Scorpiorefugee

Seized wipers is a good one to start on. The vast majority of these are repairable. Once you have got it out, and you've got to do that at some point, it's just a matter of stripping it down with the aid of some plus gas or similar and cleaning and greasing and it should be good for several years. Mine had a totally shot bush in the middle (not at the wiper mountings) which I replaced with a piece of 15mm water pipe with a slot in it to allow it to be reduced in diameter slightly. It did 100,000 miles and was still going strong when the engine died. You'll probably find full instructions in the FAQ. Welcome and good luck.

It's been a while, which just shows that Galaxys can be reliable. Unfortunately, I now seem to have lost one cylinder. It started without fuss a couple of days ago on a 30 mile round trip and then ran OK on 2 short trips before becoming permanent. It seems to be a permanent one of four down. I've scanned the site and some useful suggestions from some years ago suggested checking the injector loom and connections and fuel filter. I've checked the injector continuity from the 5 pin connector on the head and they all measure about 3 ohms. I've drained the fuel filter - no water present. The filter was changed about 10,000 miles ago. My VAG com doesn't seem to like WIN 7 (Who does?) so I've ordered another. (£7.50 - how times have changed) My thoughts now are that it could be an injector or, at worst, piston or valve. Hopefully, the brief recovery eliminates the latter but I did think of putting into 6th and pushing it to test compression. It might be worth trying some injector cleaner but it's now Saturday night. My old 110 gal had a needle lift injector go dodgy and I cleared that inadvertently by putting a few litres of unleaded in while half asleep early one morning. Any thoughts, suggestions or tales of past experiences (Relevant please) :) would be appreciated. On a different subject, I posted a request on here a couple of years ago about some annoying crush marks on the velour upholstery which made the interior look quite tatty. I have now managed to get rid of them with a steam cleaner with a stiff brush on the end and it looks like new.

A very common problem on these and many other modern motors is water pump rotor failure. It should be changed every time with the cam belt. With these, it is often possible to travel at low speeds or leave it ticking over without overheating. Perhaps not so in the current warm weather. Sadly, it's much about the same job to change it as fit a new cam belt. Sorry Seatkid. Didn't spot your reply. Not been around for a while. I'm back cos the damn thing is misfiring. trying to find my way round the injector wiring.

I have just had fun and games sorting my levelling motors and this may help someone. The first sign of trouble was first trip out in the new year when the offside lamp suddenly pointed down to where the fog lights should point. Having removed the lamp unit and the motor assy I couldn't see much wrong until I really stripped out the printed cct and found it was all corroded. This was almost certainly due to the fact that before I bought the car, 5 years ago, somone had removed the cover to fit a bulb and broken the clep and just tossed the cover down the back leaving it open to the weather. Several tries at cleaning and resetting only proved that the cct was us and every time I put it back the motor just cranked the light down until it pointed at the floor so I managed to find one on Ebay and it all started to work. Unfortunately, this now showed that the NS unit was only working intermittently and doing some very odd things. Having learned from the other, it was relatively easy to work out that the problem was the potentiometer which is used to sense the position of the mechanism. Swapping the one from the old one from the other side fixed it and I now have 2 working lights. This all supports what Taliska wrote 2 years ago. What I learned was that, contrary to a previous suggestion that a bit of grease is needed, the nylon gears don't need it but the grease added may have got onto the potentiometer track and effected a temporary fix. Another thing to try is to rub a soft lead pencil on the track. Another point worth knowing is that the motor unit is only used over about 20% of it's range (unless you get a fault like mine) and this means that the wear and tear is concentrated at one end. Also, if like me, you seldom adjust thse things, the potentiometer never moves apart from every time you switch on it does a little shuffle and the overall effect is that it wears out in just one place. In my case, both of the originals had clear marks in 2 places indicating that the units had spent a long time without being moved so that probably means that I shall soon have to replace the NS unit which I repaired. One final piece of advice, adjust them regularly and, if one packs up, bite the bullet and replace it, preferably both, replace all of the bulbs, get the beams adjusted and make sure the covers are watertight.

I looked aroung for a cheap replacement and the best I found was

I think it would be most productive to forget the MAF until you can resolve this pipe problem. You need to identify it's size and start and end points before any can help much. Also, it is assumed that yours is the 90bhp unit, can you confirm please?

My radio has been tending to distort at low volume for some time but I put up with it until there was a loud plop and one channel died completely. Initially, I resigned myself to a standard radio replacement with a bit of plastic until curiosity got tyhe better of me. Diagnosing the faulty chip was easy because it was hot and smelly. Just out of interest, there are 2 stereo chips, each giving front and back for one side. A replacement was difficult to find, the only source I could find was at about

Just a quick thought - Have you had the cam belt changed on schedule. If it's near the end of its life it might be risky giving it a good high rev test.

Not sure about the 100 amps but it might just be possible as an initial surge until the plug heats and the resistance increases. I think the fuse for the circuit is 60 amps. SK is absolutely right about the short circuit risk. A splash to a ground conection can give a flash which could leave you blinking for some time and, as a battery can provide currents in excess of 1000 amps, the wire could get hot pretty quickly and leave a nasty burn on the fingers. As things go in 3s, you might just bang your head on the bonnet as you leap back. :ph34r: Having said that, It's probably sort of thing I would do as it is a quick easy check if you're careful and wear welding gloves. More to the point, how long does the glow plug light stay on and do you wait for it to go out before cranking the engine. My 115 '52 Ghia does much the same but, by the time I've cleared the ice it's OK so I suspect it's reasonably normal diesel behaviour. These engines start pretty well on the button under most conditions with or without glow plugs so, even if the glow plug light is on for several seconds and it starts OK, you may still have a problem.

Don't condemn the MAF too soon. Try disconnecting it first, you should notice a severe loss of power. As far as I know MAFs do not cause the limp home state to occur so I think you should be looking elsewhere. Give it a day or so and wait for some more informed replies. If you've just got this car you have probably inherited the reason the previous owner sold it so it is probably nothing obvious.

I agree with RichardGal, I've had 2 screens fitted to Granadas and both lost elements quite quickly. Since the wires are between the glass sandwich there is no point in looking for cut marks but I should not be suprised if it was damage caused by bad handling. i.e. in stock movement and in and out of vans etc. It is also probable that they are not as good as the originals. Certainly, there is no point in worrying about relays as they simply switch the power on an off. As a windscreen rapidly loses its new appearance I doubt anyone could get away with second hand although they must be pretty expensive items.

I've re-read your posts on this and it seems a bit odd. First, because you had error codes pointing to MAF and EGR or anything else it doesn't mean anything as they could have been there for years. It might be worth having them read again or better still get your own VAG com and save a fortune. As far as the vibration is concerned, I find it difficult to believe that anything to do with engine management could cause anything that violent and, since vibration is usually caused by something out of balance rotating, a clue should be available by trying to establish if it related to engine revs or car speed. For example try pressingthe clutch and revving the engine once the fault is showing, or try it in a different gear. I don't have any experience with this particular problem but I am sure that some simple DIY experimentng could help far more than pinning your hope on some possibly obsolete error codes.

I can endorse what RichardGal has said. I took the easy way out and ordered a mod kit (

Yes. I think I could be on my way to Coventry soon. :huh: Eastbourne wouldn't be too bad but I doubt that's an option. ;) Sorry Seatkid. Didn't mean it. Honest! :D :(

Or you could look for a Sharan being broken :P Hasn't Seatkid got an Alhambra nearing the end of it's days? ;) :P B) Er, perhaps I shouldn't have said that. :P

:) :D :46:

I had problems with this a while ago. It is part of No3 injector (or 2 depending on where you start.) It's easy to identify as it is the only injector with an extra wire on. It's expensive

Which engine is it? My old 110 bhp always had bubbles in the fuel pipe and it didn't seem to bother it but I did onetime have a similar problem but when the power went it made a noise like an old taxi. I think I eventually traced it down to the needle lift injector on cyl. 3 but it cleared itself after I accidentally put in about 5 L of unleaded and topped it up with diesel. If I had allowed the 'experts' loose on it it would have cost me

George, You are probably right. I can't remember too much about the details but the main point is the price. I was getting prices as low as

I don't think it's a cat on these models. It is a particulate filter. I had one fitted on my '98 110 gal by my local tyre place for

I've no experience with this but, to keep it simple, if you've eliminated spurious operation of the remotes it might be worth giving the manual (key) locking a bit of exercise with a good spray of WD40. If you use remotes exclusively one of the switches might just be sitting half way.

Lots of perfectly good ideas coming in but the question remains... If physically feeling the temperature of the pipes confirms that it is running excessively cool then this is totally against the normal effect of overheating for just about any fault bar permanently open thermostat or totally wrong fuel/air mixture so, if everything checks out OK, where is the heat going? I had the common problem of water pump failure a couple of years ago at this time of year and made it home at 55mph for 200 miles with a cold radiator with the cooling apparently being managed by the interior heating and possibly the plumbing for the Aux. heater by simple convection or the effect of the pump which circulates water to the aux. heater so, as I suggested earlier, it might be worth re-examining these areas. While I can't argue against any suggestions re possible sensor problems, if the engine is not getting hot to the touch then this seems unlikely - but it still doesn't make sense. Just one more point, my MkII Aux heater is on virtually full time at the moment and I do know that without it the temp gauge was barely leaving the bottom until I hit 70 on the motorway.

Adding it all up makes no sense 'cos your engine is running and the aux heater is running and yet nothing is getting hot. Either there is no heat being generated (not possible given what you've described) or there is a lot of heat being lost (thermostat stuck open but that would mean at least tepid water out of the bottom and, anyway, you've changed the 'stat) As I said - makes no sense. Some thoughts - It has been bl00dy cold and when my aux heater failed to fire up a couple of days ago (It seems to have fixed itself now) I had similar symptoms. Are you sure its running? Is it any better now it's a bit warmer? If you agree my comments above it may be worth rechecking everything after a 10 mile run. I just cannot see how everything can remain cold after a reasonable run even in this weather. one more thought, when my aux heater failed I noticed an increase in the MPG as it wasn't 'wasting' fuel.

Thanks, Merry Christmas and leave the problem 'til next year, it may get warmer. :lol: Ron.