Audiman

Got fed up busting my knuckles - I took the car for Fraud. Fraud had a look and told me that they had to undo the front dash - what a load of rubbish. I showed them how to tighten the 'o' ring to the pillar without removing the dash !!!! I wanted in the waiting area, they called me back and said I needed a new connector and new wiring loom - what a load of rubbish (

I'm having real diffculty reconnecting the wiring loom back into the pillar. I've tried aligning the mail connector into pillar using the protrusions. I'm not sure if I need to lock the 3 locking tabs first and then try to turn the connect clockwise (not sure how the pins will line up when turning Do I need to lock the three locking tabs before connecting into the pillar ???????

Sounds like a faulty alternator pulley - see post's on possible symptoms

I did my pulley last weekend - Littledaz's info is a good way to determine whether it's a pulley issue. I found that you really need to remove the alternator out OF THE CAR (undo 2 bolts) holding it in place. There just isn't enough space to use yours tools. YOU WILL need a special tool to remove the pulley. I've tried it without it - it's impossible. (cannot purchase tool from anywhere else except Sealy Distributors & GFS). One part of the tool holds the alternator shaft stationary whilst the other part takes the pulley off.SEE BELOW LITTLEDAZ'S POST. There is good news and bad news. The good - the pulley is available as a separate part ( about

Can you unlock it with the key in the lock? No Can you open it from inside by leaning across from the passenger side and pulling the open handle? No You got put the key in the ignition and then open the use the interior door handle - :(

That's funny MK2vr6 .....made me laugh. I was thinking more of CROW BAR and SLEDGE HAMMER! I managed to get it open - get into the car via passenger door & You need to get the key in the ignition then use the door lever to shut then open ......wala

I've got a MK2 Galaxy - I had a problem with the wiring loom and joined the two broken wires together (3 weeks ago) Today the drivers door wouldn't open - suspect one of the wires broke inside the loom again. This is preventing me opening the door. There is no flashing led on the door. All the other doors open via remote key. My worry is that I need the door open to get to the wiring loom. I've tried disconnecting the battery without success. Any ideas how to open the door ?

found out how to release the tension on the belt LEVER A SCREWDRIVER BETWEEN THE TENSIONER AND ALTERNATOR - DEAD EASY.

Just in the process of changing my alternator pulley. Cannot work out how to release the tension on the Auxilliary belt. The tensioner is bolted by three 13mm bolts, the alternator is bolted by 2 bolts. My tensioner is also bouncing up and down

Seatkid I hope your right - I phoned Fraud this afternoon, they told me that my galaxy has only two belts, the auxilary and timing belt. Fraud have already changed the auxilary belt (when I got the timing belt done). This didn't make any difference. Is it easy to get to the Steering pump belt and tighten the tensioner. I suspect I need to take the skid pan off ?

Sorry chaps - that should have been Alternator Pulley. Any pictures and instructions as where to start etc would be appreciated

JohnR - Brilliant link. I've got a similar issue. On tickover when I turn the steering wheel I can hear and feel the pump belt slip and judder. I suspect it's a tensioner problem ? Also when I put the air conditioning on, I can hear a rumbling sound - is it the same belt ? Anyone got pictures of the alternative pulley or tensioner - what do I need to undo to get them out ?

I've got problem with all my tyres. I fill them up to 45psi, but after about 2 days they all deflate down to about 38psi. The front two tyres were the worst going down to 24psi and 30psi I've been to the tyre fitters twice and they couldn't find anything wrong. On the third trip I insisted that the tyre\valve be left in the bath for a longer period. FOUND the odd bubbles coming from the rubber seal on the metal valves. I bought 2 new valves from Fraud thinking it would fix the problem. No such luck now a bit better still going down to 32psi from 45psi. I have Dunlops fitted - does everyone's pressure go down ? (I have a 2003 Zetec with alloy wheels).

Silly me ... the man from Delmonte he say YES. Sorry Suzuki91 - I'll try switching either of the screens on.

I meant heated WING MIRRORS not screen.

Hi, I've got a MK2 2003 TDI Zetec - does this have heated wing mirrors ?

I agree mis-shaped tyre - balancing won't fix it. Jack your car and spin the wheel - also check the tread by running your hand over the tyre, mis guess is you'll find the fault.

I came accross a Kwik Fit fitter who serviced a Audi Avant with 600,000mile on the clock. I think VW/Audi diesel engines can easily cover 350 to 400,000 miles.

Thanks Suzuki91 - I took your advice and bought a new fob from Frauds. They told me it won't work without coding it,

Thanks NikPV -your info was great. figured out that the door was stopping the sleeve coming out - had to partially shut the door to remove the sleeve and rubber pipe. Unfortunately the retaining ring has come off. A bitch to put back on. I cannot seem to reclip the whole together again. Do I need to fit the sleeve onto the pillar first and then clip the rubber hose into the sleeve? I'VE DE-SKINNED MY FINGERS TRYING SO FAR !!!!!!!

Here some instructions and pictures I took a while ago to remove the Resistor pack. 1) Unclip the side plastic shown below: 2) Unclip the top flap on the glovebox 3) Unclip the the glovebox lever on the right-hand side. This is used to give the golvebox a soft opening/closing. Then unclip the golvebox from the bottom hinges and should be able to see th Resistor Pack in green. 4) Unclip the leads going into the Resistor pack 5) Unscrew the torx screw holding the Resistor pack 6) This is the Resistor pack Re-installing the Resistor pack is the reverse procedure. Anyway hope this helps you.

Initially I had problems with my remote locking - Fraud had changed the battery and it worked okay for about 2 weeks - gradually getting worse. I thought the problem maybe with my remote key fob because I could lock the door with the key okay. I soldered the micro switches on the fob and contact on the pcb. This seemed to work okay but remote locking got finally worse again. This morning I tried to open the wiring loom on the door to check for broken wires. I turned the wiring grommet anti-clockwise but couldn't get it off. I've tried WD40, but when I turn the plastic, then whole rubber grommet turns as well. How can I get this damn thing off! Now I have bigger problem after fiddling with the wiring loom, the key locking stopped working - NOW MY CAR IS OPEN TO THE WORLD !!!!!

1) Fan working only setting 4 = failure of Resistor Pack. You're switch is more than likely okay. The Resistor pack cost about

Mirez and Gregers - you're both right 30 to 34mpg in town isn't bad for a 2 ton bus. I have a 2003 Zetec TDI which always seems to be going wrong. At least the turbo and wipers are okay - possibly changed by previous owner l hope!!!!! I fixed reverse sensor last week - wire had scuffed and worn away to the sensor. Still got problem with remote key and airconditioning. Tried changing the main bulb on the driverside or topping up brake fluid..........ha ha ha.....

I had a problem with my remote locking/unlocking very hit'n'miss. Previously I tried reprogramming it, cleaning the fob interior - nothing seemed to work. Took it to Fraud - they changed the battery (still hit'n'miss). I must have opened the fob about 15 times to check connection to the battery and connectivity, reprogramming. I FIXED IT LAST NIGHT. THE FOB HAD 2 PROBLEM 1) I re-soldered the point where the battery connections met the pcb. I suspect the battery had been making a loose connection with the pcb, resulting in wear on the board. I put a blob of solder and sanded it smooth. 2) Because the above problem, the previous owner though by pressing harder on the remote it may work. The result of this was it caused a crack in the solder from the on/off button to the pcb. I resoldered the point of contact. Now the fob works 100%