Steven.Langdale

Mint Is it a 4 speed box? I think it is at that age car. I've got VAG-COM (recently, so quite new at it) and am in Cambridgeshire. Where are you? I'm, sure there are guys here that are nearer that would be more than willing to help. Alternatively, you could try and find a local auto transmission specialist to see how much he'd charge to plug it into his kit. Steven

All Just been having a hunt around the net with google on this one (I'm supposed to be washing the car, but it's freezing out!). Firstly, woul dI be right in assuming you have an AG4 gearbox? This would appear to be the torque converter lockup clutch sticking. As others have stated, the car will, and should creep when in drive, but should not be difficult to hold or stall the engine. It looks like the cluch is not disengaging. Apparently there is a measure in VAG-COM to lok at the amount of slip (or not) in that particular clutch - have you got access to VAG-COM? Thoughts anyone? Steven

Porkstone To be honest, I can't really remember! My current Gal is still on the same set of tyres that it had when I bought it, but I've only done 7-8K in it. I used to do about 18K a year in the old one and cant remember repacing them for a couple of years. To be honest though, it is a bit hazey! Steven

Porkstone What does the handbook state the required tyres are? Just looked at my Gal an the current tyres are H's. I'd go with the H's but check the handbook - you don't want an accident and the insurance not paying out because you had the wrong tyres. You never know with these insurance companies! Don't know about you current tyres, but I get on well with Continentals, god knows what they cost at the moment though! Steven

Thats bad news! My current Gal is the 1st auto I've had, and whilst I love the auto - the thought of it breaking does worry me. You could do a lot worse than getting someone to connect it to their laptop and VAG-COM to see what the autobox thinks is wrong. I'd be happy to oblige if needed, and I'm sure there are plenty of others here as well who would too. Where abouts are you. Steven

Couple of bits to add: 1. There were, and are no strange noises from the CV's 2. I don't know when the grease got out, could have been last week or 5 months ago. Steven

All A bit of a long one here, so please be patient! In June of this year, I took my Gal into the local Ford dealer beacuse of a faint drone noise from the front end. They played about with the car on and off for 2 days. checking the CV joints, drive shafts etc. They finally came to the conclusion that it was the wheel bearings, and changed them. This fixed the noise - so all is fine. Last week whilst doing an oil change and service, I noticed a fair amount of grease around the steeering ends and the inside of the front wheel rims that lined up with the outside of the CV boots. It looked like it had been throw out under rotation. After talking to the Sevice manager and pointing out they were the last ones to work on the car in that area before the apparent leak, he advised me to bring the car in, which i did. Get a phone call to say they were ordering new CV boots and clips and were covering the cost. This tells me that the fault was due to the work they did 6 months and approx 3000 miles ago. The Dealer is saying no CV damage has occured and boot replacement and re-grease is all thats needed. How plausable it this? should I be insisting on new CV joints or some kind of mileage warranty just incase the joint(s) fail in the near future? Thoughts? Thanks Steven

Ninjakev/anyone How can you get increased performance AND mpg? Surely better performance = more fuel? Thats where the engine gets it's energy from. Am I missing something? Steven

Mark Have you just bought vag-com & a cable? Let us (me) know how you get one with it. My cable is on it's way, so I'll be playing with mine in the next few days! Also, does anyone know the difference with the frewware and $99 version of vag-com (Version 409-1) Steven

Pull out the ashtray in the center console. It's behind that. Steven

This one has been covered before. Aparently the lead & vag-com works with everthing apart from the engine ecu. I've also recently ordered a cable (we were probably all bidding on the same ones!) so hope this is true. Steven

Try this for starters..... Steven Print.pdf

Also Auto/Manual?

Mark how old is the car? Steven

There is only one on your model. From TIS it "looks" like it's right next to the CAT, so you will probably have to take the undertray off to get to it. Looks pretty simple to change though, one connector and inscrew it. As Masked Marauder has said, get a proper one. If you go to your Ford dealer they may call it a heated oxygen sensor, it's the same thing. Steven

I'm pretty sure thats the case I'm afraid :) Steven

Bigdaddy Try your local ford dealer, last 5L I bought was about

I had a bit of a squeak when I turned the wheel on my last galaxy. This was at the top of the assembly rather than the floor. It turned out to be the 2 plastic bits that cover the steering column (not sure what they are called). they had moved up a little and were rubbing on the bottom edge of the wheel. You could check there. Steven

I had a similar thing issue on my Gal, slight noise and also slight vibration, it was hardly noticeable, but irritating. Turn out to be the front wheel bearings, the local Ford garage though it was a driveshaft or CV joint initially. Maybe something to look at..... Steven

I'm pretty sure when my old galaxy wouldn't start, due to relay 30 being knackerd (dry joint - soldered it and it worked for months after) the engine would turn over but the fuel pump would not start. Do you remember if you could here the fuel pump going for a few seconds after engaging the ignition, but before you started cranking it? Steven

Don't now about the judder or video problem, but surely the instrument cluster problem should be fixed under warranty? It was reported under warranty and they were unable to fix it. I'd complain about it to ford - god knows if that will help though. Steven

I think this is one of those times when your not too happy about being right! How much is that going to cost?

Jim The whirring noise is the catch opening, there is no mechanical link betreen the handle and the mechanisme. the mech is operated with a solenoid and the handle operates a microswitch. I tend to think that adjusting the hook in the floor wont make any difference, apart from making the door difficult to shut. It was a while since I did mine, but it sounds like the switch that activates the lights is maybe bent or has moved a little. Go on get a Haynes manual - it is required bedtime reading for all members of this site! If your that tight though :angry: I can scan the pages you want and email them. Steven

Someone jump in here if it's different on the MK II - I'm very poor and only have a MK I ! The Interior light switch is next to the lock mechanism, to get to it you have to take the interior trim off. Have you got an hanes manual? It's got the instructions to remove all the bits in there. Quite easy to do, you'll be lucky if you dont manage to brake some of the pesky clips off though. Does it actually lock but the light stays on? Steven