tim-spam

Only a lap belt in the middle seat? My 2002 Alhambra has a 3-point belt which comes down fron the roof with 2 buckles, one for each side of the seat. All of the Sharans and Alhambras I test drove before buying were the same. If this belt can be retrofitted, this would be the best solution. Tim

I've looked on the websites, and have 4 questions: 1. Which is the best lead to go for - I've heard that the parallel port version works the best. 2. Does the free software from www.ross-tech.com have any limitations, and does it cover all functions on the Alhambra? 3. Where can I find a manual which covers the functionality of VAGCOM and all of the codes? 4. Will I be able to enable the dash warning light for trailer indicators, and if so, how? This is a brilliant forum - thanks for all your help! Tim

I bought my Brink towbar through Halfords, who told me that it came complete with the wiring kit. When it arrived, I found that it was just the usual cheap universal kit with scotchlocks. I 'phoned Brink, and they gave me the reference for the vehicle specific kit, which I then asked Halfords to order. When this arrived, they simply swapped it for the one they originally supplied - so I think I may have got a bargain!

The wiring harness from Brink is vehicle specific, and I guess they may buy it from VAG or their supplier - Brink is Dutch, but the wiring harness is made in Germany. Basically, it is fitted into the vehicle by pulling various plugs from their sockets (one by one, following the instructions supplied), pushing the plugs on the wiring harness into the socket on the car, and then pushing the car's plugs into the correct sockets on the wiring harness. The whole kit is supplied with everything needed to complete the job, even including grommets and cable ties. I hope this all makes sense.

Just fitted a Brink towbar to my 2002 Alhambra. Quite an easy job - all holes etc. already there. As regards electrics, I fitted the 12N socket using a vehicle-specific kit from Brink (which has VW ID's on several of the parts), and found that this fits very well, with all grommets etc. supplied. With this there is no need to cut or splice any wires. However, I have a question which Brink does not seem able to answer. Supplied with the wiring kit is a relay, which appears to have something to do with the indicators. When connected to my trailer, the trailer indicator warning light on the dash did not work (perhaps this option needs enabling with VAGCOM?), but when I disabled one of the trailer indicators, the flashing rate doubled just as if one of the car's indicator bulbs had failed - all indicators on the car were working. If I disconnected the trailer plug, the flashing rate returned to normal. My question is whether this is the latest method of monitoring the trailer indicators and if this meets the regulations - or is a visible / audible warning that the trailer indicators are working still required? As regards the 12S socket, is there a sufficient supply at the rear of the car to supply the caravan fridge / battery. My 12S kit only has a single relay - is there any reason why 2 relays should be required (after all, on my previous cars, both relays have been activated from the same source - alternator warning light)? Also, is there a convenient signal for this relay at the rear of the car - previously, I have run wires the full length of the car (underneath the car to avoid having to strip out carpets, etc.) to the battery.

Thanks very much for the reply. My 2001 car does not have a CD changer fitted, but is the wiring already there?

Please could someone tell me where the genuine VW 6 CD changer fits on the VW Sharan. Many thanks.

Having visited the Hella website re. aircon. systems, the fact that the majority of new cars now sold in the UK have aircon. as standard is presented as an opportunity to the trade, due to service requirements and the high frequency of failures (note that this is directly from the suppliers to Ford, VW, Seat, etc.)!! However, it goes on to emphasize the importance of annual servicing. This should involve: 1) Visual inspection of all components. 2) De-gassing the system and measuring the amount of charge removed. 3) Subjecting the system to a deep vacuum to check for leaks and remove any moisture. 4) Re-gassing the system, appying UV dye and putting in the correct fill of oil to lubricate the compressor. 5) Replacing the filter / drier every 2 years. 6) Disinfection of the evaporator. 7) Replacement of the pollen filter. I guess that 1) and 7) should be DIYable, and 6) probably does not affect system reliability. If this is done, the system reliability should improve considerably. It appears that manufacturers are offering aircon. as standard on more and more of their models, but are not putting any preventative maintenance schedules in place, presumably to avoid having uncompetitive servicing costs (after all, when negociating a fleet deal, warranty costs are probably ignored!) So, I intend to have my system serviced annually (probably in the spring), if I can find a local aircon. specialist who doesn't charge the earth - does anyone know of one in the Stoke-on-Trent area? A commercial vehicle specialist would probably be better, as they tend to have far, far more knowledge and experience. From what I've read, it appears that aircon. systems give trouble whatever the make of car (although I suppose the Japanese are probably better than most), and that much of the expense is due to poor or non-existent maintenance and the usual woefully poor knowledge and workmanship by the average main agents.

I've had the same problem on my Alhambra - it had a 14" Bosch blade on and missed top and bottom of screen. Looking at it, it appears that the latest Bosch wiper blades are not sufficiently flexible at the ends to follow the curvature of the screen. I've solved the problem by buying a Halford's branded blade, which is far more flexible at the ends. This only missed a very narrow strip at the top. This ia easily fixed by pulling the rubber insert fron the carrier, reversing the spring steel inserts and reassembling - now works perfectly. Hope this helps, Tim

I've had the car for 4 weeks and found this forum a couple of weeks ago - excellent! I've read all about the water in footwell problems and now know what to look for - thanks to all. However, when I looked under the carpet under both front seats, there was no sign of any ECU's - just a couple of connectors and some wiring. Was the under-seat ECU deleted or moved on the facelifted models? I will be fitting a Brink towbar and electrics soon (I've already bought the towbar and vehicle-specific wiring kit) and have the following question: When removing the bumber, the body coloured trims below the rear light clusters need to be removed - is this just a case of pulling them to the rear of the car? I've read that these are somewhat brittle and need to be removed with care - are there any tricks I should know about? Once the towbar is fitted, I shall be fitting some rear mudflaps - I've already fitted the front ones. The genuine parts fit perfectly and fitting the front flaps was straightforward - so much better than aftermarket jobs. Seat charge around

I've had the car for 4 weeks and found this forum a couple of weeks ago - excellent! I've read all about the water in footwell problems and now know what to look for - thanks to all. However, when I looked under the carpet under both front seats, there was no sign of any ECU's - just a couple of connectors and some wiring. Was the under-seat ECU deleted or moved on the facelifted models? I will be fitting a Brink towbar and electrics soon (I've already bought the towbar and vehicle-specific wiring kit) and have the following question: When removing the bumber, the body coloured trims below the rear light clusters need to be removed - is this just a case of pulling them to the rear of the car? I've read that these are somewhat brittle and need to be removed with care - are there any tricks I should know about? Once the towbar is fitted, I shall be fitting some rear mudflaps - I've already fitted the front ones. The genuine parts fit perfectly and fitting the front flaps was straightforward - so much better than aftermarket jobs. Seat charge around