Steven.Langdale

Hello all Following on to my recent thread about power loss on my 2.3 MK1 - which i've just about fixed! I have another problem which I think may be doen to the ICV. In short, how far is it supposed to move? With no voltage it's slightly open (about 1mm ish) With 12 volts supplied to it, it's opens a further 1mm (ish) Is it supposed to be slightly open? and is it supposed to open up all the way with 12v supplied? It's clean and you can manually move the plunger all the way. Thanks

Hello all An update... First of all, a big thank you to everyone that posted, cos the main problem is fixed!!! Got the car back from the dealer, no charge - still got the same fault! I decided to bite the bullet (as I was going on a long journey and needed it fixed) and bought new MAF, Coil packs and O2 sensor. I replaced the MAF and coil packs as soon as I got them, all worked OK but I couldn't take it out for a long run. Replaced O2 sensor last weekend. Just been on a long weekend and about 500 miles round trip and the fault has gone. I'm 99% sure it was a coil pack but replaced the lot anyway. I'm also setting around 31mpg on a long run now instead of 28 so i'm assuming the O2 sensor was on it's way out. Unfortuntely here's the BUT...... Since the O2 replacement (and battery disconnect for 20 mins) the car has difficulty idling after a restart when hot. When cold it's perfect but when you start it from hot you have to give it a little gas or the engine will just die. After 10-15 seconds of keeping the revs up (1000-1200) it will go into drive and be perfect. Doesn't stall at junctions etc. I did think it may be the ICV but as all was OK before the O2 sensor replacement and battery disconnect I'm not so sure. It was not a ford O2 sensor but is a direct replacment according to the guys I got it from. Any ideas much appreciated ;) Thanks Steven

All A quick update. Had a look at the coil packs - nothing obvious (no surprise there) Got the Local Ford dealer to look at it (they owe me a freebie after they tried to fob me of with a car with a split brake vacume pipe, and therefore not much in the way of brakes!) Getting it back from them on Monday, they recon is was the fuel filter. Not too sure it's that myself, but it cost me nothing and they did say they'd look again if it came back. I'm beginning to think it would be easier to just relace the O2 sensor and coilpacks/HT's - anyone know where these are available apart from Ford? Steven

After a quick hunt about, I came to a similar conclusion. If it's not obvoius, I may have to take a punt and replace one or both and see what happens.... Thanks

Thanks for the replies guys, will have a look tomorrow morning and see what the look like. Steven

I'm sure it's probably not good etiquette to bump your own posts, but I'm in need of some help here if possible. Has nobody got any ideas on this one? Thanks again Steven

All It is a Ford documented "feature" that you will get AUX drive belt slippage in the wet with no undertray. It's on the TIS CD somewhere. Steven

This definitely sounds like relay 30 - had the same problem on 2 Gals so far. You will be able to turn the engine over but it will not fire - no power to fuel pump = no fuel. Change it ASAP or it will go completely at the most inconvenient moment (like a car full of kids!) You could just open up the relay and resolder the dry joints - worked for me. Thanks Steven

Hello all, been a long time since I was on here! Got a strange problem with my MKI (2000) 2.3 Auto Galaxy. On short journeys of less that 20 miles the car runs perfectly, but anything over that, when you hit 25-30 miles you get sudden power loss that comes and goes. It's all working but just no guts. It will do this for either split seconds, so you can feel a judder like you are taking you foot off and on ther accelerator fast or lasts for 10-15 seconds where you basically have to floor it to keep going. after about 10mins / 10 miles give or take it will be fine and not happen for the rest of the journey. I was thinking it may be something heat related? I dont think its the auto box as it seems to run fine for the rest of the time. I took it into my local Ford dealer who found some throttle related codes and replaced the throttle cable (which, it has to be said is better now) but the fault is still there. Not that I thought that would fix it anyway. Any ideas folks? Thanks Steven

Fauds Sell them for around

The '95 2L Gal I got rid of a few months back had 189K on the clock and still on the original clutch. Steven

All Relay 30 on the MK1 is called (in TIS) K108 (Power relay). There IS a K108 (Power Relay) on the MKII, and also the MKI post '98 model. It is also called R27 on the MKI post '98 and C39 on the MKII. It "appears" to do the same thing and is the top right relay on the BOTTOM relay panel. How you actually get to the bottom relay problem is beyond me atm :D It looks like a few screws and it all drops down... Though this has been covered before i'm sure. Good luck Steven

One other thing. The CC will not start the aircon part if the temp is at or below 5DEG. Make sure the outside temp is highter than that 1st. Steven

As bigdaddy has said, flashing means "something" is wrong. I'm not sure what compressor you have on yours as your have a VW engine. but you cna deffinately hear the compressor kick in (with drop in engine revs) when going from ECON TO AUTO. Someone has recently said that the VW compressors are variable volume and therfore are always "on" Anyone with a VW care to confirm/deny this????? Its is "probably" low gas, but may not be, mine flashes because it has a problem with the memory in the CC unit. VAG-COM can read the error though, which willl tell you exactly what the problem is. Where abouts are you?? maybe someone close by will read the codes for you. I'd be more than happy if your not miles away :( Steven

Hatter How do you engage the cruise again? does the set button work? Steven

Snap!! So is mine :ph34r: I like the colour, the Mrs. doesn't like it. She recons its purple, but who am I to judge, I'm colour blind!! Steven

On the left side of the label there is a column of 7 small boxes, box 14 is 2nd up from the bottom. Steven

Get touchup paint from a Ford dealer, doesn't cost a lot and is a very good match. Steven

Hello I have a MKI, fo you press the windscreen button the air is direcred to the screen and the auto goes off. Thats what it's supposed to do. The windscreen heating does not come on, you have to press the other button for that B) Steven

How do you engage it again then? via the set button?

El Dingo, That one didn't occur to me :) Mine is the same, thicker filter and the frame with the mod to stop the water getting in. It just wouldn't fit!! Changing the head Gasket on my ond 106 was easier! and that was the 1st time i'd ever done anything like it. I really can't understand why they make a consumable like a poxy filter so difficult to change. Steven

Chromedome, If you look eariler in the thread, you'll see what Fords answer to it is. TIS states that you drill holes, not hack big lumps as these cowboys seem to have done Steven

After all the hassle it took me to replace mine last time (made worse because the new filter is an odour one and thicker). I'd be sorely tempted to get the old one out and leave it!! :rolleyes: Apparently is is doable without, but I ended up unbolting and pulling forward the wiper assembly to do it. Steven

You car is a 98????? It looks like F19 does the central locking, but i wouldn't have thought thr fuse had gone if you cna hear them engaging. Don't know it it's of any help, but I managed to get my cental clocking to do this while replacing a lock barrel. I basically put it in the wrong way round so the actuator couldn't turn it fully. I think it had 2-3 goes at locking the doors, than gave up on them, all. It could be that there is something stopping one of the locks engaging...??? Steven

Just had a look at TIS, they "nearly" followed the correct procedure. It looks like you dont remove the whole radiator assembly to get the condenser out, you need to drill 16mm holes in the radiator grille opening panel where it covers the retaining screws. It looks like they have just hacked the bits off. This may be a bit of ammo, they didn't follow Fords procedure to do the job. Steven