Scorpiorefugee

A few weeks ago I opened a topic about an exhaust blowing noise coming from the vicinity of the turbo and which eventually seemed to be coming from the EGR. Since I was paying for the work on this and worked on the assumption that it would be cheaper to find a replacement I found a Non-egr replacement on E-bay for about

H Daz, It seems that no-one knows how to sort this one. Mine started to suffer at about 160K, it came on suddenly and continued until it died recently at 230K. You are the first that I have seen to find a way of stopping it and I wish you every success in finding a solution. If you do, there are a lot of folks out there who will be pleased to hear about it.

Simple physics explains that, if your front end is lifting, spring assisters will not solve that problem although they may lift the rear end. As someone has already pointed out, you need to check the noseweight of your van which should be, as I remember, around but no more than 50Kgm. Basically, enough to keep your rear end on the ground but not enough to lift the front. It is a good many years since I towed a 17 footer with a mk1 Granada with notoriously soft suspension and that was all cured with a Scott stabiliser which had the effect of straightening the coupling in a vertical plane which lifts the back end and puts more weight on the front. Also, the effect on the general stability was so good that I never had a nervous moment. Do not be put off using a stabiliser by people with a gung ho attitude. Modern vehicles have much improved suspension but with high sided vehicles now capable of high speeds and traffic densities much higher, you need all the safety factors you can get. An unstable outfit and light steering is death trap. Lecture over. Please be safe.

Now THAT is a success story! Bl00dy well done!

I had the same problem and I found a set of security torx bits, the ones with the hole in the centre, in the local pound shop. Having got them out, I replaced then with 3/4" no 8 round head screws, but, having swopped the MAFs over between my 2 Gals I now just leave the screws out - no problems.

Again, don't bother. Go where you can get a full check for a few quid more. I believe that the only way to do the job properly is to suck it all out and put back a measured amount which rather makes these tins, which only contain about about a quarter of what you might need, look useless. I bought one and still have it, part full. I eventually went to a specialist who teted it, diagnosed the problem and refilled it after repair, all for

Your signature indicates a 98 110 which is a different engine but, before you lash out on a new one, I had a problem with my 98 100 a while ago. It wasn't seeping but the engine injection timing was all over the place. Sometimes it would be fine but not for long and then it would rattle like an old taxi and run like a lame dog. After much effort proving that everything else was OK I was about to invest in a new one and then accidentally put about 5L of unleaded in and than filled up with diesel. By the time the tank was nearing empty it was running sweetly and contined to do so until the engine seized about a year later at 230K

My first reaction is to ask how confident you are about the 24,000. In the past 20 years I've averaged 50K per year and vehicles doing up to 250K and never had tracking checked or needed to so I do think that you could have a problem with the history on that vehicle, unless you bought it new. People who buy Galaxies do not normally do 8,000 per year unless it's a Motability vehicle. Every low mileage vehicle I've ever bought has been a 'wrongun'

My only experience of this was with my old 110 bhp unit - now dead. However, I had a very strange fault and eventually got round to disconnecting the air input pipe to look at the inside of the EGR and found great lumps of debris. I just dug around with my fingers and got as much out as I could but it made no difference. The problem was later resolved by cleaning the injectors (accidentally) by running it with a full tank of diesel diluted with 5 litres of unleaded. :blink: It then ran beautifully in spite of a very grubby EGR and over 200k miles.. I have to say that, in my experience, it is possible to be ove zealous with these things. How to get at it? All I did was to remove the secondary bulkhead and struggle. My 53 reg Ghia developed an exhaust leak around the EGR and rather than pay

As I remember the thread is a large diameter fine one. Is it stripped or cross threaded?

In that case, provided you do not sit in any traffic queues on a downhill slope for too long you have nothing to worry about. Just remember that little quirk. When I first got mine I got stuck in a queue in central London with the gauge showing between red and 1/4 and still made the 120 miles home as I'd left my wallet at home. I'll never know how close that was but I did manage 745 miles on a tankful.

This is difficult to predict. Personally, I have done 50 miles and survived but it very much depends on the slope as the tank is on the OS and is fixed lengthways with channels caused by the design for the fixing straps. I have just drained my tank via the tank unit hole in the top and it is obvious that there is a serious problem on slopes. I started with the gauge showing about 3/8, normally enough for 150 - 200 miles if I live dangerously. My drive is about 1 in 5 nose down and I could see a fair amount of fuel. After removing about 5 litres the level had dropped below the point where the fuel could have been sucked out by the tank unit. I continued to empty the tank and put the fuel into my other Galaxy leaving I guess about a gallon which was too much trouble to get out. I went on a long trip the following day and reckon that the fuel I took out took me 300 - 350 miles being 6 gallons or more. This is a problem which others have reported and my own experience is that, with 1/4 tank on my drive, if I leave it ticking over, it stops and is difficult to restart even on level ground with an extra 10 liters added. Added to this, fuel gauges vary. On my '98 one I could get it down to the red before the light come on. My '52 seems to come on at just below 1/4. Also, on the level the gauge can read 1/4 tank more than on my drive. The tank is nominally 70L but I have put as much as 75 at one go in both of mine. Confusing, isn't it? My advice is "Don't push it or you may end up doing just that."

I'm with Seatkid on this. If you have a Galaxy and want extra performance, either you motor isn't working as it should or you really don't want a Galaxy. If you really do want to go ahead with this thing, If it's black, it's usually -ve or chassis. Plug it in and see if there's any voltage on it. If it is a -ve, it may just be a supplemental ground connection so it may run without it.

You can get a long lead and get your computer as close as possible to the car and, yes, removing the battery will lose the codes. If you are getting a VAG com, make sure you get one with a compatible computer connection. Your split pipe could be an intercooler pipe and that area can get pretty gooey on older vehicles and could be part of your problem but I would have thought unlikely unless it is really gooed and then you do have a problem.

Lots of possible causes so your first move should be to get the error codes read and the cheapest way to do that is to borrow or buy a VAG com interface and laptop. You can buy one for less than

Just in case you haven't found out about water pumps yet. Failure is sudden, silent and total as the impeller falls off. It is much better to look at them as a routine change than wait until they go. Fortunately, on the later engines, you can go a long way with a failed one so long as you take it easy and use the heater as necessary to help the engine cooling but if you have the more powerful unit that may not be an option.

And swap it for a Skoda? :16: I am having serious problems avoiding going for another pre 2000 Gal 'cos the later versions just are not as comfortable. In fact, I'm not looking forward to using my '52 Ghia at all. Unfortunately, the Citroen was a 60th birthday present for SWMBO and she likes the colour. It's a useful shopping trolley but not much good for anything else. Worse - she got Myeloma for her 65th so that is forbidden territory. :16:

It's probably one of the 'free extras' that Ford fit as a bonus for paying

Thanks SeatKid, Unfortunately, we have been trying to get down to 2 vehicles for years and this way we're not left with any difficult decisions. But there again... it might be worth a look. :P

My faithful old bus has finally thrown in the towel. It died on a hill on the M5 yesterday morning as a result of extreme engine fatigue at the old age of 230. The shame is that it just had new pads, MOT, Cat (Carbon filter) tax and insurance and was running beautifully right up to the last 20 seconds. At least it was quick. :16: It is doubtful if there are any usable donor parts as it is all original but if anyone is desperate and quick it may yet have a use. It has to go very soon to get tax back and the man in the black overall has offered

Hi and welcome. There is an annoyingly elusive problem which some of these suffer from (mine included). Basically, after a short (or long) run, they seem to need cranking for up to 10 seconds before they fire up again. Mine's been like it for 3 years or 70,000 miles and, while it seems to be getting slowly worse, it was sudden onset and still starts eventually. I've seen several posts on this but not one positive result. It may be worth redefining your problem against this possibility just to gain some possible solutions.

Nice one. Now all I need is about 1000 similar tips and I might be able to hear the radio...... or even SWMBO giving me directions :) . There again.. ;)

My first thought is that you should get the error codes read. Use Ford as a last resort but see if someone on this site who lives near can help. Th Tmap sensor is (I think) fitted into the return pipe from the intercooler which comes up from under the radiator and up the front of the engine then over the top to the inlet manifold vie the infamous EGR valve. Look about half way down for a wire going to a device fitted in the side of the pipe. When you get it out it will probably be covered in a messy gunk. There is probably a thin tube connection somewhere near it which feeds the pressure back to a sensor on the ECU.

I've just ordered one of those thingies 'cos my EGR appears to be leaking exhaust gas and is US so, if you want to wait while I assess it I'll post a report in a week or so. From what I can gather thes things are marketed to those looking for enhanced performance and I have found a couple of reports of improved low speed performance.

Hi, Mine went at about 80K as I remember and it does seem typical. I don't know f any way of being sure, perhaps the garage can help but many get the cam belt done at the same time unless it has been done recently. In case you don't know yet, the recommended period for cam belts is 60k but many recommend 40k. Mine had done 70K when the ford dealer sold it to me bt I had to check the history and tell tham that they shoul have done it before selling it on as they had done all of the servicing and should have known - it is worth checking.