Audiman

I had the same problem - your water pump is knackered. Plastic impeller is spinning on the metal spindle. Don't be tempted to change it for a metal impeller - reason why plastic is used.....just incase of "bearing failure", using a metal impeller would damaged the alloy head. I agree with Seatkid's comments

Don't worry about the alternator belt jumping up/down - as long as you don't have a high pitch screeching sound, otherwise ok. Another cause of jumping alternator belt - occurs when the pulley seizes. Why do you think you have a faulty water pump? are you over heating ? Are you getting hot air when you switch-on the heaters ? if so then waterpump is okay.

Hi Chaps, My last trip to Italy went beautifully. This year - Did a 4000 mile trip to Switzerland/Italy and Germany. What an adventure. We went up/down the Alps could see the glaciers so close. In some places I had to drive in 1st and 2nd gear. Galaxy went like a dream.......until overheating in Austria ! damn!!! The damn waterpump failed. Ford in Germany wanted 200 Euro to change the thermostat and another 800 Euro to change the waterpump (that's almost

Anyone got some decent diagrams for the cooling flow for the radiator,water pump and overflow tank. There's so many pipes there (Galaxy TDI 2004 Zetec), cannot workout whats,what? I had a problem with overheating - no loss of coolant. I went to Switzerland(up/down mountains), Italy (Lake Garda,Verona & Venice). I gave it a good bashing on the engine, even managed to bash the door in the Verona car park. In Germany the temperature went a bit crazy on the autobahns (ie went upto red). I let it cool down and noticed that If I maintained a speed of 65MPH temperature stabilized at 110C. Got ripped off Germany FRAUD garage who wanted 850 Euro to change the thermostat and water pump. Got them to remove the thermostat for 100 Euro's (didn't have a replacement in stock) Drove back to the UK at 65MPH for 670 miles.....blimey took for ever!!!! Finally got the waterpump fixed for

I'd go for the seized alternator pulley. It rotates in one direction when there's no fault. When it's fauly, locks up and works like a pulley. I had a similar problem and replaced the pulley from GSF. Ford (or rather FRAUD) wanted to sell me a whole alternator instead of replacing the pulley - cannot buy pulley separate from Ford. Otherwise you may have a buckled wheel if it's a constant wobble. My wife once told me she had a puncture, only to find a chunck missing about the size of a tennis ball, and a buckled wheel......she'd hit the kerb and buckled the alloy...

If your calipers done rotate or move back, then you've got a seized caliper. I wouldn't bother installing seal kits etc - I'd just replace a faulty caliper. As mentioned by Seatkid, the wind back tools is fairly cheap. Spray some WD40 on the rubbers before winding back.

What a nightmare. I read all the advice about removing and installing a new wheel bearing on my Galaxy. Originally on one side(NS)the rear wheel rotated easily. The other side (OS) it was a bit stiff - so I decided that the wheel bearing must have gone faulty - (the same wheel had a seized caliper that caused overheating - sealed bearing no grease etc etc). I installed the new bearing in - this is stiff as well. Maybe I didn't need to change the wheel bearing after all!!!! From my experience - don't even think about knocking it out with a hammer, or heating the housing etc etc. YOU WILL NEED A HEAVY DUTY SLIDE HAMMER to extract the rear hub. Don't even think about anything else!!! You'll be pi**ing in the wind or have more chance farting your way to the moon! When putting in the new bearing, use your old bearing to knock in - then tighten up using the nut and big washer

I had similar issue on my Galaxy, changed the battery still fob intermittienly working. I dismantled the remote so many times to check the connectivity - no success Tried re-coding many times...no success I think the problem is that the fob doesn't re-synch. properly. Decided to purchase a new fob - fraud dealer wanted 1 hours labour plus parts + vat. I read an article regarding re-coding and told fraud I could code it in 10secs, why are you charging over

My mistake chaps - Apologies to Gregers and Mirez - Owe a pint to each of you. I thought you had to remove the plastic cowling on the windscreen to get access underneath it (like the Golf 2001 TDI). This is not the case on the Galaxy!!! Got the message - leave the wipers alone and undo the 3 bolts...lol :rolleyes:

Apologies Gregers - it was Mirez who quoted that. I buy you a pint to make up ;)

Nevermind - It's all a learning experience here - this is what you suggested anyway Correct, remove that first! You then need to remove the wiper arms and the plastic panels all then pop off, you are reasonbly unlikely to do it without breaking them though so unless you really need to I wouldn't bother. You should be able to get to the drains with just the scuttle removed though, the rest of the trim won't give that much more access as there is metal work under them anyway. This site is fantastic - we all get advice from each other and I really appreciate it. It's been raining all day and I couldn't try it.

Okay boys I'II LEAVE THE F' IN WIPERS ALONE Thanks Gregers I'm blaming this on you - on your earlier post you told me to take the wipers off. I'm leaving the wipers on otherwise mk2vr6 might get a little upset with me.

I cleaned out a bucket of mud from my Golf under the plastic cowling after it was blocked and water began to come into the cabin. Just want to do some preventative measures. Sounds easy to do on the Galaxy ....., un do 3 bolts and slide out the plastic cowling.... are you sure that I don't need to unbolt the wipers like the Golf ?

I recently purchased a Galaxy and due to smells in cabin I have changed mine (there wasn't one there at all -hence smell). You need to take off engine cover and then remove the bulkhead extension - it has the top rubber bonnet seal pushed on to it and is held in place by three bolts - far left, middle and far right of top of engine bay. The extension will pull out once bolts removed and you will need to pull on left side more so you cam feed it around the water bottle. You should now be able to see the filter on the right hand side running from the centre to the right end of the engine bay. It is held in place by a plastic cover which the filter sits in. Hope this helps. Fantastic - I'll have a go this weekend - british weather.....it's raining again.

Not sure what you mean Gregers ? 2 bolts hold the wipers on, where is the other bolt. Do I need to use a screwdriver to prise the cowling away from the windscreen?

Could be a worn wheel bearing. Happened to me on my old golf. There was not play when checking for movement. When I removed checled the wheel bearing the races were scorced. It's probably worth checking this.

I want to remove the plastic cowling under the winscreen to check if the drainage holes are clear of leaves\rubbish. How do take the cowling off without damaging it

It's a problem with the solenoid. I had the same issue on my golf. Old grease in the solenoid is stopping the spring from pushing the yoke back on startup There's 3 screws that holds the soleniod to the motor. Undo these and remove the plastic cover - you will find the yoke grease/oil has dried up. Use brake cleaner to clean out then regrease/oil the yoke This will fix it..........work perfect for me now.

I had the same problem a coupl of years ago with the resistor - do a search user "Audiman" - you should get a reply which I used.

Thanks Willie, That was quite good writeup. Just had all new tyres, discs and brake pads done. Also had a brand new winch installed. Everything actually works okay on the car, which makes a change. Because of the mileage the only thing I'm worried about is the clutch (150,000miles) which is the original one. What the hell, life's full of risks - if the clutch goes, l'll have to get it fixed locally. I know in Switzerland l'll need to buy a yearly tax\toll disc. Not really sure where to buy this from ?

Hi everyone, In May, I'm planning a massive trip through Europe (France, Switzerland, Italy, Germany) and hopefully back to UK. Just need some advice on parts to take with me - things which are likely to break etc. My Galaxy is a 2003 TDI - I've had the timing belt and aux belt changed already, current mileage is 150,000 (purrs like a pussy cat though) Has anyone done anything like this before ?

Victor1, I had a similiar issue with binding brakes after changing the discs and pads. I used the car for a month or so and noticed one of the discs had a blue'ish colour *suspected overheating/binding I recalled I had a problem taking off one of the slider bolts when I was installing the pads/discs. Took out the caliper and noticed a very sight bend in the slider bolt. So when the caliper presses on the pads, it got caught on the bent slider bolt. There is no way of getting this straight with a hammer - I tried it 3 times. In the end I had to purchase half of the caliper from fraud.

I had a issue with the central locking. Some doors won't lock, sometimes failed totally etc etc etc and more etc. Just a bunch of weird problems. Box under the seat was okay. I took apart the drivers door wiring loom & rubber boot - noticed someone had previously done a repair job on the wiring - wire detached. I soldered the wire and used shrink tubing bought from Maplins. Works like a dream now. Sometimes the problem looks complicated - Wiring loom fault on these Galaxy's are a very common fault.

If your fan doesn't work on setting 1 & 2 - more than likely your resistor pack has failed for the heater/fan speed. It's worth changing for your fault as a starting point - approx