chrispb123456

You say water pump has been changed previously, it may be then the damage has already been done. pressurising and intermittent overheating are all signs of head gasket failure or even cracked head. So any signs of excess pressure, fluctuating coolant level, intermittent heater (goes cold) Also check run on pump is still working (behind fuel filter) as this aids circulation.

Hi Andy Your be hard pushed to get the engine hot enough at idle for the stat to open fully, is it overheating then or some other issue.

I would say 85 is the start to open temperature with fully open being considerably higher, bottom hose staying cool is quite normal unless engine is under heavy load/motorway driving.

Run very quickly, not a good idea.

Not a very good pic but gives you an idea of location, if you follow the bottom hose to the block you will find it. Once you remove the two bolts and stat you will be able to see the rear of the water pump, check the impeller is secure as the have a habit off slipping on the shaft or even disintegrating completely.

All the wiring goes through the drivers side right hand gaiter, the washer tube goes through the other.

Take the battery off and charge it on a charger for 36 hours, make sure none of the smaller cables have broken off the battery terminals.

Well done. Right now you can open it you need to check the wiring running through the gaiter to the door, you will most certainly have some broken/chaffed wiring in there. You will need to run some new wires through the gaiter and have the joints in the tailgate and the body pillar.

Have you tried using the key in the tailgate and turning it fully anticlockwise past the normal unlock position

Do as already been suggested get yourself a VCDS/Vagcom lead under £10 on Ebay you can then read off the faults then come back on here to discuss.

Problem with spraying down the intake your not getting to the place where the problem is, the vanes are in the exhaust side of the turbo.

Yep sounds more like electrical if it's intermittent.

Have not used wynns cleaner but the instructions for the innotec turbo cleaner still requires an amount of dismantling, so suggest reading the instructions before buying as this may also require blocking of the turbo outlet.

Hi and welcome to the forum Am a little confused with your statement, computer showing no 2 injector fault again and then you say Vagcom and other kit showing clean bill of health. Electrical faults injector wiring loom will give a fault code on Vagcom, however cam lobe failure probably won't. Is your problem intermittent or all the time. I am also in Medway if you would like me to scan your car just to make sure.

Which diagnostic software are you using? Faulty injector loom wiring will give a fault code as will disconnected MAF & MAP sensors Vagcom/VCDS lite is the best to use on the diesel galaxy.

Yes to the first question, if I was to fit the plate it would be the source end which is the manifold end

What's to be gained by fitting a blanking plate (blocking the small flexipipe) when removing and plugging the vacuum pipe to the EGR diaphragm gives the same result, the valve stays shut. The smaller vacuum control on the EGR should be left alone (connected) as this is the anti shudder valve which operates when switching off engine.

Key fobs do get a bit tired and will probably pack up completely, screen display is also affected by warmer/hot weather. As for your noise when accelerating hard, power loss 110mph + are you having a laugh or what.

What's the LED on the door do when you try to start, and does the glow plug light come on when switching on ignition.

Hi Andy Sensors are held in with clips, the thermostat is located in the bottom hose housing by the aircon pump. Once you saved pics to your computer you can attach them to your post.

Hi and welcome to the forum. This has all the classic signs of dodgy door/tailgate gaiter wiring, this causes all sorts of problems with the electrics Also check the battery fuse box for overheating and the 3 amp fuse for continuity

Of course you have checked this secondhand turbo for sticking vanes before fitting??

Yes and under pressure.

The oil feed pipe is just a steel pipe with a union nut a each end, it can get twisted and fractured if not undone correctly. Two spanners are needed one to turn the pipe nut and one to hold the nut union from turning, this means grinding down a 17mm spanner to fit between the turbo housing as there's not enough room to get a full size 17mm spanner in the space. The other end is fitted to the oil filter housing this is easier to deal with.

Remove the lead from the fuse box and solder the lead, you will need to do this with a blow lamp owing to the size of cable, if fuse box is still OK refit lead, if it is burnt or melted you will need to replace it. You can then recheck the voltages for improvement as 12 volt on tickover is low.