Bigjeeze

:( I agree it is disappointing, but to be fair - our new friend did rather kick off a bit unnecessarily. I appreciate he was being ribbed slightly but the reaction was extreme. I think that he has taken the correct action in going - If he doesn't want to play that's his business. JohnB80 _ Your viewpoint is respected - but I am assuming that up until this point you have been happy - you don't seem to have complained at the general banter - so please reconsider. If the new guy calms down a bitl maybe he will reconsider too. I rather like the atmosphere and If I don't like it well I know what I should do - Just go quietly. It's not compulsory to belong - Just a very good idea. That's all folks :(

:o Something about Penis extensions spring to mind when we are talking about how powerful engines are :o OK so yours is bigger - Mine works better for longer and has more satisfied users!!! :o

How much is this kit then?

Thanks Guys - lots of good ideas - I have changed the wheels to different positions but no difference. I ordered a new lower wishbone which arrived today (

Hi I can always check again - It wears on the outside (offside) edge - Tyre pressures are correct and checked daily (both using a hand held gauge and the one on the compressor. Any other ideas?

I have tried on various occasions to see if the CC makes any difference to MPG. It doesn't. I can get average 48mpg on a good run (100+) at steady 70 using the Crusie control, with or without the CC on. I don't think it makes that much difference if the temp inside is steady only if it needs to work harder perhaps. I once (when I was really bored) drove 165 miles @ an average speed of 55mph and got 61 mpg. Still I not often that bored!!

Hi all On my wifes 1997 TDi the off side front tyre wears more quickly than the near side. It needs replacing after only 8K miles. I have had it tracked, I have changed the track rod ends, the bottom swivel joint, The wheel bearings are fine , the shock is fine, there is no undue movement on the strut top - So have you any ideas what I can do to correct this. The only thing I can come up with is to change the wishbone on the off chance it may be bent or the bushes are knackered. Any ideas? :huh:

Hi Fred It's possible that you have a duff engine mounting. I had that one of mine - IT only seemed to be there once it was warm. Shouldn't cost you anything to get that checked. Jeeze

Both my Gals' are Ex BT Fleet - and both of them had tyres replaced in pairs and always the fronts got the new tyres as they had worn the most. When I asked why I was told this was the best way to ensure safety, as the front tyres (on 2WD) vehicles should always have the best tyre condition possible, as this is usually where all the action is! With a fleet of some 60,000 vehicles I guess they know what they're doing!

No I don't but there are some on here somewhere - just search for them. It really is very easy to do. Cheers Gary

You can try your local BT Fleet workshop - there must be one in Cardiff somewhere! They charge around

Hi there is definitely a run on pump on the later TDI's it is used to slowly cool down the Turbo and head. It's been covered here a number of times.

Could also be the Drop links - When mine were knackered I had a wobble and shaking that disapeared after I replaced the drop links. They were well & truly buggered!! Anyway at around

Low gas pressure should only cause the Air Con to be less efficient - As there is a fail safe built in that turns off the compressor clutch if there is insufficient pressure - which avoids damaging the compressor. I know this because my wife's AIr Con stopped working and when looking at it I noticed the clutch wasn't engaging on the compressor - When I gave in and took it in the Receiver Dryer unit had a hole in it and all of the gas had escaped. Once replaced and re gassed all worked well (and still is at 8 years and 118K miles) Still an annual check of the gas is a good idea, and as we have seen it isn't a good idea to ignore the Air Con. Jeeze

:( Thanks Guys I have got an eezi bleed and used it today - It feels a lot better. I wonder also if the calipers werent seated right - I took it round the block and it seemed to improve. I changed the fluid by running new through so hopefully I haven't done any damage. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks again :(

When driving the brakes need to be pumped otherwise the pedal is too low (compared to before) also if you put your foot on the brake pedal and then turn on the engine it sinks down and keeps on going almost to the floor. Which defintiely doesn't feel right. What do you think?

Can someone please advise me. I bought new discs & pads for my Gal and when attemting to fit them I removed the old pads and pushed the piston back into the caliper without clamping and bleeding. I then realised I had the wrong pads so had to put the old ones back in. The pedal had to be pumped to get it back up. I then got the correct parts replaced the discs and this time did it correctly (albeit too late). But the pedal feels hard and OK but once the engine is running it sinks slowly - not to the floor but it isn't right. I think I should bleed the system - what do you think I should do? Cheers Gary

Can someone please advise me. I bought new discs & pads for my Gal and when attemting to fit them I removed the old pads and pushed the piston back into the caliper without clamping and bleeding. I then realised I had the wrong pads so had to put the old ones back in. The pedal had to be pumped to get it back up. I then got the correct parts replaced the discs and this time did it correctly (albeit too late). But the pedal feels hard and OK but once the engine is running it sinks slowly - not to the floor but it isn't right. I think I should bleed the system - what do you think I should do? Cheers Gary

Hi all I am getting ready to replace the cam belt on both my Galaxy's. The wife's is the first one - It is a 1997 TDI manual. (118K - first one done at 55) I have seen various threads on the site pointing to GSF for the necessary parts - and saw one that suggest a kit which has the belt and tensioner etc. How do I choose which one it should be? I have tried finding my engine number but the log book has the same number as the Chassis - and I can't see it on the block. I also will need to do the cam belt on my 2001 MK2 115. ( again first one done at 34k now up to 75k) Is there any fundamental differences or is it broadly the same? I have a kit to hold the camshaft etc. Any advice gratefully recieved. Bigjeeze

:lol: Sounds like real value for money. Who are they? :lol:

Hi Ivor sounds like a good day was had by all - How much did it cost?

B) Can someone tell me whether my car has the pad warning system on it? I have a 2001 facelift 115 TDi. Ghia I was replacing the drop links the other day and I looked at the pads which seem to be quite low - but as yet I have seen no warning lights. Do I have that fitted?

Hi I have successfully made new carpets for the front of my Ghia - but I managed to break one of those irritating clips that hold the carpet in position. Does anyone know where to get them? Cheers Jeeze

OK I agree I should give him the benefit of the doubt - But I still think that whether or not someone used to work for a dealer or still does - He shouldn't use this site to advertise a dealership he has a possible interest in. :rolleyes: Jeeze

This is an interesting topic - I currentlyhave two Galaxy's - My wife's has done 116K miles - has had two new Track Rod ends after 85K - other than that just service items and the odd few faults. My MK2 has after 65K had new track rod ends and now needs the drop links - Why is it that the Mark 1 has the original drop links with no problems but the later model lasts less time. Getting a bit fed up with this poor quality stuff! Jeeze