chrispb123456

What does the door LED do when you try to start when the cars not starting. You have changed the glow plug relay (103) but relay 109 power supply relay is more prone to failure

We have a statue of Thomas waghorn near Chatham station, usually ends up with a road cone on his head!

Diagnostic Trouble Codes = fault codes DTC is the term used by most diagnostic readers.

As already suggested you need to either get car scanned for DTC's or get your own lead http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/271036790042?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f1b0d351a http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

There is no manual control on the cars with standard heater controls it's fully automatic, initially controlled by an outside air temperature sensor (10deg on MK2) but is also influenced by engine temperature Only cars with independent heating option can manually start the heater without engine running. Eberspächer do make an upgrade kit to independent heating which involves fitting a timer unit, control relays and associated wiring but is quite expensive.

a worn tyre worn on one side can cause the car to steer in that direction but that usually happens all the time not just when pulling. A worn or loose suspension joint or bush or mounting would seem most likely.

Sounds like a flat battery.

I make it fuse 23 should be 10 amp and fuse 25 should be 3 amp

TIS is Fords Technical Information System (workshop manual on disc). There are copies floating about on Ebay and downloadable from the net, and cover Ford vehicles up to 2003/2004

VCDS will confirm if you have intermittent connection problems on the injectors, new injector loom is about £60

Have to agree probably head gasket, worst case cracked/porous head.

The five speed AG5 box holds seven litres but when draining you will only get out three point five litres depending on whether the level was correct to start with.

Before you start changing parts, take a look at the cam belt, check/replace

Have to agree it looks like a tubes been left off but thats how the MK 2's are, the MK1's had a short extension pipe but still at about the same height as the 2's

There are several pipes hidden in the wheel arch chassis which are also subject to corrosion and usually leak around the clamps that hold the pipes to the chassis, I had three pipes changed over an 18 month period so can be an expensive hobby in gas alone.

Difficult starting smoking and noise could be associated with timing, VCDS in measuring blocks will show if timing is out. If the car was running fine before belt change then timing has got to be out, and to be honest it's not that difficult to get to the belt to check it.

As I said on your other post you could test your old stat while also checking the water pumps, but by the fact you had the cold heater syndrome and just manifests itself when under pressure, HGF is looking favorite

A quick fix would be to get a mobile specialist out he would test the system for leaks and if the condenser/dryer is the problem he will supply and fit a new one, he will then vacuum the system and if OK refill with gas usually about 3 to £400 all in, do not consider a secondhand unit.

Certainly sounding like head gasket failure, but do check the water pump impeller first, do this by removing thermostat housing from block and feeling the impeller is secure on the shaft, and test stat while removed Also check auxiliary water pump (run on pump) as this also aids circulation (on bulkhead behind fuel filter) iirc flashing temp light when gauge reads normal is wiring fault at the bottle sensor.

Try changing relay 30 first, this causes intermittent cutting out and starting problems. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=68423

Hi Yozza The 6mm pin or drill bit should be used to lock cam, did you paint mark the pulleys before you removed belt? If you didn't would advise getting the crank locking tool as the only mark on the crank sprocket is made to line up with arrow on the tool itself. (fig 8.13a) in the haynes book.

Be sure there's not the slightest distortion or erosion on the head face, check with an engineering shop that deals with machining if there's any doubt, would hate the same to happen again. Ignore the oblong slots only holes and notches apply

You won't hear the flaps moving but you may hear/feel the air change direction When you switch econ to auto you effectively switch the compressor clutch on and off. It's more likely the gas has leaked away through condenser/dryer or pipework. Advise a mobile aircon specialist as they have more knowledge than the likes of kwik fit etc. If your local to the north kent area I have a number for a mobile chap

Did they check your system for leaks before filling, even a small leak usually condenser/air dryer will rapidly lose pressure, also pipework hidden in wheel arch prone to corrosion and leaks. Did they still charge you for the service. You may also have other problems with the HVAC system which you need to scan What is your location.

On the spike first.