Steven.Langdale

How many miles has it done? regular oil changes? Steven

Many thanks for the Help, Box is all sorted now and changes perfectly for the sum of

Many thanks for quick response,so my guess was way out lol. The picture i have the is 1 sensor on the top near where g/box bolts to engine,other 1 is on top other end of box near output shaft,the other one is on the side of the g/box near output approx half way down. which one is poss the vss ?? It does not seem to be in limp mode as she goes through all the gears ok up and down,just changes at 4 k revs Can you show me the pics you have?

Hello again.I have manage to get a blow up of the gearbox and there are 3 speed sensors,all identical according to friend all Number 11?? does anyone no what the 3 are for ??or which 1 tells the ecu when to change up ?? poss 1 for when to change up,1 when to change down,other 1 reverse ?? just a guess Ta Dave The VSS is (going from memory here) next to the right hand output shaft. Just above it. Of the other 2, one is the TSS that measures the Torque converter speed (going from memory again) and i cant remember what the other one does. Sufice to say, they all do different things. They are all used to work out when to change up/down. Any one failing could put the gearbox into limp home mode. Based on the diag error, I'd go for the VSS 1st. Steven

Hello Sounds like a coil pack, unfortunately the best way to test is by replacing with known good ones. GSF do them cheaper than Ford dealers (or probably any Bosch supplier come to that). As for the coolant loss, check the header cap, aparently they can loose their seal.

A worn ball joint on the lower arm can cause simmilar noises to knackerd drop links (Had both!) At least you can just change the ball jount rather than the whole arm like my focus ;) Though you normally get the clonking with that rather than something that can be felt throughout the car. Check for play in the ball joint and let us know. Steven

This sounds like it's gone into limp home mode. Get someone to read the ECU, it's a VAG autobox in the 2.3 so i'm assuming in the 2.0 as well. Had exacty the same on my 2.3, but was intermittent, so was cleared after a restart for a while. It was down to a dodgy kick down switch. The switch is not on the floor of the footwell, it's integral to the throttle cable and mounted on the bulkhead. (top left as you look under the bonnet) Steven

It may be too late but McGuard can supply you with a replacement key, even if you dont have the serial number of the original. Got one for (I think) 15 euros earlier on this year for my focus. I havd to supply a pic of the front of the reg doc and photo ID to prove who I was. Steven

Hello When the CC is activated you do hear a little click from the CC unit - i think its behind the dash on the left of the radio. God knows how difficult it is to get at tho! Mine has stopped (and therefore no click) but as I rarely drive the Gal and the wife hates CC i'm not bothering to fix it again ;) Steven

Is this the long pipe from the reciever/dryer to the expansion valve on the bulkhead? If so, I bought one of these from my local dealer about 3 months ago for

Could it be the tensioner that they changed? Or the aux drive belt tensioner or idler - assuming they disturb this to get to the cambelt. I'm pretty sure Shell do make the correct spec oil for PD engines - but best to check to me 100% sure Steven

To confirm, it wont turn over at all, rather than turns over but wont start? The non start is the relay - a faulty one stops the fuel pump from running and therefore pressurising the fuel rail. I've had the 5 beeps ones before - was a knackerd battery. I think it also indicates either a faulty cam or crank position sensor (can't remember which) the Haynes manual covers them both. Steven

Thanks for the info, I thought it might be. I may take the car to auto box specialist for diagnostics as this has been bugging me for some time. I can put up with the gears but have problems going up hills as the gears wont change. Can you explain what you mean? Is it not dropping a gear you mean?

You need to drop the sump to get to the filter. Steven

Donna Did you swap it yourself or use a garage? If garage may I ask how much out of interest? Thanks Steven

Hello Donna I'd go for the relay 1st - if you can solder, you can fix the existing one (it's generally dry joints) or a new one is pretty cheap. Whils it does look like a mare to get too, it's not too bad and pretty easy if you take your time. Had exactly the same symptoms on 2 Galaxys - both times it was the relay. Steven

Hello Is it stiff if you move the throttle lever by hand in the engine bay? Has the cable got any kinks in it? I had a stiff cable on my 2.3 auto, it was the inline kickdown switch that was busted, a new cable (with switch) was about 20 ish quid. steven

Can you be a bit clearer, you took it back and had it re-gassed, does that mean it was empty again? If so, you have a leak. They don't always show up easily on a vaccum test, I had a leak on the hight pressure side on mine (with the pipe off and one end blocked you coul dblow down it and hear the hissing) and it managed to maintain a vaccum. I'm assuming the vaccum sucked the crud over the hole to seal it and blowing pushed it back out again. Steven

Steven - Thanks for your reply; The car is a 2003 TDi, the air con last worked a few weeks before I started to get it checked out (climate control so on most of the time). After the re-gas the clutch was engaging and there was briefly some cooler (but not cold) air coming through, so I decided to leave it on Econ whilst trying to identify the fault. This has now been made easier as a couple of days ago I moved the car and found a puddle of green dye on the floor! I haven't had a close look yet but it has come out where the front off side inner wing meets the engine tray which sounds as though coincides with the pipe you describe, and also (having done some more research on line last night) roughly where the receiver/dryer is located which is known to have leak problems found here Hopefully have time to get underneath the car and chase the leak today. If you get under the car and look at the reciever dryer, right behind the bumper. The small pipe running back will be the one. I see your in Peterborough, I cant say I've had a huge amount of sucsess with the local big dealer there :blink: The pipe is not too bad to swap yourself, the undertray will need to come off. I did one last week, the pipe and 4 new O rings (you need to take off both from the pressure valve & receiver/dryer) was approx

In my experience, the hissing sound is actually comming from the Pressure valve on the bulkhead of the engine bay, but as it's "behind" the glove box, thats where you'll hear it. If it was this, thats a VERY good indication that you were low on refrigerant. you're basically not getting enough pressure to get the refrigerant liquid on the high pressure side of the valve. So you did the right thing getting it re-gassed. It could be the reciever/dryer, how old is the car? when did the aircon last work? After it stopped, did the compressor clutch dissengage and not re-engage? How long did you leave it running before giving up? I think the commonest place for these things to leak is the high pressure aluminium pipe from the reciever dryer to the pressure valve, right where the clamp is. I'm assuming they checked there? If not take a look yourself, if it's oily, then it's probably leaking. from the front for the car its on the left hand side running from the very front to the back of the engine bay. It's about 7-8mm diameter, with one clamp bolted to the frame. Steven

Hello Peter If you have a 2.3 Petrol I think you're looking to undo the wrong bit. The trensioner assembly is held on with a long bolt that you access behind the back of the AC compressor. Mine did not have an allen key hole either - just a bolt (and quite tight too) Undo the bolt and it virtually falls out. Takes about 10 mins to swap once yout under the car. I did mine recently because the screeching was driving me nuts! If you cant find the bolt, shout and i'll upload a pic. Steven

Hello What engine is it? If petrol it could be a sticking Idle control valve. Steven

Mike According to Haynes & TIS it doesn't look too difficult. 1. Take off the air intake pipe from the airbox 2. Take off the wiring harness (apparently a couple of clips) 3. Depressurise the fuel rail (bike - valve so a small screwdriver and some rags :) ) 4. Disconnect fuel supply & return pipes,. 5. Remove fuel rail & injectors. Put like that it looks a doddle doesn't it! As I said, it looks reasonably OK to do, obviously watch out for a bit of spilt fuel. Steven

Thanks for the reply andy..... Hmmm all i've got to do now is work out why it stalls after startup when hot. Cheers