is no fault code on vagcom There are no warning lights on the dash and all come on as expected when the ignition is on. The door led flashed once when the ignition is turned on. The battery is fully charged and spins the engine over well. I keep charging it all day. The 109 relay is checked and I get 12v out when energising it The needle lift sensor reads the correct resistance The coolant and fuel temp sensors read 9C. The car is in my garage The crank sensor reads the correct resistance I have checked a lot of wiring around the car and all appears ok I have cleaned te main ECU earth point Does anyone know how best to check the fuel pump, or suggest any other checks I should make. Thanks

Don't get any smaller than 800CCA, the higher the better. Its worth spending the extra to get closer to 900

I used a blow torch to help undo the top nut. Hollow sockets are handy like the Draper Vortex 30mm drive can be used with a allen socket and wrench. I have done the job twice and after the second time I fitted youhurt plastic lids over the struts to stop watter getting in. Its dry as a bone 2 years on.

Problem fixed. I used a radiator sealing product, Bars and the leak and smell has gone away. Thank goodness, I didn't fancy removing the dash.

It is highly likely that the vacuum hose from the servo to the vacuum pump has a split in it. You need to remove the hose, check it, then repair it with self amalgamating tape or replace it. Very expensive from Ford but I think VW is half the price. Regards

I decided not to spend

I found a fault. I removed the vacuum pipe from the pump and the servo and found that iy joins in the misddle with a one way valve. The pipe from the servo to the one way valve was split where it joined onto the valve. What must have happened is that the engine must have moved forward to create a larger gap in the split and reduce the servo vacuum to zero. Why it has only happened twice in 2 years and only in torrential rain, I don't know. What's annoying is that the part is

Thanks for your ideas and Alan, your logic sounds interesting. I am convinced that torrential rain has caused the problem so I will examine every part of the servo and report back

Tray still fitted but not sure what could cause the problem if it was not fitted

This problem has happened twice in 2 years. There is a loss of braking ability and the pedal becomes very hard and only depresses a small amount. On both occasions my wife was driving the Galaxy and it was frightening due to the time it took to stop, such that she had to swerve to avoid hitting a vehicle. This tells me that the servo is not working. However when moving off, the problem disappears. What makes the problem interesting is that both problems occurred when the roads were very wet. Now i know you will say "wet brakes" but we both have driven the Galaxy lots when its been wet and never experienced such a problem. So servo fails when wet - Any ideas?

Did radweld fix your problem. I seem to have a leaking heater matrix as I can small antifreeze in the car and I am loosing some coolant. Regards

Thanks for the information Seatkid, I am loosing about say 0.5 litre per 1000 miles. The reason why I am vague is that the Galaxy is a spare car and I only use it at weekends. It is not leaking from the header tank and antifreeze smell is such that I am convinced it is comming into the cabin. My pollen filter is dry and I replaced this 2000 miles ago. It was about that time when I noticed the coolant level had gone down, so I have lived with this problem for about five months. i may have to try radweld but would like to hear from someone who has already done this. Regards

I am loosing some water from my coolant and am finding that the interior smells of antifreeze. I cannot find any dampness on the carpet yet, but am convinced that coolant is finding its way into the cabin. I know that dash removal is a big job to replace the matrix, but has anyone used radweld or similiar to cure the fault. If so, did you put the radweld straight into the header tank or elsewhere. Thanks

How did you heater matrix go. Was it leaking. I have an antifreeze smell inside my Galaxy and was wonderring where the leak was comming from. Regards

I got these from ebay and they worked ok, albeit a bit bright http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220755541779?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Did you manage to open it. Can you also tell me where it is locates as I can't find it. Not under the front passenger wing where I thought it was.

One of the climate control lights on my Galaxy's heater controls have fused. Has anyone tried to replace these. Is it a simple job. I assume that they are LED and have to be soldered. Thanks

I think I have solved the problem but only after spending a few hours examining both sides of the cable. All I did was to remove the black cable on the gear stick side and move and secure the cable about 6mm forward of its original position. Having done that, 2nd gear was great but first gear was jumping out, so I moved the cable back a bit and hey pressto!, all is fine.

Puting my Galaxy in 2nd gear is difficult, but not because it is stiff but because there seems to be too much play in the gear stick. Unless I formly push the lever in 2nd, it can sometimes not engage properly. I am not aware that this is happening with other gear selections. Can the problem be with the gear selector cable or could this be something else. I plan to examine the cabling system next weekend but would appreciate any words of wisdom from someone who has come accross this problem before. Regards shabaz

I fitted 2 munroe reflex to te rear and Delphi to the front and the car is solid and rides well. Sounds as though the front or rear are not right. what is the bounce test like, before and after.

I agree that the most important part is the CCA figure but I would go for 800A. I have the Varta Blue dynamic 95AH and 800A CCA. I have the Mk1 Galaxy diesel 110bhp.

I agree that the most important part is the CCA figure but I would go for 800A. I have the Varta Blue dynamic 95AH and 800A CCA. I have the Mk1 Galaxy diesel 110bhp

The price is very reasonable. don't forget that vat is 20%, so

This does sound that the bearing is at fault. If you don't get it fixed, you can damage the top dish. It happened to me. Best to dismantle and have a look.

I would get your wheel bearing checks. a recent post had the experience of the bearing breaking and the wheel comming off on the M4