Shabazmo

Probably gear selector levey has come loose at the gearbox end. Difficult job to do.

Suzuki, I doubt water is coming in from the floor panel. I think it will be from the bulkhead which is double skinned in places. water gets in the double skin and finds a way to trickle out inside the car. Well that my theory. I have recently had a problem of water leaking in drivers footwell. Because I could not get access to the servo area where the water was coming from, I drilled a hole though the bulkhead and sealed the inner panel with silicone. So far so good, but I am waiting for a big downpour.

For your information 506.01 and 507.00 are long life oils used in variable service interval engines and should be good for circa 20K miles, although I don't recommend this length of miles between oil changes. The 505.01 was a fixed life oil for the 10K interval oil changes. These oils were developed for the VW PD engines that used unit injectors which had the fuel pump and injector as one unit. The injectors were driven by the camshaft and the high forces wer required to open the injector. This meant that a special oil was required. So the oils mentioned can withstand high forces. I use the 507.00 because not only is this oil good for high forces, it will stay in grade for longer.

PD or not, the 505.01 506.01 or 507.00 are all top oils for vw engines. After 229,000 miles, my engine is still going strong

You will eventually have to lift the carpet and cut out the thick felt uner the carpet by using astanley knife and remove it. By doing so, you will be able to see where the water enters the footwell. From there you will be closer to finding the cure. You can then dry out the felt before replacing it. 16 years of Galaxy ownership has taught me a few tricks in that there is no quick way to find a leak.

I am now tackling the 3rd water leak into my 16 years old galaxy that I have owned from new. To cut a long story short, If I put water via a hose into the scuttle area, I can clearly see it drain big time via the drain holes, so no problem there re blockages, but, some water will enter the cabin. Having lifted the carpet and felt, I can see the trickle of water from behind the fuse box, and onto the wheel arch and collecting in the footwell. So the problem here is how do i fix this. Do I have to remove the fuse box to get a better view of the entry point or is there something I should do from the engine compartment.

What about the heater matrix. i had this problem with my Mk1, but solved it with radiator sealant. You would normally smell the sweet antifreeze in the cabin.

The first thing you must do NOW is reject the car in writing to the garage and request a full refund on the grounds that the car was not as described or of merchantable quality. The second thing you must do is tell the credit card company that you are rejecting the car and are claiming a refund. They are also liable. Do both of these NOW. Everything in writing. After that you can start the debate with trading standards or legal guys etc. Finally, learn your lesson. Do your homework before you buy a car, unless you have serious spare money.

You should not have to replace the tubing. First get into the wheel arch area by removing the wheel arch lining. You will see the rubber exit tube of the drain pipe. Stick a screw driver up the hole and unblock it. You will see lots of dirty water gushing out. If this does not work then the pipe has come undone from the sunroof end. Remove sun visor and other plastic bits. Lower the roof linning and you will have access to the pipe. Use a jubilee clip to attach the pipe back on to the sunroof drain spout. Job done.

I have heated seats on my mk1 and its a 120 A. You must have something else that draws more power, unless your battery is bigger.

Zorgman did you ever fix this problem. I have the same problem but only when the weather is wet and it happens once every few months

Finally purchased a sprocket from GSF this afternoon and fitted it. Drove the car for abour 10 miles and all seems fine. Spent about 40 hours on the job of which 30 hours was trying to find the problem. I spend £22 for the sprocket £3 for the bolt. A ridiculous £20 for the crank seal and my fantastic Ford service centre in Odiham gave me a couple of tools on loan. The seal fitting tool and the sprocket holding tool. I am absolutely satisfied that i did not buy a thing that I did not need, but should have spent time more time thinking about the sproket that others in this forum mentioned. Lets hope that soemone can get the benefit if my experience.

Crank seal sorted. Here is the sprocket. http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19559

Update so far. I have taken off the sprocket only to find that teh sprocket does not have a woodruff key. It is held onto the crankshaft by a flat part which stops it rotating. The flat part was distorted and hence play in the sprocket, So its a new sprocket which I will have to get for Saturday. I am now trying to get the seal out but with difficulty. Any ideas?

Seatkid and Bigdog, You are probably right. I rechecked the timing and the camshaft is out. So it must be a worn woodruff key. I tried to use my pulley holding tool to hold the sprocket but it interferes with the socket on the sprocket bolt. Does anyone have any ideas on to loosen the 19mm sprocket bolt.

Thanks Seatkid. It seems like yet another stripdown to come. I will try checking the crankshaft sensor one more time this evening before I begin.

I had a quick look at Elsawin and there is a special test box which I don't have, to test the wiring loom . I did however did some checking on the pump loom connector plug. On the pump side terminal 9 and 10 read 16ohms and is within spec. I also checked the engine side of the plug. Terminals 5 and 10 had a resistance of 1.7 ohms, but I am not sure if this is a short or as it should be. Terminal 4 is ground. Again not sure if this is correct. Any help would be appreciated.

Damm. After a week of sweet driving the starting problem re-occurred. Now after hours of checking everything I managed to get it starting rough. I noticed excess white smoke from the exhaust. I thought about compression test but my tester did not have the right size glow plug adapter. So I decided to use VCDS again and checked the injection timing. On basic setting 04, the second reading reads 0 instead of about 56. The temperature reading 9th column was 90 or so. So what does this tell me. Pumpelectronics gone? wiring back to the ecu? I will need to look up the pump test procedure. http://www.fgoc.co.uk/forum/Themes/Blue/images/icons/modify_inline.gif

I think I have a problem with my glow plugs, in that power to the plugs are not being transferred through the multipin connector in the engine bay. I was hoping to open the plug and check the commections but can't seem to find out how to do this. Any ideas. Regards

Problem Fixed. So here is the final story. Despite changing the cambelt 18,000 miles ago, I must have been unusually slack in doing this job. I found that the TDC, camshaft and fuel pump were out, but the car decided only last week to complain by way of not starting. So what did I do wrong. The only thing I locked 18000 miles ago was the camshaft and the fuel pump, but I did not lock the crankshaft. This was because the crankshaft on the AFN engine is locked by a special tool on the ring gear on the flywheel. When the belt is tensioned, the crankshaft, if not locked, will move, hence the reason why the timing gets out. On this occasion, I stuch a pry bar on the ring gear and locked the flywheel before putting the belt on the pulleys and tensioning the belt. The moral of the story is forget tipex, buy the right tools, follow the instructions and get it right first time. Thank you to all those who help me think clearly

Thanks Bigdog, I will check but I have been turning the engine via the crankshaft aprocket both ways so would have noticed any play.

AAAHH! I have just found that the TDC mark on the fly wheel was not where I thought when I did the timing belt change 18K miles ago. I now need to reset the camshaft and fuel pump. So although the fuel pump and the camshaft were aligned, the crankshaft was out. How I managed to do 18K miles, i don't know. Now this may not fix it, but at least I have found a fault. I will update on Saturday.

Latest is that I now have the car apart in order to check the static positions of the crankshaft, camshaft and fuel pump, just in case the fuel pump timing was out. I have now finsished for the evening and the all settings appear correct. Now I am stuck. Could it be a faulty fuel pump and how can I test this. I just don't like giving up so any suggestions welcome.

Seatkid, just what I was thinking. I had a new fuel filter ready for the 220k mile service and changes the filter having first filled it with clean diesel. Eh no luck! Now that the car is in the garage I did notice white smoke from the exhaust (unburnt diesel), but not sure if this means that the fuel pressure ir right. I have to assusme so. Although the needle valve reads the correct resistance I would like to know what feed it requires to activate it. Anyone know?

Thanks for the replies. The tank is half full, so we have used half a tank, so I doubt the fuel is a problem. Given that there is very little fuel being returned to the tank, I think the presure is lacking and am thinking of a fuel filter blockage, but then if that was the case why do I have the clear tube full of fuel.