Masked Marauder

There is a vent button on the top of the filler hole, the larger diesel nozzle usually presses it open. Or perhaps because we don't fill up as often we have more patience.

Tappets for the 110 diesel are cheap from GSF and easy to change. It is a camshaft off job, but straight forwards.

99% of the time this is the problem, Yes a split pipe. Likely to get very involved if it's anything else. I presume it is a petrol engin he has then?

Be wary of cold start, if your valves don't seal right you can get a flash-back! Should be fine though!

When you try to start, does it start but die straight away?

Yes, unplug the thermal switch under the scuttle panel and put a 10 amp mini-fuse into the connector.

Well I think the problem has arisen from when it was run on bio-fuel as it is not designed to run in an open flame combustion environment. That would cause the inital gumming up, and then the problem would just get worse from there.

Check the carbon canister and pipes to and from it. It is located in the passenger side wing.

Yes, when the air is set to blow onto the floor it also comes out there.

No, thats the ones for the engine.

http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdImage/64268.jpg

The switch is actually two switches in one. There is a little pin inside that when the pedal is not pressed holds the contacts open on the brake light switch and the other contacts (for the ECU switch) are closed. When you press the pedal the pin moves off the brake light part of the switch allowing it to close and moves onto the ECU side opening it. So when the system checks it looks for one switch open, the other closed. If it finds both open or both closed it flags it up as an "implausible signal" on the ECU module. So thus, it is possible for the brake lights to still work and the switch to be faulty.

This might helptdi6yr.pdf

Electricity has to come from somewhere and you get nothing for nothing. So, yes, the booster will be burning about a gallon of fuel for every 7 hours it runs at full blast, but you will also be using the alternator to generate more power for lights, fans wipers etc, and that uses more fuel too.

And don't waste your

What mileage is your car?

The squeak is most likely the tensioner on the auxiliary belt. The service warning is time/mileage dependant, did you have the vehicle serviced early? It should be every 12 months or 10K miles, which ever comes first. You can reset it by holding in the trip counter button whilst switching the ignition on and off four times. Apparently. I have never seen my service warning.

I give in, what is it used for? Ok, easy one for you instead, what is the "Search" button at the top of the forum page for?

Aye, but watch you don't scratch the cluster on the clip in the middle at the bottom where the plastic surround clips on. Pull it off to be sure.

If your steering is vague then get the tracking checked. If it is found to be fine then get a half a degree of toe-in put on it.

I spoke to a friend of mine who used to be a Manager for Tandy before they became a toy shop. He now works as an electronics designer and is currently working on a HUD for cars. He said that a TX radio control crystal should be within tolerance, but without seeing the circuit he can not be 100% sure.

26.995Mhz crystal are common on the AM 27Mhz Remote Control model scale. Whether one would work or not is not something I know much about.

Sticky Stuff remover. http://www.euroffice.co.uk/itm_groups.asp?...CFS5UEgodR2R4lg

Aye, GSF and pretend it is a VW Sharan.

A blonde, wanting to earn some money, decided to hire herself out as a handyman-type and started canvassing a wealthy neighbourhood. She went to the front door of the first house and asked the owner if he had any jobs for her to do. "Well, you can paint my porch. How much will you charge?" The blonde said, "How about