Scorpiorefugee

I don't want to give you false hope but I do have exprience of cam drive failures on just 2 cars and on both occasions by some fluke the cam shaft stopped in a safe position. To be fair both of these were some years ago but since you don't seem to have had the big bang and engine siezure it might be worth just checking. I've no experience of DIY cam belt replacement on these so I can't offer any more advice. Like I said, you might have been lucky, so it is perhaps worth checking.

Why didn't the MOT pick up the steering rack? Have you had the error codes read? I'm afraid you've fallen into the 'Keep replacing things until the customer runs out of money.' trap. If it has any redeeming features at all you shoud spend

A VAG com is a lot cheaper than a Cat or Lambda sensor and it will probably be a lot more use. I know that it is a lot more complex than the old petrol engines I used to drive before I discovered the diesel Galaxy but, at 100K and no known history, my first test would be to fill it up and take it for a long drive down a straight road. No thrashing, just let it build up. Look for smoke and rough running and see if it settles or gets worse. I've had motors which were useless at first but just got better and better just by giving them a few longish runs. 2 to 3 miles per litre is a lot of wasted fuel which is either burnt or lost and I think there must be some signs somewhere. Look at your oil and exhaust for anything abnormal, but do give it a longish run first. Before I got my first diesel gal I tried a 20L petrol and it seemed much as you described so I make my excuses and left. Most people sell cars because of problems and not because they want a change.

You haven't got short fat hairy legs, have you? :lol: :D :D

I'm surprised that no-one has considered the opposite. i.e. how easy is it to get out? We're both now of pensionable age and cannot remember how we used to cget out of many of the cars we have had in the past. It's a lot easier to climb up into a slightly higher seat than it is to struggle out of one that is barely a foot above kerb height. My mother is 90 and she has no trouble at all getting in and out of the Gal. I'm sure that your mum will love it once she gets ove the shock of the amount of space she has. My only fear is that your dad might have a few shocks on the maintenance side. Nevertheless, I hope it works out for both of them.

I'm beginning to wonder if there is a case for a form of inverted snobbery to buy a Ghia and have the front fogs removed. :lol: :lol: :D MrT, that sounds like a brilliant mod. Far better than accepting that you have to have the front ones on when you only need the back ones. It seems a bit farcical that correct installation and alignment of fog lights is not part of the MOT when you think of the way that some people have them set.

you cant! you have to have the main lights switched on and only then can you pull the switch out to switch on the fogs Wrong on my current motors. I never use them so I had to go out and check. :D But I did have one a few years ago which did need the main lights on first but I cant remember which. Just remember I was bl00dy annoyed when I found out but it didn't matter for the previous reason. I reckon it was either the Granny, the Scorpio or the Merc. :wacko: B) B) Can I say "B0LL0CKS" too? :P

Go for it Pineappleman. B) :huh: Any chance of a crackdown on illegal numberplates as well? Just noted the dates. This must be a remote backwater in the site or I've go too much time on my hands.

Agreed. I only responded to the original post in good faith as I see no point in spending time adding useless accessories. As far as being a rant, it is more a case of putting forward a point of law and good practice as far too many drivers are now ignorant of or in total disregard of both. I only picked up on the later comments by accident as I took no further interest in it. We did have a recent reported local case of driver having an on the spot fine for mis-use of front fogs and there was an immediate drop in the numbers using them in broad daylight and there was the usual load of opionated misunderstanding. I just think that the roads would be a lot safer if more emphasis was made on applying the rules rather than making excuses for ignoring them. It seems a little strange that after my piece of advice, only one has come in with much in the way of assistance with the original request and I do feel sorry for the OP and hope that he goes on to gain as much from this site as I have. He probably lost interest after he fitted them. I just hope he is using them wisely.

Thanks fellers, it's good to know that there are still drivers out there who try to do the job properly and by the rules without making up silly justifications for their own incompetence or bad habits. I'm afraid this is a pet hate (if you hadn't noticed) but there are a lot more and the list would generate a lot of complaints and ill founded comments from the many drivers who seem to have graduated from the "Grand Theft Auto" school of motoring so I shall just take some pills and pretend that all is well with the world for a while. :huh:

Polish????? What's that? B)

Addendum to above. My last comment was a little harsh - apologies. There can be no doubt that many use them as "Get out of my way" lights. However, I have tried my front fogs on occasions in severe weather and switched them off immediately as they had no useful effect. I find it bl00dy annoying to have to switch them on in severe daylight fog just to have my rear fogs on but I suppose that it does little harm under those circumstances. It's all in the name of progress I suppose.

I have just got back to this and am a little suprised to find discussions still active. I stand by my original comments.I used to have fogs back as far as the '60s when we really did have fog and then they were useful when it was barely possible to drive at about 5mph with the heads off and the fogs aimed at the kerb and white line. The highway code is quote clear on this subject but does not define what is sever fog. My view is that it is severe if you cannot drive safely in excess of 30mph so I find it difficult to excuse anyone who drives at 90 with all lights blazing. Dipped headlights should be used to let people ahead see you. Fog lights can cause serious dazzle and that is certainly not productive. I challenge anyone to claim that fog lights help you to see where you are going at speeds over 30mph when they only light up the road for about 30 feet if they are correctly adjusted. I can also argue effectively that rear fogs should only be used in daylight fog but that is another matter. Nope. Their only use now is for show and that really works to display the mentality of the user.

I have in the past posted mine around for loan but you can buy these things for

Not quite sure what you were saying in your last post and not sure what model you have but mine is a 52 115 TDI and when the pump went it would tick over all day without overheating and was quite happy around town and on the motorway up to about 55/60 but above that and on long hills it would overheat. Fans coming on after switching off - I had that on my old 110 unit and that was the temperature sender which is a 2 part thingy but the temperature gauge bit was OK and it neither overheted or indicated hotter than normal although it did stop the glow plugs coming on - only noticable in the winter. Hpe this helps.

Up to the point where you said the brushes had disintegrated I was going to suggest looking for a piece of copper braid about 2" long which connects the feed from the the input connection into the bowels of the starter. Mine just dissappeared one day and I repaired it with a several pieces of coax cable braid and a large hot soldering iron. I only knew that it had once existed by looking very closely at the connections. But if the brushes are gone......... :D

Some simple answers... They are not all the same. I got one when mine (98 110) got smashed but it had extra cut outs which I filled with bits of the old one. They do seem to be much the same as far as general shape and easy enough to adapt if necessary. I think they are easy to get as they are too big to ship easily and most breakers are glad to get rid of them. I got mine (collect only) FOC from the same regular Ebayer who supplied the steering pump. It was a case of asking nicely but I do think he was suprised to see the back of it. At

Paul123, Just in case you've missed the point about regassing, and there is a lot that has been written, the answer to DIY is not to bother. I tried that and wasted about

Just a good light, a magnifying glass, a hot fine tipped soldering iron, some good quality fine multicore solder and a lot of care I'm afraid. It is worth focussing your attention on anything that may be subject to a bit of stress/movement like battery connections and button connections.

The Vol IDs I have are ISEN9904 and ISEN0401 if that helps. I'm using XP.

I had a similar problem when I downloaded a 2004 version from s website. I cannot remember the details but it had somthing to do with matching the install program to the version. I believe that the problem was due to the volume ID of the disc had to be matched to the version. I worked it out by using the volume ID of the original as a pattern for the new one replacing, in my case, 98 by 04. In order to do this I had to copy all of the files to a new disc with the correct Vol ID. I also had another problem. I had, at that time both a '98 and a 52 Galaxy and the 04 version of TIS did not have all of the earlier details. It is not possible to install both versions and, when I re-installed the 98 version, I found that quite a lot of bits of information were still missing. This persisted even after several install/uninstall attempts. Eventually, after leaving it for several weeks and a few disc compresses and another re-installation, it seems to have recovered but unfortunately the old bus has since died so I am just hoping that it is a long time before I need the TIS information for the remaining Gal. I hope this helps.

There seems to be something strange. I have lost (and found again) the chip out of my key and on every occasion the ignition light comes on and the engine will not crank so, just in case, if not proved otherwise, do not discount this possibility. When chngng the battery, I assume you mean the car batery and not the handset. The latter will have no effect and if the main battery is dead or the engine is siezed, therewill be a click and the lights will dim when the starter is operated.

The 2 sensors are in one unit which plugs in to the cooling system with an O ring to stop leaks. It is held in place by a spring clip. The wiring tends to get very brittle so beware of breaks which can add to your problems. The earth connection is the most likely to fail. It is a frustrating problem and itdoes not generate any fault codes so, if it is a result of action by the ECU then it must be a programmed reaction to something considered to be relatively normal and associated with a hot engine. The only ones which makes any sense to me is the possibility of fuel in the exhaust system and some condition which simulates over-run when I believe the fuel supply to the injectors is reduced to zero to reduce fuel consumption and the risk of unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust system. Sadly, this is just guesswork and I cannot suggest any particular items to check as I have no experience in this area. You have already done well to indicate that it is probably a control problem by removing the hot engine signal. I'm afraid you're on your own now unless you can stimulate interest from some of the much better informed members. Good luck, Ron.

The first thing to eliminate is the chip in the key. Do you have a spare key. It is common for the chip to drop out of the key with the remote on if the remote section is separated either by accident or when changng batteries.

Sorry, I can't see the starter having anything to do with this probem. The fact that it is OK if you disconnect the temperature sensor suggests that it is some sort of reaction to the indicated temperature. One thing worth looking at, but difficult to prove without replacing it (