sasquartch

Many thanks !!

Does anyone know what type of batteries are in a Galaxy keyfob, mine is a 2005 model. I seem to remember there are at least 2 very thin 'coin' type cells. I don't have the vehicle with me today but really want to buy some today - does anyone know what type they are ?

Has anyone fitted a CK-7W Nokia kit to a Mk 2 ?? I have a Mk 2 2005 TDi Silver (basically base LX spec) and whilst reasonably competent with wiring and so on wondered if anyone has any thoughts on the following : Where to mount various components, ie mike, button, control unit and speaker. Could the button be mounted on one of the black blanking plates below the heated screen switches ? If I get a cradle for my wifes phone (Nokia 6233) can I still use it in wireless mode ? Where is best place for cradle ? Has anyone any pictures ? I'm keen to achieve a neat installation !! so any advice welcome.

The correct way to start a diesel (I have a 115TDI 2005 model) as far as I know, is to turn the ignition to the 'on' position, then wait until the yellow light (glow plug light ???) goes off. Only then should you turn the engine over to start it. My wife seems completely oblivious to this and don't think she's ever followed this procedure. The car has always started fine but does it cause any damage not to wait for the light to go out ? The car always starts fine, even in frosty conditions although like most diesels always sound pretty rough for a few minutes until it warms up. My concern is that it might harm or shorten the life of something.

Because the rack is about 100 miles away - if I know it definitely won't fit then I won't bother making a journey to try it out !!

A friend has a genuine VW bike rack (the one that clamps to the tailgate) for a Mk 1 Sharan. Does anyone know whether this will fit a Mk 2 Galaxy ? I don't have a spoiler on the Gal. Any advice welcome !

I have a 115 Manual and it's performance is fine. If you want a true performance car you A. wouldnt buy a Gal, and B. wouldn't buy a diesel I bought a totally bog standard 115 as anything even a little bit 'special' always seems to cost loads more in spare parts etc - as mine is a 'bus' mainly to ferry the kids around it does the job just fine.

Would be interesting to know if an auxiliary heater will be fitted !! I think the new Gal is totally Ford, based on a stretched C-Max or Mondeo platform so unlikely to be any VW bits.

Masked Maurader has helped me in the past, also he is advertising the fact he has VAG.COM He's the kind of guy we need on the forum - so what if he's no longer a Shalaxhambra owner ? Let's not be so agressive ! :huh: ;)

Performance is a pretty subjective thing - certainly the Mk 1 V6's put out a fair bit less power than the later ones (170 vs 200bhp or thereabouts) What do you call fine or excessive performance ?

Looking back over the forum postings and found this : http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...wtopic=1578&hl= So seems a recurring problem not confined to a particular production date

sounds like wheel bearings to me. Probably the RH bearing as this will be loaded more heavily on left turns No experience of these on the Galaxy but other cars I have owned have suffered from this.

great result ! I think if people were more persistent then eventually main dealers will improve their service !

yes, just caught myself spending several minutes errm, admiring it

mumof4 I think it sounds like you have a straightforward striker plate problem - if the door isn't been pulled in tight to the doorseal then it's pretty much a simple job to loosen the bolts and move the striker in a bit. You will need a splined (torx ??) tool for the bolts but are easily available

Playpen, seems exactly same problem as mine. Mine is March 2005 but was probably built late 2004 as I waited for a 05 plate. When at the dealer today he did say this wasn't unheard of and it seems reasonable to assume the Alhambra/Sharan?galaxy bodyshells all come off the same line. So probably a manufacturing tolerance issue ?? Interesting you say the operation of the door handle feels different, this is exactly the same as mine. Having had a good look this lunchtime I have decided the problem is that the door is probably 1-2mm low, and as it closes it has to slide up slightly over the rubbers. It is better when the drivers door is open but no different when another door is open so I think it's the friction of the door rubber rather than any vacuum effect. I'm going to try lubricating the rubber seals with some silicone spray to see if that helps, I think it's still possible that as the seals wear slightly the problem will lessen.

Well the Ford dealer bodyshop looked at it and confirmed what marcus said, ie there is no hinge adjustment. He even said they'd had a few cases of this so possibly its down to manufacturing tolerances over a particular period of time. Basically the only adjustment is heaving and tugging - which they must have done because the fit is better than it was, although not perfect. The door still has a tendency to bounce but if pushed shut all the way it only needs gentle pressure to shut properly. He said to see how it goes for a week as the door seal still needs to adapt to the re-adjusted door - but if no better to bring back. He said doors atre prone to 'vacuum' ie will shut better when another door or window if open - however not really convinced that is the problem, it just exacerbates it. So, whilst still not perfect it's better than it was - they've definitely not given up so I have to say the dealer (Evans Halshaw, Welwyn) has been OK so far, it's important to give them a chance to resolve everything. Once again, customer service fine, polite, tea, coffee etc whilst I waited. Will report back.......

Well it's booked in for the Fraud dealer to look at tomorrow. As far as I'm concerned, they'll have to do whatever it takes to rectify the problem, either the door hinges are out (seems unlikely as the door shut lines all look fine when the door is shut) or the window frame need s adjustment in some way. It's been like this from new. I'll report back when resolved .......

I've had this problem with my 2005 Galaxy from new where the drivers side passenger door will not shut easily. It can be slammed shut but unless done firmly the door catch bounces on the striker and is left half shut. This is incredibly annoying as the kids rarely manage to shut it first time so I have to get out of the car and shut it again myself (as child locks are on) It had it's first service last week and they assured me this had been looked at but no difference. I'm going to get them to look at it again but thought I'd try and investigate a little before I spoke to them so as to be at least a little bit informed. The passenger side rear door shuts fine and looking at this the door is definitely different to the drivers side in its adjustment. The door edge seems pretty much parallel all the way along, ie the top of the door next to the roof is at the same distance away from the seal as it shuts. However the drivers side door top touches the top before the bottom, the door is already making contact with the body before the lock is in proper contact. I'm pretty sure this is the root cause. I've searched the forum and can't find anything (maybe I've missed something obvious) and can't see any procedure that anyone has used in the past, also I have bought a TIS disk and can't see anything in there. Does anyone know where the adjustment procedure is the TIS disk. If someone can point me to the required section I can work out the rest. Or what is involved in adjusting it. The Ford dealer will probably try and tell me the striker plate needs adjustment but I'm convinced it's more involved. If anyone can help I'd be grateful - it's really the only problem I've had with the Galaxy, otherwise it has met my expectations, especially fuel economy.

Where is the Gates branch that you use ?

I never there were underfloor compartments - is this only on particular models ?

Well the Ford Dealer rang me back to see if I was happy with the service I had yesterday, have decided the drivers side back door still isnt quite right (passenger side seems much better now) so they said would be happy to look at it again. Has anyone else had any experience of adjusting doors or striker plates ? The problem is with mine (and has been since new) is that door really needs a good slam or 'bounces' and only half shuts if that makes sense. Strangely it's much easier to shut with drivers door open so is either air pressure within car or something to do with rubber seal. I need to investigate further at weekend ! Hopefully Ford will sort it out anyway. But at least dealer is being pro-active !

SK I'm sure you're right, but at least I know things like my brake pads have been checked, it's really an insurance for me to make sure I can take advantage of the three year warranty should something expensive go tits up.

Well I think that it's a bit more than an oil and filter change, that's just the parts that were used. The main reason for a Ford service was to make sure that in the event of any warranty claims there would be no problem if the vehicle has been service 'by the book' But, yes,

My 115TDi manual will quite happily do 30mph in 5th, the diesel is much rougher than a petrol engine but even at 1500rpm theres plenty of pulling power. If the engine will readily pull from such low revs then I dont think it's straining it. I'm normally in 5th by 40 at the most anyway but 6th is only really for 60mph+