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hopefully someone on here will know but if u do get stuck there is a workshop manual on e bay u can buy for the vw sharan(its not a haynes one) . about 3 pounds in disk form or 16 pounds for the book . only mentioning it like i said if u do get stuck .

how do u know it s working if it s not cooling? if there isnt enough gas in the system there s a pressure swich which cut s out your air con to save any damage to the system. what u need to check is that your compressor s turning on . when u press your air con button is there a slight drop in revs? ( just to add even though the ac light turn s on in your car it dosent mean that the system is working) .

many thanks . i understand that they ll be some function s ill not be able to get , such as low oil level as the wiring wont be there but as long as i can get mpg etc id be more than happy . just wondering will my car will accept a second hand cluster ? i dont know if vw have built in some sort of anti clocking software to stop high mile car s having low mile cluster s put in em .

thanks mirez . would have replied sooner but ive been struggling to get on this site for some reason . just one last question , i fitted my stalk today just to see if the wiring from the stalk was present . it was nt but i know how to wire the stalk to the instrument cluster . all i really need to know is if the wiring from the cluster to the ecu isnt present would u know what the pinouts would be? i read somewhere that the low petrol system works off the same circuit so im sort of hoping its all ready wired.

just to add , ive seen a vw bora tdi instrument cluster which looks pretty much the same as mine . would i be able to fit this to my car or do i need a specific galaxy cluster ? are the ecu s and clock s standard across the vw group range? i suppose from a manufacturing point of view this would make sense . only asking as you said i need one designed for this chassis.

thanks gents for the replies. suppose this is for u mirez but ive bought the stalk already , if i were to buy a new cluster with lcd screen then wire up the stalk to the cluster would that be job done or is there a loom from the ecu to the cluster? i do know u have to activate via vag com which should be easy enough.

just fitted cc this weekend. to activate cc on ecu via vac com select 01 engine login -11 enter 11463 [do it] to activate cc pinouts are black/white 14 red 44 blue/green 45 grey 46 if you ve replaced your ecu im guessing it need s activating via vag com.

might be a bit of a tough one this so im hoping someone out there might help . after my sucessfull c control upgrade im thinking of fitting a trip computer . as ive only got a zetec model my clocks hav nt got a digital display . would it be possible to buy any vw/skoda/seat instrument cluster and remove the centre trip computer display and light s and fit to my cluster? looking at most of the vw cluster s they seem pretty much the same apart from the cases they fit in . im only asking as all the gal second hand cluster s seem very over priced and looking over the whole vw group might save me some hard earned money . cheer s .

try putting "ford galaxy s for breaking" on e bay to see if there s any mk2 s near u . i used that search method to locate a run on pump.

i had this fault a few months ago , negative pressure 17964 and it turned out to be a split pipe to the bottom of the turbo . i did a vag com test on my maf sensor (before i sussed it was a split pipe) and the max reading i got was about 550ml of air no matter what speed or rev s i was doing. when i repaired pipe and then re tested the maf it read 1100ml . what im sort of saying is if your car is in limp mode u wont get an accurate reading of your maf from vag com. id consider giving your maf a clean first and maybe checking voltage before u start shelling out money.

lol , job done . not that hard really , must have been too tired yesterday to concentrate . all i needed to do was use a small screwdriver to push back the clips .

hope there s someone out there who can help please . tried fitting an e bay cc kit to my car today . managed to get stalk on and all wired up but im really stumped on the ecu wiring . managed to get plug off ecu but i just cant manage to get old pins out to replace with new wiring , even damaged some of the plug trying to get one out . i suppose what im after is a dime bar proof step to step guide of how to get them out. ive tried narrow screwdriver s and the like but they just wont budge. has anyone out there got any handy advice or help for me . all replies much appreciated. cheers.

many thanks chris . ill let u know how i get on after my hol s .

im fitting cruise control to my gal next week so while im in the fuse box i was thinking of looking at the relay that runs the run on pump . just wondered if anyone knows which one it is? cheers .

dunno mate but if the timing belt has "slipped" which does sound unusual for a chain driven engine i would consider writing off car and getting a new one. i cant see u getting much change out of a 1000 pounds if the mechanic is suggesting getting a reclaimed engine . better to put that money towards something newer as aposed to spending it on a car that is probably worth 1700 tops . maybe someone on here has had a similair experience and it isnt so bad but i would nt spend good money on bad if u know what i mean ; and that s speaking from experience.

just checked f18 and 34 . both ok so that leaves the relay or the coolant temp sensor . i guess the relay is behind the fuse box (any ideas what number and level ?) but i dont know where the coolant temp sensor is . is it easy to get to? ive no fault s on vag com regards the coolant temp sensor so would that indicate faulty relay?

sorry mirez , its an 03 galaxy tdi 130 . ps just put a signature on!

its definately working bud. i removed the fan housing before fitting then plugged it up to the car with my old one still in situ . i could clearly see the motor spinning but as soon as i switched engine off it stopped . i fitted it after and when the engine is on and u feel it it is definately still working.

i fitted my second hand replacement run on pump yesterday . i tested it before fitting and was working ok and when i fitted it it was working fine . the only problem i have with it is as soon as i turn off the ignition the pump stops running . dosent matter if the water is up to full temp or cold , no matter what i do it just turns off as soon as engine stops. ive searched the internet and only found one other thread where someone s had the same problem but sadly there was no resolution on the post. anyone any idea s ? cheers.

probably better people on here to advise but if your battery is going flat after interior lights been left on overnite maybe your due a new battery . there might not be enough voltage in the battery to operate windows .

probably worth servicing if u ask me . if u do it yourself ; its not that hard ;it should cost u no more than 70 pounds. might be worth taking out the air filter and having a look at it . if its black id guess it has nt been changed for a number of years . always best to check yourself . just because the book has been stamped dosent always mean the work has been done if u know what i mean. i used to own a 98 gal 2.3 and the fuel economy was nt brilliant , always found myself chugging round in high gears trying to eak out my petrol which in its self isnt really that good for the car . maybe a couple of weeks of hard driving may clear up the intake system .

has it been serviced recently?

you could try platinum cars on 07747483098 or 07837379578 . i found em on e bay while looking for a second hand run on pump . they seem to have a number of mk3 gals for breaking plus they seem to have a 2.0tcdi engine ready to go which i think is what your looking for . id post a link but havent got a clue how to ! best of luck mate.

might just need clearing via vag com. i believe if the abs system is disturbed in any way , lets say sensor gets unplugged then plugged back in even though there s nothing wrong with the sensor because the system has sensed a fault , ie lost contact with a sensor it will flag it up on the dash and await to be looked at to make sure there s nothing wrong with the system. happened with mine anyway when i unplugged one , i had to clear it via my lap top even though id plugged it back in and there was nt anything wrong with the system. hope this helps bud.

id check your fuse box. my fuse used to melt all the time on my old mk 1 despite it been a 30amp. had to change it every three months or so.