Steven.Langdale

Could the problem be the torque converter?

That would be great :angry: Sounds like idling for a few mins will get up to temp then. I'll await your figures. Thanks Steven

All Theres been a lot of talk recently about topping-up / replacing the auto tansmission fluid, and a procedure of how to do it. The question I have is what do you need to do to get the fluid to the correct temp? I've got no means of checking it via FDS/VagCom, so what do I need to do? Would going through the gears a couple of times get to temp or a whip around the block etc.. Thoughs?? Thanks Steven

All How warm is "warmed up"? TIS is specific about the temp, but I have no way of reading the temp electronically. Would a 5 min run around the block get the box hot enough for instance? It would also appear, from wytonpjs's experience, that a change will only take 3.5L , has anyone else experienced this? I don't want to buy too much. Thanks Steven

There are, but I wan't to lift the whole of the front end, not just one side. There should be somewhere in the middle I can lift from.

Hello all Maybe a bit of a daft question, but where is the jacking point for the front of the car? I want to jack it up and use some axel stands so don't want to raise one side at a time. I've looked at the ropey diagram on TIS and can't really make out where it's pointing too. My excuse is that it's dark outside! I think I'm OK with the axel stand points, it's just getting the car up in the air in the 1st place. Thanks all.

Guys Just installed and fm modulator myself. I think the word "installed" is a bit of overkill though, as this one is wireless. I bought one from ebay, do a search for "fm modulator mp3". The same guy is selling loads. As you will see, it plays mp3's (128k highest frequency) and has a line in for your DVD etc. I'm really impressed, it looks pretty good, and sounds great. I didn't want to go for one that is installed into the arial feed as apparently they can block the current TO the arial which powers a small amp. It was

The Pump is behind the passenger side front indicator. Check the pipe comming out of the front of it is OK and not split. Steven

They shouldn't sweep, mine do only if the battery has been disconnected. I think there must be a working live feed. Have you had the instrument cluster out and given the connectors a bit of a waggle? You never know. Steven

All Another update :lol: I was a bit premature thinking I'd fixed it, cos it stopped again. It was the switch on the brake pedal, swapped it out and it works perfectly. kd035050 was right, you do need the hands of a gynocologist to get the switch out. Got mine out half way and it stuck!! It was much easier with the brake light switch off as well. All the grazes on my hand and wrist from the fuse box mounting are nearly all healed as well :lol: Thanks for the tips. Steven

Mine does this if I remove the battery. When you turn the ingnition on, do all the dials sweep to max then back down? It sounds like there should be a perm live to the instrument panel and it's not there. Let us know the answer to the above question, it may help. Steven

The boot wont open with the key in the ignition (aparently this is just incase you happen to stop at some lights in Merseyside :huh: ), could it be this? Steven

seatkid I'd say thats pretty clear :(

Bobski If your going to leave it and see what happens, take an allenkey & screwdriver with you. Just incase you get stuck somewhere! As I said before, I don't think the break lights would affect starting. But a broken brake light switch WILL stop you moving the selector. With the engine running, press the brakes, you will hear a click from the bottom of the selector. this is a solenoid releasing it. it will click back on a couple of seconds after you take your foot of the brake. It's to stop you doing silly things like engage drive with no brakes and therfore leap into you garage door ;) Steven

I'd go for timing chain, maybe the tensioners knackerd, get someone to open it up and look at it ASAP.

I had a simmilar problem with mine, there is a switch in the base of the gear/drive selector that will inhibit engine start if you have the selector button pressed in. It could be that. Basically what Neil said. I don't think the brake light switch is involved here, that being faulty will stop you moving the selector, not stop you starting. As Neil said, give the selector a move around and see what happens. Have you got a Hanes manual? it describes adjusting it in there (in the manual it's called the "starter inhibitor switch). Steven

I'm getting confused here :) Are the brake light not working when the selector won't move, and are when it will? Or are they completely broken? Just get a new brake light switch, they are only a few quid and easy to change. The instructions on TIS or a Haynes manual are easy to follow. Steven

I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong :) But is it a good idea flushing the engine? are you just going to move all the crud around and block something? It could be the oil pickup, same thing happend on my old Gal. Whilst I didn't remove the sump and clean the pickup myself, my local garage did it for

Hello You didn't say, when you can't move the selector, are the brake lights working? Steven

An update Disconnected the battery for a mniute, and no difference. As sad_git said, it's not low gas as the dealer re-gassed it (not that it needed it). I'm off on holiday to France in a couple of weeks, so will be on touch with one of you guys who kindly offered to plug in their vag-com and take a look at it when I get back. I'll pick up some beers on the way past Calais :blink: Thanks all Steven

Velcrohead Thanks for that, I'll be in touch after a go with the fuse... Steven

All Thanks for the kind offers! One thought struck me though, will VAG-COM work on my motor? it's a pre-facelift with a 2.3 engine. Does it have enough VW bits in it for VAG-COM to work? I've found my radio code (just incase) so will have a go at removing the fuse to reset it. I'll see if that cures it...... dipsomaniac, I'm not worried about it. I'm just nosey :lol: Thanks Steven

Hello all the title said it all. My cliimate control flashes on startup, but works perfectly. Local Ford garage had a look, said it was all working fine, but after talking to Ford tech support said to stop the flashing I'd need a new CC unit. They want

Ivor My mistake, I didn't notice the car in question was a Mk II. I'd be amazed that they changed the design so much that you had to take the steering wheel off to replace a bulb. Having said that, I'm amazed quite often! Steven

Hello I'd take the instrument panel out and give the connectors a waggle, you never know and its dead easy to do. Are you sure ALL the lights are out? When I got mine it was nearly dark, just the temp and fuel were lit, the other 3-4 (cant remember) big bulbs that light the rest had all blown. it only took 20 mins to swap them. Steven