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big_kev

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Everything posted by big_kev

  1. The xp ones work fine in vista. ( versions 311 or 409 ) You may need to run them in Admin mode. Nearly all the Vista problems are USB/Serial port related.
  2. Aaah......Understand ! ( back of a lorry job methinks ) ;)
  3. Which module reported the alarm ? Can't see this having anything to do with the aux. heater..!
  4. Where did you get it from ( assuming some sort of online/mail order dealer ) ?
  5. Welcome to the forum. Are you sure you checked the right fuses ? Which make/model/year do you have ?
  6. Seen this assume its the same kit http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=260533049722
  7. Or try here... http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/
  8. You could try here http://www.cats-direct-shop.co.uk/ or here http://www.leisureshack.co.uk/ There may be 2 different type of Cat's on the MK1 tdi's.
  9. Any of the cables that claim to work with either an Alhambra, Sharan or Galaxy should be fine.
  10. Hope this helps....if not visit ross-tech for further info.
  11. I typed his in and got 8,000 hits.. ;) I then typed yours in and got over 190,000... :o ........strangely not as many porn sites as I thought there would be..!
  12. Answer : Nowt.....I'm married..
  13. Looks an interesting project. I was tinkering with doing this on my Mk1....when I fix my heater ;) Good luck for the weekend.
  14. Slide the front passenger seat fully forward. Lift up the flap underneath ( probably a piece of carpet). The control box should be obvious, there nowt else of any size in there......other than sweety wrappers and possibly a puddle. It is also possible that there is no control box there and just 2 or 3 suspicious plugs with nothing to connect to......someones had your control box away ;) Do you have working central locking ?
  15. Sounds like a classic sticking thermostat. Don't know if the water still flows to the heater matrices even with a stuck thermostat. This may be enough to prevent over heating.
  16. Might just be frozen ?
  17. This thread....below...may help http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=9176 M & M 's pdf attachment looks extremely useful
  18. Its not blown a fuse has it ?
  19. You can try this link below http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=5194 or do a search for bonnet cable
  20. Citizens advice link below http://www.adviceguide.org.uk/index/your_w...nd_vehicles.htm and attached pdf document below c_secondhand_cars.pdf
  21. Good point....IIRC Vagcom only tested the fuel pump and air blower, it didn't test the auxilliary water pump.
  22. First you need to make sure that windows recognises the lead ( assuming its a USB one ) and assigns a serial / Com port number to it....you will most likely need to either download the drivers/software or hopefully the lead came with some. Secondly you need to download Vagcom from www.ross-tech.com, it is likely to be version 311 or 409 that you will require ( may be a later version if your lead is compatible ), again it may have been supplied with the lead. You will need the lead connected to the car ( and ignition on ) for vagcom to recognise the lead.
  23. Very nice to meet you and John....feel free to pop around anytime. Plenty of biscuits leftover from xmas......some from last xmas as well ! Hopefully John's booster heater will spring to life when his engine cools down. If not I am sure he will be able to interrogate it further when his vagcom lead turns up. Like his motor as well :rolleyes: looks good......the swap is still on if he fancies a Mk1 instead.. :lol: All the best. Kev
  24. Yep, and you have a pm.
  25. Don't mix the different antifreeze types. You should completely drain and renew you coolant every 2 years or 40,000 miles whichever is sooner.....this would be the ideal time to change types. Chlorine in tap water may damage aluminium engine components, distilled water is best or leave tap water for a couple of days to let the chlorine evaporate. In practice however, everyone just uses tap water......
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