dlt1617

The cup holders are held in by tabs on the top of them, if you slide a feeler gauge in the gap above the cup holder one in top left and top right and push it to release the clips and the cup holder just pulls out. They are pushed in with the flat part horizontal. Dave

Have a look below if think this is what you need ;) Best wishes Dave http://www.vagcat.com/p/B244/131250.png

Sorry a bit late for me to reply but is it a Mk 1 or Mk 2? If it's a Mk2 email me on dlt1617atsky.com and I'll give you the details Dave

Hi a simple question does the interior light work when the driver's door is opened? If not it could be as easy as a faulty door switch. Best wishes Dave

The roll restrictor is bolted to the bottom of the engine and goes back to the subframe, i you look about the middle of the car on the bottom of the sump towards the back you'll see it.

Hi welcome to the forum I think you could have two problems, the cutting out whilst driving could be due to a faulty camshaft or crankshaft sender but also could be due to an idle control valve, When it cutout was it when the engine was idling or when at a constant throttle/accelerating. The problem of the ignition lights only was this when trying to start the car - if it was check using the search facility on the forum as the is a regular relay that needs replacing and I think the post includes a how to with pictures Best wishes Dave

Hi Dave the later Galaxys are not my strong point but some one may come in with a bettter/more accurate suggestion. When I worked for BMW there were two causes of low rail pressure (other than the sensor) one was that one injector was leaking so it dropped the pressure across the whole rail, the other was due to a pre supply pump fault. The pre supply pump was fitted in the fuel line from the tank to the high pressure pump and ran constantly with the ignition on. It could be that the pump fails when hot or it could be I'm talking out of my bottom! Best wishes Dave

What model and year would be helpful, also what obvious things have you already done and what sort of juddering do you have i.e. from the engine, the clutch/take up of drive, at a certain speed, through the steering.....i think you've got the idea. The more information you supply the better the suggestions Dave

Hi Dave welcome to the forum, you've mentioned your problem but not what vehicle/model and year it refers to! Everybody does it ! Best wishes Dave

Have you tried selecting the gears when stationary and the engine is off? If the gears can be selected cleanly then it could be a clutch problem rather than linkage/gearbox Best wishes Dave

The pipe you are talking about is part of the air filter case, cheepest option buy one from a breaker/ebay. The reason the dealer is not sure which pipe you need is because the parts illustration would not show a small pipe clearly. Best wishes Dave

My 02 1.9 tdi has an abs sensor which also includes the cable that goes to the front brake wear sensor on the passengerside which is the expensive one - not sure about the driveside..... Dave

One of the abs sensors is fooling the control unit that the wheel is looked, as stated above it could be a cracked abs ring or a faulty sensor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-GALAXY-95-06-FRONT-ABS-RELUCTOR-RING-ABS011/370445363135 will give you an idea of what the ring looks like, it's fitted on the cv joint just behind the hub on the front (I'm not sure abou the rear ones as I've never looked!) If the rings are ok check the fault memory to find out which sensor Best wishes Dave

Hi Kev, the wiring in the tailgate normally does not have a seperate wire going from the brake light to the rear light it just has a plug going to the brakelight with two wires in it. It is possible someone has tried wiring directly to the brake light on the rear lamp due to a wiring problem. If I was checking it I would get either a multimeter to check the voltage or a test light to see if there is a power supply going to the brake light when the brake pedal is depressed, if not test which pin on the rear lamp has a supply for the brake light and tap into that.(this may be what has happened hence the brown wire) Dave

A fewways of doing this both horrible! Remove the egr valve behind to gain access (total pig!) Or as I did remove it with a short spanner from under the egr valve (yes it horrible andyes I lost count of the number of times I dropped it!) Dave

On aftermarket stereos the red is normally the permanet live and the yellow is ignition, if you have swopped the yellow and red wires around and it is still the same I have only two other suggestions. The permenant live is connected to both the yellow and red wires or when you are testing the wiring you are turning of the ignition but NOT removing the key the latter matters as the radio is still provided with an ignition live even in the off position until the door is opened or the key is removed. Best wishes Dave

Hi the cost to buy one last year was about £60.00 the part number should be easy for your local vw dealer to find just quote your details but change the first bit to Vw Sharan! I would check both the Ford and Vw prices just in case as they do change. Dave

Hi Bill did they quote you a part number for the pas pump they changed on your invoice? I would be tempted to check the pump fitted is correct and from a reputable supplier Dave

I would do a Euro car parts application check for your car and then swop the details to the earlier model and see if they list the same part number.........as the advert says.......simples! Dave

Hi Bob if yours has the basic heater set up with the three knobs and the a/c, rear heater and recicultate buttons underneath (like mine so not being snobby!) it's very simple the rectangular surround around the Knobs and buttons is only clipped on, if you gentley put something flat between the surround and the dash you can lever it of just work your way around until fully released. Disconnect your battery - Make sure you have your radio code! The heater panel is held in with a screw in each corner, there are three connectors on the back, two of them have a release tab that you just press to release, the other has a clip which you pull from the one end and it pivots and as the clip swings around the plug moves upwards and releases. I hope this helps. Best wishes Dave

I forgot to mention the parking sensor fault is most likely to be either damaged wiring to a sensor or a faulty sensor. I would do a check for chaffedbroken wires by the sensors and if that was ok I would get another sensor and then using this sensor I would swop it for each one on the car until it was fixed. If you have a fault reader a fault memory test may show which sensor is faulty but not always. Best wishes Dave

Two possible problems if the fuses are ok - the heater has a rheostat to control the speed of the fan as your fan speed was all over the place this would be the more likely problem or the motor it's self is faulty - possible but motors usually die completely. The rheostats are available new or used on fleabay but I think you need to check as I think they are different if you have automatic air con to basic. Best wishes Dave

Hi I'm sorry to say but if the tailgate cannot be opened from the outside the only other option is to break the interior trim and then release it from inside. The list of things not working on the tailgate all sound like a wiring repair again but the o/s/r door problem is odd, the only problem I have had with a rear door lock was when the cable from the interior handle broke is your handle floppy? Best wishes Dave

I was being lazy as I had to take the dogs for a walk - see link below! http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html Best wishes Dave

I think it includes a link to VCDS Lite which would need to be installed, do a search on here and you'll find plenty of info on setting up the interface. Dave