tim-spam

Take the cam cover off first - it may be a badly worn camshaft. If you're really lucky it may be just a collapsed tappet.

There are loads of posts on this problem - almost certainly a sticking VNT on the turbo.

Not exactly. Tripping into limp mode is designed to prevent immediate catastrophic failure of the turbocharger by limiting the amount of overspeed. It is not designed to protect it against repeated overspeed events and is really a warning that the problem should be fixed. The most dangerous time is if you accelerate quickly away in first gear (especially if the engine is still cold), when the turbo can be oversped considerably before the ECU trips into limp mode. If you are only experiencing this occassionally, the chances are that you can continue like this for some considerable time, but you really should plan to fix it - the car will run so much better afterwards that this alone will justify doing it.

If the VNT is well coked up, this method simply won't work, and there is the possibility of turbo failure due to it being oversped before tripping into limp mode. However, this is a problem that some have lived with for some years, but for a permanent, reliable cure, de-coking the VNT is the best method - the car will run better too, as boost control will be much more accurate. Remember, each time it trips into limp mode, the turbo has been oversped beyond its design limits.

Sounds like the turbo vanes are sticking. You may be able to live with it for a while by avoiding engine speed above around 2500rpm, especially with a cold engine on cold, damp days. A good long motorway run may also improve it for a while. However, you will need to remove the turbo sooner or later to clean and free up the VNT mechanism - there are several good threads on this. As an alternative, if the turbo is in good condition apart from a coked up VNT mechanism, Midland Turbos in Nottingham will do you an exchange unit for around

It has a DMF - all 115's do, as do virtually all newish cars nowadays. To answer your question, 4th is geared at around 25mph / 1000rpm, so 30mph is a little slow for this gear, but it should be OK. By the way, the turbo really starts to boost at around 1300 - 1400 rpm. As for using 6th at 30mph, don't - the engine will be turning over at well under 1000rpm, which will be neither good for the engine / transmission nor economical. Remember that because of the torque capability of the TDI, the gearing is much higher than on a 2.3, so don't worry.

Alternator pulley may be on its way out.

Normally, you leave the hoses attached to the valve when changing the filter - that way, there's no problem remembering which way to refit it.

As I said, probably the alternator pulley (which is most definitely not the same as the belt tensioner).

Could be the alternator pulley.

Indicators will be either switch, wiring, fuse or flasher unit - shouldn't be too difficult to fix, and easy to test. They would need to fix these anyway before sale. Rear door problem is probably mechanical and new parts should easily fix this - this is not a common issue anyway. If all else is good and there's a 2 year warranty, I'd probably go for it if I was you.

Having also done the same job on my Alhambra, I have to say that it is not at all difficult, but you will need a decent set of sockets - 3/8" and 1/4" drive with both long and short sockets. If you have the right tools, you can get a socket and ratchet bar onto all of the turbo to head nuts, which makes removal pretty quick. You will almost certainly need a new oil feed pipe, as this almost invariably shears off when removing it. I did mine from underneath, which minimises the number of parts you have to remove.

The best way of freeing up seized wiper spindles without too much brute force or the use of hammers is as follows: 1) Remove the wiper arms by removing the 16mm nuts. 2) Start the engine and switch on the wipers and look to see which side of the linkage carrier is flexing - this will show which side is seized (it may be both sides). 3) Switch wipers off. 4) Remove the circlips and thrust washers from the spindles and apply some WD40. 5) Screw the wiper arm nuts on a few turns. 6) Switch wipers back on - hopefully the spindles will be rotating back and forth. 7) using a 16mm socket and extension bar, push down hard on one of the nuts until the spindle starts to move down. Apply more WD40 as you go. 8) If the motor starts to slow down, grab the nut with a pair of pliers and pull the spindle back up again. 9) Once it starts to move up and down more freely, start to use engine or gearbox oil, as this is a better lubricant - also, apply lubricant to the lower end of the spindle as it appears. 10) When it all appears to be moving freely, you can either reassemble and see how it goes, or take the whole unit out for a complete strip down knowing that it will come apart easily without the use of hammers. Hope this helps.

Much better to use the proper spline key though - less chance of rounding off the splines in the shaft.

If the turbo oil seals are on their way out, you will have high oil consumption and a smoky exhaust, as this is where the oil from the turbo will go - the pressure in the inlet manifold is higher than that in the exhaust. The oil in the intercooler is the normal oil mist from the breather. This only leaks out if the intercooler gaskets or hose joints are leaking.

Remember, it's important to get the problem sorted before too long - every time it overboosts, the turbo is overspeeding, which will eventually lead to turbo bearing failure. The best course of action is to remove the turbo and either clean the mechanism yourself or get an exchange unit from Midland Turbos in Nottingham - they only charge around

MAF problem results in a lack of power all the time. I would guess that you have the following fault code: Charge pressure - positive deviation. If this is the case, you have sticking turbo vanes. There are plenty of posts on this.

Many people have tried turbo cleaner, but it only works in very few cases - but try it and see...

Remove turbo, strip down vanes, clean and re-assemble. There are several posts describing exactly how to do this.

Sticking turbo vanes - lots of posts on this topic.

Every vehicle manufacturer has to give a maximum towing limit. This can be found in the vehicle handbook and also on the chassis plate, usually found under the bonnet. The information can be presented in a variety of ways. The clearest is when the plate gives the towing limits for both braked and unbraked trailers. Sometimes the car

Unlikely to be the MAF. If it accelerates well at higher revs, but not at low revs, the turbo vanes are either sticking closed, or you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

It's not an auxiliary heater, it's a booster heater. Nothing auxiliary about it - it is an integral part of the vehicle's cooling / heating system.

The Galaxy TDI 130 is homologated to tow 2000kg.

Are you sure?? Hopefully just a driveshaft, as the gearboxes are usually pretty bullettproof.