dlt1617

http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/galaxy-for-bits-10-for-any-bit/108173824 might be worth a call Best wishes Dave

Try the contact seller option on ebay for people avertising "breaking ford galaxy or vw sharan or seat alahambra" as sometimes the prices rthy come back with are no where near as high. Best wishes Dave

I have a cheep fault code reader I brought of fleabay which included a copy of VCDS on a disc with it that allows you to test the gauges by allowing to trigger the gauges to go to thier full sweep - only cost about £10.00. Best wishes Dave

Sounds like you found the problem as if you unlock the car by using the key in the door lock and when you turn it to the unlock position you hold it over in that position for a few seconds the windows drop until you release the key. It sounds like your wires bridging was causing the same sort of problems Best wishes Dave

Hi I think I noticed my name mention some where ;) The pictures are great, the connector that needs disconnecting is on the end of the flat black and white lead that comes of the main cicular contact piece under the wheel. If you are careful you don't have to take the top cover off above the indicator and wiper switch but as mentioned it is tucked away in some foam so it's just a case of sliding the foam out of the way to get to it. Best wishes Dave/Dlt1617

Sorry if this is of no use but I used to work for BMW and when you had fuel trim too week and lambda sensor faults is was usually an air leak some where on the intake syatem or sometimes a split breather, as I mentioned could be a red herring but might be worth a google search? Best wishes Dave

Strange I thought someone would have replied to this but as no takers I'll give you a few suggestions :) The first thing to check with any power steering noises is the fluid level as if low the system can become noisy. You haven't mentioned which Galaxy you have, if it's a mark one you can sometimes get a sort of juddering/resonating noise when turning the wheel at walking pace speeds which is caused by the fluid in one of the pas pipes pulsing and resonating the pipe. This pipe was modified to stop the noise but truthfully it doesn't harm anything but can be a bit disconcerting. Otherwise what model/year and when do you get the noise i.e. hot or cold etc would be helpful Best wishes Dave

The fault could be with almost any of the air bag system but the most commomn cause on a Mk 1 (I'm assuming yours is!) is the contact scroll for the driver's air bag. The part shown here ......http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SHARAN-MK1-AIRBAG-WIRING-RING-GALAXY-ALHAMBRA-/251105677250?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a77108fc2 The price seems a bit steep for the one on the link but I got caught out because I bought a used one for about £15 and the light stayed on, then I replaced the driver's air bag and the light stayed on, finally I bought another contact scroll and the light stayed off! So you can buy faulty used ones. To replace it is easy, you disconnect the battery and wait at least 5 minutes before removing the air bag. The air bag is removed by undoing two torque screws from the back of the wheel, you the disconnect the air bag (the connector needs to be pulled straight up from the air bag) you then remove the centre bolt on the wheel (normal thread) but an odd size (I think its a 22 or 23 mm). The contact scroll is held on to the centre of the wheel by three screws so a straight forward swop over, the connector for the contact scroll is hidden in some foam on the side of the column. The description is harder to type than the job is to do! Best wishes Dave

Hi Paul I've just realised I'm being a prat because I don't need the TIS disc to explain this one! The panel around the gear lever which also holds the ashtray is only a push fit, the whole panel unclips including the ashtray. Start from the back of the trim nearest the hand brake and pull it straight up, them work your way forward until the front part is unclipped. Best wishes Dave

Hi I have a TIS disc which covers up to the Mark2 Galaxys but yours could be a Mark 3 If you are not sure the mark 2 looks like this http://www.babez.de/ford/ford-galaxy.php Let me know and I'll have a look Best wishes Dave

Hi just a thought for you try looking at the wires onto the positive side of the battery, I had a problem where a small wire which connects to the positive battery terminal had broken. its only a case of reconnecting it. I may be wrong (as this was about three years ago) but I have a feeling the wipers also did not work with this wire broken. Hope this helps If not at least it takes only seconds to check!!! Best wishes Dave

Hi I would be tempted to disconnect the speed sensor on the gearbox and see if this stops the speedo registering at all. The speed sensor is a common fault so worth trying to take that out of the problem at the start. The speed sensor is fitted at the back of the gearbox with pointing upwards so its a pig to get to from above (but is possible) the wiring going to the sensor has a silver heat sheild (it's a bit like the material fire proof clothing is made from) over the plug. I would disconnect this a try it down the road, if the speedo is dead and no flashy lights I would try a sensor change. It could be a short somewhere else or a earthing problem but worth a go Best wishes Dave

Hi I'm amazed that you have had no other replies, the connector on the top of the injector is only a push fit so long nose pliers on the connector and pull carefully Best wishes Dave

I have to agree with the previous post that it's for the air conditioning. It's the main pipe onto the compressor. The 7m number is the part number - check the price because I think a new one will be quite expensive! Dave

Hi I just thought I'd add an extra comment, I've been having gearbox problems (mine's a 1.9 tdi auto) and I replaced the harness for the autobox. This was not actually the problem (i've still yet to sort that out) but what I found was after putting the secondhand harness on the fuel gauge fluctuated wildly including the fuel reserve warning and the speedo was in-op. Swopping back to the original harness resolved this so if it's an auto I would be looking in the direction of the gearbox harness. Sorry if it's not of use but you never know! Best wishes Dave

Thanks for the suggestion....but the gearbox is smoother when cold and the delay/thump harsher when warm - also 5th gear is non existant even though the car shows everything to say it is in 5th and if you chenge down on the tiptronic from an indicated 5th (actually 4th) it dips the revs slightly ready for the change but does nothing. I don't suppose anyone got a gearbox for one kicking around???? ############################################################### Best wishes Dave

Sorry to bump my own post but I've got a better idea of what the gearbox is doing. It pulls away correctly in first gear, changes to second and then changes straight away to third (this happens even in tiptronic). This change to third takes place not matter the road speed and can only temporarly be stopped by keeping the throttle floored to kick down but even then it still changes early to third. When you release the brake to pull away there is a slight pause and the it jolts into first, the 2nd to 3rd sort of slumps across early and then it thumps into 4th. The gearbox will not got into 5th at any road speed or when using the tiptronic - it's shows the box in 5th on the display but is still in 4th, this is shown as when you select 4th on the tiptronic the revs stay the same. When the display shows 5th gear the revs drop when you back of the throttle as it should do i.e. the engine revs are not locked to the gearbox, when 4th is selected (tiptronic) it is locked so you can use engine braking as it should do. So in summary: Thump when pulling away and the change 3rd to 4th - Down shifts are smooth Selects 2nd but then 3rd straight away not matter what the speed(even in tiptronic but still shows 2nd on display) No 5th gear Display in tiptronic shows selected changes from gear lever but not staying in 2nd as above and no 5th even though shown as in 5th! 00652 only fault shown in fault menory Work done already with no improvements: Swopped gearbox ecu Replaced gearbox oil and N93 valve. Any ideas anyone???? Best wishes Dave

Hi sorry about the delay, I had checked the oil level as far as pulling the level plug out and oil continued to come out even after the amount in the tube had drained out. I drained about 3/4 of a litre out and then drove the car for several days without any problems then just as my daughter was asking does this mean it's fixed it suddenly dropped two gears and then after this a fault has reappeared. The gearbox shows on vag-com all the gears being selected correctly but the gearbox does not select 2nd mechanical or 5th gear either hydraulic or mechanical. The only fault in the fault memory is still 00652 gear monitoring but I suspect this may be due to shoing 5th gear but the box being in 4th gear. The gear changes are also harsher than normal. I obtained another ECU off Fleabay to try and the results are still the same (THIS WILL BE BACK ON THERE FOR SALE SHORTLY!) I've checked this link http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3469274-09A-Tiptronic-Solenoid-Location-Function for the solenoiods but the solenoid shared for 2nd and 5th is also used for 1st and reverse. Any other ideas other than torching the car would be apprecviated as I love the car but I need it working!!! Best wishes Dave

I've got a problem that I'm looking for ideas on what to try, the 5 speed auto in my Galaxy has a problem with going into limp mode but it's not quite as straight forward as that (Oh I wish it was!) If the car when started it is in limp mode you can gently pull away and go off down the road gaining speed and it seems sometimes to change into too high a gear causing shuddering through the car and the revs to drop and then changes gear again until you are at a speed where you can select 5th gear using the tiptronic function, not always but its seems more times than not it will allow you to change down the gears (using the tiptronic function) and then as soon as this happens it drives fine again (until the next time it goes into limp mode). When the car goes into limp mode when driving normally it seems to be when slowing down so the box would be changing from 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st and the if you do the same as above after gaining speed with the tiptronic it will then clear and drive again ok. Something quite strange is I have driven the car on the tiptrnic function making sure the gears are selecting properly and then parked the car and then gone back to it the following day and it's in limp mode even though no faults are listed in the fault memory and itwas ok the night before. The fault memory only shows 00652 gear monitoring, which having spent many hours locking at posts on the internet seems to really mean anything that causes excessive slip so could be solenoids, control unit, valve body or all and any of them! I've cheched the resistances of the solenoids and they are all within range, I've checked the wiring harness from control unit to gearbox for resistance/continuity all with no problems. I'm toying with the idea of replacing the gearbox ecu or replacing the solenoids N88,89 AND 92 as they change the first three gears the only concern is the solenoids also select reverse which I have had no problems with! Does anyone have any ideas???? Also anyone got any of the bits suggested? Best wishes.....I'm now off to a dark room because my brain hurts! Dave

Hi I'm adding this reply as I had the same problem and resolved it so if anyone is searching the posts for an answer this my help! I had a problem with a gear monitoring fault on my 1.9 tdi 2002 auto which was listed as a possible fault with the gear position switch, gearbox oil level or the speed sensor in the geaebox (gulp!). I decided to buy a secondhand loom for the automatic gearbox (it goes from the control unit to the box and connects to the gear position switch as well) as the plug to the gear position switch had been broken when I had the gearbox reconned. Now to the interesting bit! It was a secondhand on of fleebay and when fitted the speedo didn't work and the fuel gauge was erratic (also the take up of drive pulling away was sharp!) reasoning that the new loom must be the reason for the fault I took it back off and spliced the gear position switch plug into the old harness. After refitting the old harness it all now works! S if it's an auto and you've got no speedo and the rev counters erratic try a different loom! Best wishes and I hope this helps someone! Dave

Not really there are too many differences between the Mk1 and Mk2, the recommendation of a TIS disc (have a look on fleabay!) is probably the best one. I've owned both and it takes a bit of time working your way around the way you find things on it but once you are used to it it's far better. The other comment would be use the frequently asked section on here or do a search as almost everthing has been on here before!

Hi I'm hoping some one can help with suggestions on this one! My Galaxy had to have the engine replaced as the turbo hydrauliced the engine causing a lacvk of compression on cylinder 4. The gearbox was swopped from the old to the new (well second hand one)engine, the car seemed to drive fine initially but did on a couple of occasions at idle do a bit of a split second shudder when sat at lights. Now the main problem, the gearbox suddenly seemed to be slipping excessively in first gear to pull away, after changing to second it would change to third and if you slowed down hold onto the gear and the start to shudder (like a manual car does if in too high a gear). The fault memory test shows 00652 Gear Monitoring fault, I've checked the speed sensor signals and the engine speed signal from the crank sensor almost matches the input speed signal on the gearbox until the car is put into drive when it drops to 0 and the engine reves can 1500 rpm and the input speed is only 200 rpm. The only other comment is the gear selector position switch has been adjusted but this only seemed to make the problem constant rather than working ok for a while when the fault memory was reset Possible selecvtor switch problem?? I wondered if any one else han had the same problem? Oly other thought was torque convertor??? Thanks for reading Dave

A bit of clarification required on the fault if possible, the car runs erratically and stalls... does it stall or does it cut out when being driven, if it occurs at idle or when changing gear then it could be stalling/not idling but if it cuts out when driving then it is more likely to be loosing a signal. If possible could you give a bit more information Ta Dave

I'd be inclined to check the blower resistor again as it could be overheating causing the smell and only working when it has cooled. Heater blower motors tend to just stop rather than work when they have cooled down Best wishes Dave

Sorry I didn't check the forum until today so no chance of giving you any other ideas but hey sounds like you've sussed it any way :) Dave