Andrew T

Not accurate, but consistantly inaccurate. Mine shows about 5% better MPG than the figure calculated manually.

I had the same problem after a flat battery, I discovered the Radio had been changed under warranty. I rang the dealer who changed it and they gave me the new code - no mention of crossing their palms with silver. Well done to Lawtons of Tadcaster.

Has the previous owner changed the code ?

Rev related is likely to be an exhaust heat shield.

The highest mileage car in the world (and it's a petrol).

Yes, to pass an MOT you will need to change the headlights to ones which dip to the other side. Speedo must display MPH, does it show MPH on an inner scale as ours show KMH ? If not some Japananese imports use a scale stuck onto the speedo glass which I presume must be OK.

Tim, By the scuttle extension do you mean the ribbed plastic section that goes between the trailing edge of the bonnet and the windscreen ? (The rubber strip pulls off in seconds BTW).

Maybe not the master cylinder then, when mine went the brakes got gradually soggier until I realised they were almost none existent. Has the fluid ever been changed ? Fluid absorbs water through the brake hoses, if yours is on 10 year old fluid it would be quite easy to get to boil with 2 or 3 hard applications.

My money's on the master cylinder. Do you get a reduction in braking before it goes, is it linked to prolonged periods of brake usage, or is it there one time and not the next ?

The matting is in a single piece with the drivers side. I've not heard of anyone removing the whole thing, as a lot of stripping would be required. I cut out the matting section (beneath the carpet) in the passengers floor well by sawing it out with a short kitchen devil knife (and a revolting job it is too). as far as the leak is concerned if you've eliminated the washer pipe and pollen filter how about clearing the scuttle drains from underneath ? (do a search) or failing that there are odd reports of poor windscreen sealing. Pipe / Clearing Scuttle Drains.

Does the assembly come to bits, or can you withdraw the whole assembly through the narrow gap that is exposed when you remove the rubber sealing strip ?

3 days and not a PSI lost. Thanks MM for the Solution (excuse the crap pun).

This was posted last week if you get TIS it should tell you how to remove the assy, it's certainly not obvious.

The problem is due to corrosion building up between the Alloy spindle casting and steel shaft of the spindle beneath the nut where the wiper bolts on. The best way is to remove the assembly and strip and grease it. However I coudn't see how to do this so I followed another suggestion. Unbolt the wipers, pop off the plastic shroud beneath them, drill a 2mm hole into the Alloy casing near top, facing the wing. Squirt in some thin oil from an aerosol with a tube while running the wipers to ensure it has spread about. In future you will be able to squirt oil in without removing the wipers. Took about 15 mins to do each side.

Yes I've come across that on a previous car, water was leaking form the top of the Radiator and was mostly evaporating off the back of the Rad. The large undertray stooped anything dribbling on the Ground. It was only apparent when removing the Radiator where the water had been going.

I can't use the spare as it's a steel, also I always need a fully inflated spare to hand because of where we live and the number of punctures we get (at least 5 a year). I've used the same tyre fitter dozens of times over the years and have confidence in him. I watched him inspect the seal at the bead and test it. I also saw the wheel in the water trough and confirmed that air is escaping at the base of the valve. If the goo seals it I'll be happy, if not I'll try another fitter.

Thanks all. I'll try a can of sealant and see if that does the trick. Obvious really I should have been able to think of that myself........

It's losing around 2-3 PSI/Day.

I've had the same tyre back to repairers four times. He is adament that the leak is from the valve. So far it's has the valve reseated and glued in, a new valve fitted (and then reseated and glued in) a now a new metal valve fitted. It still leaks just not quite as fast. I wondered if an innertube could be fitted (should they really be used on tubeless tyres ?) but was told they are not available for low profile tyres. Do I recall once hearing that Alloys wheels can go porous with age ? Can anyone help ?

56 Mph was never a standard, it equates to 90 Kph , as 75 Mph equates to 120 Kph. It was used when the fuel consumption figures were first issued to tie in with industry norm in Europe at that time. The idea was simply to illustrate how fuel consumption deteriorates as speed increases.

Do a search on posts over 30 days old, but try calling it a load area cover or blind. It's been covered many times before.

Well, 72nd out of 100 for Reliabilty (but only 59th overall) in the 2002 Auto Express / Driver Power survey, Last in the Top Gear JD Power survey (2000 I think). I am not familiar with What Car, is it a Survey or the magazines impression during road test ?

Hmmmmmm.......Reliable if looked after ? Do you mean by a dealer ? What dealer is going to clear scuttle drains, check rear washer pipes, change the battery before it fails prematurely, Check the A/C condensor for cracks, keep tyre fitters away from the spare wheel winch and strip and lubricate the wiper assy ? My own extended maintainance schedule now has to include bi-annual clearing of the scuttle drains, checking for a leaking washer pipe, lubricating the wiper pivots through the hole I've had to drill and jet washing the rear brake calipers so mud doesn't build up on them and seize the Handbrake. This is like looking after a 1950s car which needs greasing every thousand miles! Lets face it if the Galaxy was anything like reliable it wouldn't come at or near bottom of every reliability pole I've seen. And it's a shame because it is a good product ruined by niggling problems which the manufacturer is too tight fisted to do anything about.

After 12 months and 20,000 miles I can say the Galaxy is both the best and worst car I have ever owned. As a design there is little wrong with it, yes the rear seats are heavy and tricky to fit (although they get easier with practice). The front seats that feel shapeless and unsupportive when you first get in, feel exactly the same after 15 hours so they must be quite good. Road noise is high on Dunlop tyres but there is a suggestion that other makes are better. Wind noise builds rapidly above the mid 70s. For a big lump of a thing it handles very well, although some of the latest generation of MPVs may be better. Some members who have test driven the Galaxy against newer models still bought the Galaxy, confirming the integrity of this ten year old design. Having previously owned a Citroen Xantia I thought I knew about unreliability, but owning a Galaxy has really opened my eyes! I won’t bore you with the details but they are there in my posts if you care to look. The annoying thing is that most of these problems are design flaws that go back to day one, but that VW have chosen to do nothing about.

Are you sitting comfortably ? Leaking rear washer pipe and/or blocked scuttle drains causing flooding under the front passenger seats and the electronics sited there. Failure of Condensor and /or most other components in the Aircon system. Spare wheel winch cable tangling up (yours has worked once but did it get tangled on the way back up?). Silver Calcium battery failing after 3 winters. Wiper linkage seizing up. Anti roll bar Drop links need replacing every of couple years. The good news is that this site offers cheap solutions to most of these problems. As for the Aircon.......do you have a warranty ? Thank goodness everything in life isn't as unreliable as a Volkswagen!