Scorpiorefugee

Hi, If you're using the Haynes maual you could struggle cos I think that only covers the original 90bhp and the fuse panel on the 110s is completely different. I had to use the circuit from a TIS disc. I think the point is that you can eliminate the need to get involved with all of that by testing as I tried to describe which will prove which way to go next. If you haven't got a TIS disc, they are freely available but I had an old one dated '98 which covered mine while the more recent '04 didn't. From what you say you may well have a problem elsewhere. My heater has been working virtually full time lately,staying on for long journeys but over the last few days it has failed to fire up and the gauge recently took 12 miles to move off the bottom and then fell back again before getting up to normal on the motorway. It The good bit is that the fuel economy has improved by a few MPG.

Lets stick with the glow plugs for the moment. Reliability - Mine died of neglect at 230k and the glow plugs - original - were still fine. I had the same problem soon after I got it - first winter - and the clue was the cooling fans always came on after switching the engine off because the temeperature sensor (faulty) was indicating hot engine and that is why, even on a cold morning, the glow plugs and lamp were never lit. Unplugging the sensor effects a temporary cure. It took me 2 days to work that out. The electrics for all of this, including the fuse and a meaty relay I think, are all at the back of the fuse board by the driver's right knee and can take a while to get to. If the glow plug light is coming on for a few seconds the control logic and sensors are probably fine leaving fuse, duff glow plugs, broken wire or the fault is somewhere else completely. bridging 12v directly to the glow plugs while someone else tries to start it is an option but be prepared for a bit of a splash cos it will take 50 amps or so and the wire may get a bit warm. Alternatively check for 12V on the plugs while the glow plug lamp is lit. Use a bulb rather than a digital meter cos by the time the meter has worked out what's happening it's all over and you can warm your hands on the bulb. Finally, if the indicator lamp is lit and no voltage, get a circuit, have a stiff drink, wrap up warm, tell the missus you will be some time, disconnect the battery and start pulling the 3 level fuse panel to bits. Why does it always happen when it's so bl00dy cold? :31: My auxilliary heater has just gone temperamental and it can stay that way! :lol:

I did the same a few years ago in a Talbot Horizon. Wrecked the steel rim and the tyre but I never had any other problems. As far as the tracking is concerned, if it has caused a tracking problem then realignment is only a fix 'cos somthing else is bent, but then you know that. This is usually the time that most people sell it on and let someone else spend loads of moola chasing a mysterious tyre wear problem. Seriously, I can't see that you've got owt to worry about. Lets hope not. Have you got a cat to kick? :)

Following on from SeatKid I think he may well have a good point. The glow plugs are protected by a 60 or 75 amp fuse because they draw a very high current. Was you switch capable of handling this or was the current much less because the plugs were shot? It might be worth trying it with the fan on full and it should slow noticably when you switch on because of the heavy current drain. These engines seem to start after 5 - 10 seconds without glow plugs even at -5.

Two quick thoughts which you may be well aware of... Poor cold starting - how long does the glow plug light stay on. it should be several seconds in these temperatures. If it is just a quick flash, try disconnecting the coolant temperature sender and it should stay on for about 15 seconds. If it is difficult to start when warm. Live with it 'cos I haven't seen a solution for that one yet.

Michael H, You do not say when it started. If it started after all the work was done then you should check the credentials of the repair man. If it happened gradually then I reckon SeatKid is well on the money. If it happened suddenly prior to the repair then it's worth trying to relate it to something which happened about the same time. My experience of this sort of thing is that it is a man made fault (poor workmanship) or, as Seatkid says, tyres.

I'm afraid I have no experience in this area but, from what you have said so far, I think you have to explore Mirez's suggestion. I shouldn't go off buying anything yet but I think you have to get your tools out and start waggling wires to see if you can make something happen. Someone else on here may be able to tell you which ones to start with. All sorts of possibilities may develop from this from locating the fault to changing the regularity of the problem. If you're really lucky it may go away for a while or even permanently.

There has to be a clue somewhere. Does your Gal have a radio control stalk on the steering column? If it does, and I don't know if any Galaxys do, then Mirez may have a point. In the meantime, how about a discussion on the plural of Galaxy as a car model name as opposed to a mass of stars. :) It might keep the topic busy until the next clue comes along. :o

This sound like a good way to get into trouble. :o Mirez has a point but if it were a fault in a area where there is movement I should expect some sort of noticable relationship with steering wheel movement - not always though. When it sounds, does it sound for long or is it just a beep? Also, can you relate it to anything else that is going on. It might be easier to swap the car with one like this - or has someone else just done that? :) One thing to remember with faults like this is that it can often be down to some sort of damage/disturbance when something else has occurred. If you have had the car for some time you may be able to think of smething. I think this is going to need a lot of patience and luck.

Hear Hear! But will anyone listen? I hate to think what may have happened if some young mother with children aboard had been driving instead of you and the white van man had not been so understanding. Probably down to driver error as you say. I used to teach electronics and agree everything you say. The solution is not beyond the reach of any good O-level student.

Tim spam, I agree with what you have said but how many times has the logic and decisions made by these super intelligent and trained people been proved to be wrong? I cannot accept that a responsible person could leave a system which turns off the power suddenly and without warning and then allows the user to continue driving without understanding why. You have only to look around at the world today to see the results of bad decisions by these trained and skilled people in all walks of life. So many of these decisions are made for wrong reasons or without a wide understanding of the implications. I'm sorry to have to say it but I still believe that this is just another case of someone making a decision and then it being widely accepted without anyone re-examining the evidence. I also still maintain that there must be simple electronc means of reacting to the problem without killing the power completely. However, the only possible action is to make the case and I am sure, or at least hope, that someone is already on that. As far as we are concerned, I think that SeatKid has already done the job in making everyone aware of the problem. I'm done now. :)

I think it would be nice to end this topic on something we can all agree on. :) :D :D

The system can detect the failure. Why does it have to shut down permanently? Why can't it pick up again when the fault clears. Most problems of this type are very intermittent. Ask Seatkid if he would have preferred to get the power back after he released the throttle and pressed it down again. I have no statistics on sudden total failure of the control but, based on reports on other users of this site, I would imagine that it is very much less than the sort of problem that most users get. If this does happen then it is very much like a broken cable and shut down is the only possibility. However, I should be suprised if this were more than one chance in one thousand and that would leave the driver with only unmistakable symptoms of a faulty throttle control and no dangerous situations for the vast majority of situations with still no danger of an uncontrollable full throttle condition. Other possibilties are available with only minor circuit additions but the simplest solution would need only a minor software change. This is all getting to feel like arguing against the nanny state that this bl00dy government is trying to impose. :) :) :)

Its the only possible choice available. As I tried to point out earlier, any half competent electronics engineer could add a couple of components on the ECU board to eliminate this possibility. The possibility of any situation more dangerous than sudden total loss of power just shouldn't exist.

This is generating a lot of interest and a lot of good comment. I stand by everything that I have written on this. As far as broken cables go. There was nothing that could be done about it and it is therefore not a fair comparison. In this case there are a whole lot of possible simple and safe alternatives and the one chosen is the worst possible choice. To remove all power without warning when it is not necessary is irresponsible! The other situations like over boost etc. only result in a reduction of power. In mitigation, the software is probably getting on for 20 years old now. As far as criticizing designers goes, what about the climate control panel? Whoever thought of putting the most unnecessarily complicated bit of control gubbinry in such a daft place must qualify for some sort of prize.

Sorry mate, I have to disagree strongly. What you say is correct to a point but the safe solution is much simpler. i.e failsafe if there is an open circuit but return to normal if you get a within range reading. Easier still, use a bit of simple analogue design and strap a fixed resistor to the control wiper and cold end of the control would eliminate all of the fancy digital stuff. The trouble is that most digital design engineers know little or nothing about analogue or have blocked it out of their thinking. Sound a warning and put a message on the display but never remove power without warning. That is criminally irresponsible. This goes back to my earlier comments about the dipsticks that make the rules. As far as driving is concerned, I did have a similar but unrelated problem and I simply switched the ignition on and off while still in gear and moving and the reset cleared the problem. No doubt there will be comments that this will damage the engine or something but I never had a problem. One thing is certain. I think Seatkid did us all a great favour by bringing this up. I think every Galaxy driver should be made aware of this problem.

All this in the name of progress! :o :( :( As you said, you have to wonder what the software engineers were thinking of. Worn potentiometers will almost always go intermittent so why go into shut down mode at the first sign. Some bl00dy imbecile probably thought that it was a good way to make sure you are aware that there is a problem. Prat! It is the same sort of thinking that is engendered in the European Parliament. God help us!

That's got to be better than having to put up with 2 old codgers pontificating. :)

It allsounds as if it has been just standing around neglected for a while so an oil change should see it off and running. With a bit of luck you've got a good one. :)

I've many years of experience fixing this type of equipment, mainly domestic stuff, that has been ruined by spilled drinks and often urine :) . The problems are a combination of damp, corrosion from acid and electolysis where, as a result of the applied voltage, entire legs of I Cs are transferred to some other part of the circuit. It is possible to clear many faults by stripping it down as far as possible and giving it a good wash out with a soft brush and loads of mild detergent followed by a good rinse with water - preferably deionised. A close visual inspection is advised looking for corrosion and missing connections. (Worth doing before and after washing) Repairs with a fine soldering iron and, in my state of decay, a magnifying glass shoud be followed by an overnight spell in the airing cupboard and a few prayers. I have found that actual component failure is rare but there can be a lot of patching to do. It is important to catch it before too much damage is done and long spells of leaving it powered up can be fatal. The one bit that can be beyond repair is the control panel and switche as these are frequently bits of plastic with tracks of conductive paint.

Agreed but from his description I think he was describing the commutator which could well mean the thing is a write off and could well relate to the original fault description of random stopping. Also, I don't think I should be too happy to go to the trouble of putting it all back together and trusting it without being sure about it. I suppose it all comes down to convenience/cost. It will be interesting to know the result.

Get the other half to put his overalls on and get his spanners out. From what you've said it should kkep him busy for a bit. :)

Sorry, I can't help you but someone else probably can. It would help if you provided year and version as there are wide variations. It helps if you put it into your signature - personal details in user profile.

You don't give up easily do you? :D :D :D Commutator problems are not common. have you tries a bit of light rubbing with some fine emery cloth or wet & dry. (Yes! I know that is asking for trouble. :) :) :D )

Have you not tried the inside door handle. Obviously you have and no effect. If the motors are holding the thing locked, try disconnecting the battery. If all else fails you will have to remove the door panel and approach the job as if replacing the barrel. Your first comment suggests that this was sticking. ( might be worth trying WD40 and a good waggle with the key first) Somewhere on this site is a good description on how to change the lock barrel. When mine went thanks to a ham fisted low life that wrecked the lock and a lot more to steal my sat nav, I stripped and deactivated the key lock and just lived with it. The lock mechanisms are freely available on Ebay but they come without the barrel. It can be a s0d of a job unfortunately.