dlt1617

See below as I think this refers to the noise, also as it's a different control unit to stop it I wouldn't worry about it as it's been doing it for years Best wishes Dave TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN No.53/2002 Car and Light/Medium Commercial 30.05.2002 Section: 307-01B Model: 2000.75 Galaxy with 1.9L TDI engine (85 kW) and AG5 automatic transmission, built from 10.12.2001 to 14.03.2002 (build code 1E to 2S) Markets: All Subject: Noises from the intake system (in particular a charge gurgling) during overrun Summary Should a customer express concern over noises from the intake system (in particular a charge gurgling) during overrun, the probable cause is excessive boost pressure and air swirl in the turbocharger intake tract. To rectify this concern, the powertrain control module (PCM) with software level 1516 should be removed and a PCM with software level 1561 should be installed. The boost pressure and subsequently the air swirl are reduced during overrun with the new software. Parts Required

If the ring is ok and the sensor has been replaced I would double check the sensor is fully in on the stub axle - I did mine and thought all was well but had similar problems. only other thought would be excessive play in the wheel bearing but I'd try the sensor first Dave

The injector on cylinder 4 was replaced and also wiring harness to the injectors, also removed the sump and the rods looked fine eventually paid for the compression test to be done at a local garage as the one I bought of e-bay was rubbish. Cylinder 4 was 300 psi when the others ranged from 400 - 450 psi Second hand engine now awaiting fitting! A WORD OF WARNING......IF YOUR TURBO GOES AND IT MISFIRES AFTER IT COULD BE A BENT ROD! GOOD LUCK Dave

Sorry to bump my own post, Ive bought a compression tester from e-bay so I'll hopefully have some results to report shortly as to lack of compression or not Dave

May be a red herring but if you have a MK1 Galaxy I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a broken wire. If you have a look at the positive connections on to the battery you will see the main lead but then connected to that a thin wire, mine looked like it was connected but when I applied a bit of pressure to the insulation it just separated at the connector to the battery lead. A simple new round crimped connector was all that was required. I hope this might help Best wishes Dave

My turbo charger unfortunately went recently, since it's replacement I've had an intermitant misfire on cylinder 4 at idle , the engine starts from cold and smokes excessively (smells of diesel not oil)but then stops as it warms up. I've replaced the injector harness and swopped a secondhand injector in but the new injector readings are worse than the old. The odd thing is the engine still pulls well and is not always lumpy at idle. Next step is too test the compressions but here's the question how do you do that on one of these engines as I'm a petrol guy so new to diesel, with an adaptor onto the glow plug hole was one thought but am I right also anyone got any other ideasd on the problem? Best wishes Dave Oh and one other thought new seals for the injector and the retaining bolts for replacing it came to 50 quid (quite a bit more than I thought!)

Hi I'd be thinking more along the lines of fuel problems, does it smoke when it does start as if it's burning of the excess fuel or does it start normally? The thought being and air leak causing the fuel to run back to the tank Dave

As far as I can remember on mine there was one main fuse box on the driver's side lower dash and some relays up by the battery for thw fans and that's about it. Do you have a spevcific question or problem? Dave

Only a thought I had problems with a loss of wipers which was caused by a broken wire on the positive terminal on the battery, it was only a thin wire but the break stopped the wipers and indicators May be a red herring but might help someone :) Dave

Have a look for Ford TIS downloads on google and you'll probably find plenty of torrent downloads or there's usually some being sold on fleabay B

My money would be a fault with broken wires to the tailgate, try turning off the interior light and see if the lights in the boot stay on Dave

What do you need external diagrams or inside the gearbox? only reason for asking is try your local dealer as with electronic parts systems they may be able to print of a picture if you ask the nicely :) Otherwise TIS may have a diagram I could copy and send Let me know if you want something posted Dave

With the age of the car I'd check the wiring on the tailgate, it's easy to check but a pain to repair. Pull back the gaitor on the right hand side of the tailgate and you will see the harness, pull off the tape around the harness and if you don't see several broken wires I'll be very much suprised. I've had two galaxys and both needed wiring repairs (one was a 98 and the other was a 2002). The best way to repair is to remove the tailgate trim and the trims up the back pillars, disconnect the harness in tailgate and then pull the harness back in to the car so that the broken section is inside. This will the allow you to put in a length of cable for each wire that needs repairing as if you just solder the original wires together where they have broken they will just break again. Dave

I've recently swopped my much loved 2.3 auto for a 2002 tdi which I so far love to bits.....Yes there's a but comiming...apart from a vibration about 15 mph when accelerating. Much like me you are probably thinking common problem with the inner cv joint (so did I when a bought it) but both the driveshafts are new :) Apon further investigation different parts of the inner cv joints stick out from the flange when comparing left to right flanges/joints My question is fairly straight forward is it possible to position the cv joint wrongly on the flange? also if so which way is right????? Best wishes Dave

Does the engine tun over but not start or do you get just a click? Also are the vehicles auto or manual? Dave

Hi Joost, I had the same problem on my 98 2.3 glx - I searched all the posts on here and it came up with two suggestions - the fuel pump relay (replaced but no difference) or relay 30 whichis a main power relay on the second layer of relays in the main fuse box on the driver's side. I didn't think it was that as I work in a BMW garage and as it was the immobilser light flashing they all told me it was a key problem!! Replaced the relay job was a good un! Dave