tim-spam

XL or RF tyres are often fitted to higher performance saloon cars, as well as to MPV's, to improve handling and steering response due to their stiffer sidewalls.

Exactly right!

You can always find horror stories with whichever type of car / engine. Diesel is the only sensible choice especially for an MPV, unless you do less than around 5000 miles per year, and even then modern diesels are so much better to drive.

Yes. This unit looks very similar to the one in my car, and the price is well under half of what a dealer charges (Seat price is

Plus, you can pick up a complete brand new unit for

Why do you do this? Everyone with aircon knows you're wrong. Just think for a minute - aircon can be used very effectively to demist the windows, even in cooler weather, so why on earth would a car design engineer design a system which shut this facility off when using the heater. Answer: he wouldn't. Now, 2 of my cars have aircon, and I use it very effectively for de-misting the windows, even on days like today (raining, 10 degC, misted windows this morning). Heater fully on, switch aircon on and windows clear within seconds (not several minutes). When the temperature drops to below 5 degC, it is a real pain because misted windows can take ages to clear - why do you think this thread was started in the first place?? (Clue: perhaps because Neil, like many others, uses his aircon to demist the windows, even in cold weather with the heating on). This thread is beginning to remind me of one concerning torque figures a while ago..... However, if you wish to persist in your own ill-conceived belief in the face of all reasonable explanation and the facts themselves, then I suppose that there is little any of us can do except point out the facts for the benefit of those who are seeking real information.

No need - we've already told you how it works, so why argue??

Both of these sound like complete nonsense, but unfortunately typical of an increasing number of spanner monkeys. The 6-speed 'boxes are reliable and durable, and the symptoms described point strongly to a dragging clutch (creeping forwards when the clutch is fully depressed - this simply shouldn't happen!). I would think that they have either fitted non-genuine parts or fitted them badly - have they bled the hydraulics properly? As for saying that the 'box was 'knackered' - how?? Worn bearings, worn sychromesh, jumping out of gear?? If the gearbox runs quietly and the gears select and stay selected, then it's generally safe to say that it's OK.

Firstly, if you have aircon, try it and see - it works - fact. Secondly, when the temperature control is set to 'hot', the air still passes through the evaporator before passing through the heater matrix, which is why it works. Simple!

A simple test: when your car displays its boiling symptoms, try switching the heaters (front and rear) to maximum. If the air blowing out is hot and stays hot, this would imply that you have reasonable coolant circulation. If it blows cold, you don't, which would point to the water pump. However, you could also have a blockage somewhere, as you have said that you have run on water for a while - one of the most vital tasks of the coolant is to inhibit corrosion.

Talking rubbish again. It works very well for demisting even on cold days when the heater is being used. As for fooling the system into working below 5 degC, don't try, because if you do, you run the very real danger of icing up the evaporator and causing severe damage. All systems on whatever make of car will not work below a certain temperature, which typically varies from 2 degC to 6 degC depending on the make and model of car.

But where is she??

This is the first time I have heard of one falling off - if this was a major problem, the manufacturer would have changed it. However, it should be checked at every service to ensure that the mechanism is safe, that it works and that the spare wheel and tyre are serviceable. Mine has given no problems at all, and still works very well, but then again it has never been overtightened, which is the main cause for the vast majority of problems experienced.

Most manufacturers have had problems with DMF's when they first started to be used, but this issue was sorted out years ago by most manufacturers - for Ford (or should I say Peugeot) to be still experiencing these problems is incredible.

I've now changed over to Comma PD oil as the TXT I was using has been replaced with Castrol Edge and the price has risen considerably. Comma oil is highly recommended by 'those who know' and is around

Probably a sign that combustion has failed. The heater takes its induction air from the nearside sill - in fact, I think that the sill is ventilated by the car's ventilation system such that the heater's induction air is filtered by the pollen filter. If the heater has had several attempts to fire, a certain amount of unburnt diesel can build up in the heater. If it then subsequently lights, it is possible that some of this residue will start to evaporate when it gets hot, and this can find its way into the car via the N/S sill. Get you glowpug (and gauze if necessary) replaced and all should be well.

My goodness, you've taken the gearbox out all by yourself - you must be extremely clever. Thank you so much for deigning to consider mere mortals such as us, if only fleetingly. Is that what you wanted?? Actually, you'd be better off on the other forum - that's pretty well populated with big but somewhat insecure egos.

You may also need to replace the little gauze around the glowplug - when I did mine earlier this year, the gauze was completely coked up and somewhat distorted. Simple to replace and cost around

Probably the alternator pulley - about

No, the real problem is that the car with DPF has been put onto the market before it's ready.....

Mk II homologated to tow up to 2000kg.

Mk II has never been tested, but should be considerably better than Mk I, although 3 stars for the Mk I before such things were fashionable was a pretty good showing. After all, what did a 1999 Espace or Voyager score?

I tried, but couldn't get a straight answer, so I stuck with 40,000 miles - as I do it myself, the cost is not really an issue, and it only takes around 2 - 3 hours, so it really isn't worth the risk.

They're both part of the exhaust manifold, but are still slightly different.

The latest Sharan 2.0 TDI is Euro IV and pulls like a train - even better than my 115 TDI...