sasquartch

One drawback is that you should really tell your insurance company - as the car is now modified from standard there might be a loading on the premium.

I suspect at least one of my driveshafts has gone as I am getting a pronounced wobble on the steering wheel which fells like a 'tug' on the steering wheel for each revolution of the road wheel. About 2 years ago I replaced the n/s shaft with a Q-drive part from ECP as I had a split inner gaitor as it was so cheap for the entire shaft. Last year the o/s inner gaitor split so I used a new boot on the original shaft from the n/s and fitted that, all seemed ok. I will shortly be investigating the fault but a mechanic friend told me there should be no play in the inner joints so that's what I'll check. Questions : Are ECP Q-drive shafts any good. With discount these are only about 50 quid each. ? Is it asking for trouble to swap a n/s and o/s shaft (as they've rotated in opposite directions) ? It seems a common issue on the 1.9TDI 115. The car is a 2005 and has done only 83000 miles from new. Any advice welcomed :-)

Are you sure it has a DMF ? Afaik it's only the 130 engines that have DMF, the 115's have a solid flywheel.

Thanks for the update. No I did not dismantle the spindles. I just greased the other joints in the linkage and checked the motor moved freely. I think you are right about the drivers side spindle, it definitely runs slightly warm so although it's not seized it probably needs stripping and greasing as you suggest. Will have to take the motor / linkage out for a second time I guess :-(

I have a 2005 TDi I noticed recently that the wiper seems to stop quite a bit short of the A pillar. Not sure how long it's been like this as I rarely drive the car (wife's) Looking on here it seems common that the linkage seizes up so I have removed this and greased everything up, all moves freely and no worn bushes I can see, all looks good. No difference, I am sure the wiper arms are correctly aligned and can't detect any play anywhere in the linkage or spindles. Any ideas ? The TIS doesn't have anything about this Thanks

Just managed to find my TIS disk. Studied the wiring diagrams and it seems there definitely should be resistance between all pins If anyone has a good resistor for sale please let me know :-)

Bought a resistor pack (second hand) on ebay. Arrived today and checked it with a ohmmeter - there is resistance between pins 1,2 and 4 but nothing to pin 3 Tried it anyway and it doesnt work (as expected), slightly different fault as aircon only comes on on position 1 and the fan only runs on pos 3 and 4. So I've just put the original one back in and will have to get a refund on the one I've just bought. Can anyone confirm that all 4 pins should buzz out ? I'm probably just going to bite the bullet and buy a new one from Ford - or am I better off going to VW ?

Many thanks, that's the exact problem I'm seeing. I'll go and remove it now and get a replacement - I'll report back with the outcome :-)

I've done a search but can't find the exact problem. I have a 2005 TDi with manual aircon (ie NOT Climatronic) The heater fan does not work at all on pos 1 and 2, but appears fine on pos 3 and 4. The strange thing is that if I set the fan to postion 1 or 2 and turn the heater control to the defrost position the front heated screen demister comes on (as expected) and also the aircon comes on (as expected), As mentioned, the fan doesnt come on. BUT when I turn the fan up to pos 3 or 4 the fan starts but the aircon goes off and cannot be turned on until the fan is turned down to 1 or 2. I'm reasonably I can hear the aircon compressor comes on when the aircon light is on. Would this be caused by the resistor ? I can't find any reference to this causing the aircon to go off when the fan comes on. It has never been a problem before (I've owned the car from new) Has anyone got any ideas ? Would anything likely show up with vag.com ? All and any input welcomed :-)

Has no-one else experienced cv boot failure at this sort of age ?

I have a 2005 TDI 6-speed which I've owned from new, now done 70k miles. Last year, before the MOT I noticed that the nearside inner CV boot had split. I replaced the whole driveshaft with a replacement (only about 50 quid from ECP). Servicing the car the other day I've noticed the inner CV boot on the offside has now split. Not a massively difficult job to do but suprised that both boots have gone in a such a relatively short time. I can't see how the wear can be anything more than a fucnction of distance travelled and 70k isn't really a high mileage. Has anyone else had similar experiences ? Other than than the aux heater which hasn't worked for years this is really the only fault I've had with the car from new.

Would this do it ? http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0012MEJN4/ref=asc_df_B0012MEJN46462764?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B0012MEJN4

Thanks. It's not a 30mm socket as I have one already and it's too big. Will take the bolt to the shop and see what size socket fits. It's really the size of the tool needed for the driveshaft flange bolts I'm interested in.

I'm about to replace the nearside driveshaft on my 2005 TDI (6 speed) Does anyone know what size of splined bit I need for the driveshaft bolts (6 bolts attaching shaft to gearbox) and the wishbone (2 bolts) ?? Also what size socket required for the big bolt ? (probably 26, 27 or 28mm) Any advice welcomed

Thanks. I did look at the TIS and it said to remove steering tie-rod - is this strictly necessary ? What holds the CV joints onto the shaft ? I think what you're saying is that the inner one stays put and I slide the new boot along the shaft over the inner joint, then replace the outer joint and re-assemble - is that correct ? Do I need new drive shaft nut ? Any other consuambles needed ?

Noticed today my n/s inner CV boot has a split in it and is leaking oil. Any one have any idea what's involved in replacing this ? Any how-to guides anywhere ?

thanks - I don't I'll go far wrong :35:

Time for a 60k service soon and as far as I can tell the fuel filter may never have been changed. Is this easy to change ? Where is it located ? Are there any special procedures to bleed the fuel or anything like that after changing it ? Any advice welcomed as I have never done this job before.

I have vag.com (well the free VCDS version) which works fine. Do you know if I can use this on another (non-VAG) vehicle with OBD-II socket ? A friend has a Hyundai that needs the codes read (it has a coil pack problem) and wondered if I might be able to help. Any advice welcomed :o

Sounds like air in the system assuming you have no leaks. Would suggest you bleed the system after thoroughly checking for leaks at each wheel and master cylinder. That's pretty easy and cheap and may be the solution. If that doesn't help it sounds like the master cylinder.

To be fair to the tyre centre I used, I returned the car to them and they immediately admitted they'd overfilled it once I'd pointed out it only had single aircon. The guy had seen the auxiliary heater controls and assumed that meant it had dual aircon. They emptied out and refilled correctly and it seems to be working fine now.

Thanks for the reply I don't have dual aircon. I definitely don't have the vents in the roof and given that mine is a 'Silver' model, basically a slightly tarted up LX I would expect all equipment to be basic So, it sounds like it's over gassed if what they said about 1200grammes is true. BTW, the figure of 290 grammes is what they said was in the system before they recharged it - I've owned the car from new and know the system has never been looked at before. So it's leaked 460 grammes in 5 or so years, it was manufactured 11/04 although registered 1/3/2005 WHere did you get the figure of 750 grammes from ? It would be useful to be able to quote this to the garage. It sounds like, in retrospect, a local tyre place wasn't the best place to go despite sounding so knowledgable :o But I'll take it back and see what they say.

The aircon on my 2005 TDI (manual aircon) did not seem to work at all when I tested it a few weeks ago. Other than the switch lighting up when I pressed the AC button nothing happened. So, whilst getting my tyres changed I noticed my tyre centre offered a aircon recharge service for 40.00 which I had done about 10 days ago. It definitely seemed to be working OK after it was done although it was a fairly cool day anyway. Today in 20-25C heat I really needed the aircon - turned it on and no cooled air. More worrying is that you can hear what I assume is the compressor cutting in for a few seconds then out again every 10 seconds or so. If just crawling along at 5mph in first I can even feel it, it's almost as though the compressor when it cuts in is sapping a large aount of power from the engine for an instant. When idling you can see the rev counter dip. It definitely didn't do this before it was re-gassed. Vag.com shows no fault codes as far as I can tell Does anyone have any ideas what the cause might be. Could it be over charged even and a hot day was too much for it ? The tyre place said (I think) it had about 290 grammes of gas before they recharged it and about 1200 grammes afterwards. Does this sound right ? They also said there was a dye that would mean any leaks could be dtected. I'm taking it back next week but wanted to try and find what the problem might be in case they've done something wrong. Any advice welcome :o