alan_131

If you've got vcds lite have you tried logging required vs actual - just in case engine management is throwing a wobbly?

Sure someone snap that up at that sort mileage and history

Thanks gregers ...

Thanks for the replies - Chromedome, I'm sure it's a diesel, and according to the handbook the engine symbol, when on a diesel, is to do with the exhaust. Is that where the engine symbol displays on a mk2 dash? I can't really make it out properly. My mk1's didn't have that, afaik - certainly never saw it. Gregers, sounds a very nice car, but I'm looking at about a fifth of that (pretty much the scrap value of my last two put together. Times are tough at the moment.....) I did a search on the forum about the exhaust/sensor, but couldn't find anything about this. I bet it's in here somewhere, but I've always struggled a bit with the search... I think this is only Mk2 diesels. On with the search...

Hi all Still trying to replace my old Mk1. Looking at a Mk2 2002 on ebay. dash panel pic shows a light - I can't quite make out the symbol but think it might be the small engine which the handbook (thanks big_kev) says is exhaust lamda sensor related. of course, I may be being a complete plank. Could anybody please tell me if that is what it is, and if it's likely to be expensive/mot issue? (Car has no mot at the moment, and the ebay description says turbo doesn't cut in and it needs a rear exhaust box). Never seen a mk2 tdi start from the inside, so even more in the dark than usual. Trying to get to see it, but not managed it yet, so don't know what codes are logged. Any help very much appreciated.

Thank you ... best trainers and running shorts on...

Hi All Thinking about buying a '99 Galaxy auto. The attraction is the price, which I expect to be low because it has a problem with the auto box, and it's quite low mileage - around 120K. Normally I'd be looking for another manual but funds are very tight. The symptoms are - Delay/problem in changing up or down from the top gear ; struggles to get up any steep incline at speed Anybody any suggestions what might cause this, or if I should take a chance/ run away? Thanks in advance

Just read this and your autobox post. May not be today but I'll bet you've saved somebody a lot of headscratching/dosh in the future by taking the time to post outcomes...

My old Mk1 did something very much like this. I never got to the bottom of it, but the MOT tester said he thought it was to do with bracketry in my case, not wear, and he was not concerned by it.

Would be concerned if it was me. No expert on these engines - it may be characteristic of 1.8 but I'd think it was much more likely to be a fault . If timing is out when hot for some reason then this can be bad news on diesels. Possibly just ask mechanic at main dealer for opinion, or get diagnostic done....

I think phil yer boots is right and your remote key is not matched to the car. There's two parts to this the door bit (buttons on the key) as above - exact procedures vary a bit by modelyear and the immob bit (chip in the key that the immob reads when you try to start the car). Try a forum search for PATS for the immob bit. May be in the FAQ? Seem to recall reading that you need two already working keys to add a new key to the MK2 immob though. On early models it's only one. If I'm right, it's either a visit to a dealer (big bucks) or you might be able to get the working key cloned by a locksmith - mine was about £40.... Before you start, check the remote key has a chip in it - they fall out when the batteries are changed or the thing comes apart by accident. The chip is held between the blade holder plastic and the remote part with the buttons on - its only about the size of couple of grains of rice. The third alternative is to take the chip out of the working key and stick it in the car by the ignition switch aerial but then you loose the security the immob adds... Good luck

Can't help with your real problem, but Vag-com definately worth getting, especially as you have the TDI. (you only have to buy a lead, under £10 on ebay. Software is free download.) Galaxy is pretty much rebadged VW Sharan; some of the petrol versions have Ford engines, but the TDI is VW. You'll find a lot of vw labels/part numbers when you start to dig...

There's some information about the pd engines here http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf that if you haven't come across before might be helpful. I don't think you'd regret getting the cable - I certainly don't. It gives you access to a LOT of useful information that combined with the help you can get from the forum makes life much simpler... If you already have a tool to read fault codes then there's a certain amount of duplication, but I think you'd still find it gives you more information. A while back there were links between tacho and alternator wiring in some VAG cars, but I have no idea (sorry!) if this is still so. Many others on here who know a lot more about this than I do...

Not sure about the maf for this error, but it's been a while since I looked. MAP more likely anybody? I believe people usually use 3mm silicone hose for the turbo, 4mm for egr/vacuum distribution. You can get to the N75 end of the hose quite easily to do the suck test, I've found it difficult to get to the actuator to get the hose off - can't really get a grip on it from above. You've probably seen the caution about snapping the valve outlet when removing the hose...

Are you loosing any coolant? If so, maybe heater matrix....just thought I'd brighten your day... Mine leaks, and when the engine gets hot enough to pressurise the system, I sometimes get misting. AC fixes this now I've had it regassed. Also, a REALLY grsping at straws thing, but a couple of american sites had posts from people who eventually found their heating was on recirc.... I bought a ceramic (150w) heater - useful only for warming hands sadly....

The ecu follows a default map if it doesn't believe/can't see the cam sensor. It will run, based on where it thinks the cam should be, from the info it gets from the crank sensor. I seem to remember reading on here that you're right about the rotation speed, though I thought I'd seen 300rpm. Also, the injection system modifies its behaviour based on input from temp. sensors. If you search, you'll find a post on this from one of the forum gurus. If you have a laptop, free vcds-lite download and a "less than a tenner on ebay" lead will let you see/clear codes and read temperatures as well as lots of other info.

The new version is called VCDS Lite - it's still downloaded from the ross-tech site. Any issues after you install, have a look at the faq here - really good advice....

I don't know if your problem is due to the sensors needing cleaning - sounds odd to me but I've never had a problem with mine (whoops that'll have jinxed it). Sounds as if it could be more like a loose/intermittent connection or damaged wiring to me but I suppose muck between sensor and ring might be the messing it up. You can get some diagnostic information with vcds (if you haven't come across this before, as long as you have access to a laptop, a lead for less than £10 on ebay plus a free download gives you a really useful diagnostic package) - this can point you towards which sensor is at fault or if it's something else. For example output http://wiki.ross-tec...index.php/00285 Ross-tech are the authors of the vcds package.

No expert but if you can't get f1 to fix it, they might do a pressure test for you. My display flashed when pressure was low (zero according to the machine) and I had a fault on vcds. I think I recall seatkid saying you can just (carefully, and with a fused supply) apply 12v to the compressor to see if it kicks in - just for test purposes. Not quite sure what you mean about the compressor spinning freely so not being seized - if the clutch isn't energised, the pulley should spin freely even if the compressor is stuck fast I'd have thought... Kwik fit did a good job on mine, but certainly not as thorough as a 2hr vacuum out - if there was somebody like that near me,my vote would be with Chris's ... I'd use them even if they were a bit more expensive, especially if I thought there might be issues other than low gas....

Been watching with interest.... Good luck!

Um don't know how others feel but personally I'd be a bit cautious about using an airline as I've come across a lot that have very poorly maintained/non-existent driers and may pump water into your system... obviously you'd be having the system vacuumed afterwards to get the air/water out before it could be re-gassed but I'd have thought at least some could end up staying where you don't want it afterwards... or have I misunderstood... wouldn't be the first time - or the 100th time come to that :-)

Just a thought but I've seen replacement alternators advertised without the clutched pulley - with a note from the supplier that this has been deleted as it only needs a plain (non-clutched) pulley as this does not affect the alternator. (Which, of course, it doesn't - just trashes other stuff). So, just because you have an alternator at the moment which does not have a clutch, doesn't mean you shouldn't have one...

Just a speculation but if run-on pump doesn't work, possible you're getting localised heat transfer on switch-off, causing localised boilng. bit of water pushed out of the expansion tank... If you squeeze the big hose in the morning with the engine cold, and it's soft, then open the expansion tank cap and it hisses, sounds like you have below atmospheric pressure in the system.... Ditto small leak somewhere can pump out small amounts of water, which over time add up. If it only leaks under pressure, you get the same negative pressure when the system is cold.... If you wedge a piece of kitchen towel/tissue in front of the expansion bottle outlet, you'll see if the water under the car is from the bottle or elsewhere.... Of course, if the head gasket's gone, then it gets pressurised and looks much the same. My old 90 took about 5 miles to get warm enough to produce useful heater output round town - in other words, when not stressed, the cooling system has a lot of reserve capacity. When it was overheating, did you have heater output? (no water though heater matrix, no output....)

My Haynes manual only shows three wires to the motor - usual perfect reflection of the world as seen by Haynes.... No help there, but I did wonder if your earth connection was good?

Had another go but still can't get a decent photo of the pipe layout. I noticed that I was wrong about the splitter being rubber. The egr control solenoid on mine is the one mounted nearest the centreline of the car. The connection to vacuum "in" is the lower of the two pointing towards the nearside of the car. This has an "L" shaped rubber connector - which turns towards the back of the car. There is a "T" piece plugged into this, and the black cotton covered hose from the plastic servo pipe connects to the base of the "T". On mine, this means that the hose is coming in horizontally and parallel to the bulkhead. Hope this helps...