dlt1617

I would be looking at the driver's door wiring between the door and the pillar and also the tailgate wiring at the top right of the tailgate, lots of posts and also in the Faqs, Common Questions And Solutions There could be broken wires in both! Best wishes Dave

Sorry I just rechecked the listing number and I missed an 8 of the end whem I copied and posted it. Dave

33075337110 on ebay is what you would need to check the codes, I had a problem with a 99 Galaxy that had a fault code for the driver's air bag I bought a slip ring from fleabay secondhand...the light was still on after I fitted it....bought a secondhand air bag....the light was still on after I fitted it...bought another slip ring...finally fixed as the first "new" air bag slip ring was faulty! Dave

Hi Gazmech you comment you bought a code reder but get a connection error what software is it using i.e. is it one of the fleabay code readers that uses vcds software? Dave

I agree with Sparky Paul but you said you had it connected to a Snap on diagnostic machine did that show Driver's air bag? If it did change the contact scroll/air bag slip ring/clock spring (these are all the same thing!) Dave

My faults on the turbo on a mark 2 were listed under the engine ecu Best wishes Dave

Hi Janine, just thought I'd add my comment to the post Well done for giving an update to your original post I'm probably as bad as anyone in posting a request for information and not updating the information later with the out come so again WELL DONE! Best wishes Dave

Another thought would be the crankshaft sensor but this would mean a fault memory test to confirm Best wishes Dave

May seem strange but turn the wheel at least several times in qwick sucession fully lock to lock just in case the steering was not blead of air. You would need to make sure it is hard over to the stops for a couple of seconds on each side. Best wishes Dave

Hi welcome to the forum, you'll find this an absolute gold mine of information on the Galaxies! If you cannot find something on the Common problems section try doing a search as this a lot of the time can produce some great results. If you are having problems with the alarm activating I would have a look to see if the interior light is on if so the door switch could be your problem....but if the main interior light is not on check the interior lights in the boot as my problem was masked by the roller blind in the boot as I could not see the lights on until I left the blind open. If the lights are on in the boot when the alarm goes of pull back the gaitor on the driver's side at the top of the boot and if you pull off the tape around the harness you will probably find agroup of wires broken. The broken wires cause a short which then causes the car to thing the boot has been opened when the alarm is active. I would recommend repairing all the wires as I did mine for this problem and repaired about 8 or 9 of them...unfortunately the no plate lamps go off as I open the boot so one of the others has now broken (bugger!) Best wishes Dave

Hi Matt, I will finish the notes on replacing the matrix when I have time but the main thing I found was that there was so little information on what needs to be removed to replace it as apposed to removing the whole heater case which is not necessary. You have to remove all the dash trims and there is a reinforcing bar that has to be loose but not removed. The heater case just needs to be moved back by a couple of inches to allow the matrix to be removed from the top. Most of my time was wasted trying to find where the bolts/nuts were retaining the heater case in the engine bay and trying to find a way to get to them with out without removing more than necessary(either parts on the car or skin on my hands!). Best wishes Dave

I thought I would post this for anyone thinking about replacing the main heater matrix on Mk2 Galaxy so that it will take less time then it has taken me! If you have a Ford TIS disc or VW Elsawin (I have both) ignore whats listed as it's rubbish! Remove the bulkhead panel above the engine (only 3 bolts) and then remove the wiper linkage and the pollen filter and housing. On the driver's side remove the sound insulation fitted on the bulkhead below the wiper linkage and next to the horn. Remove all the bolts and nuts you can now see across the bulkhead area. There are nuts and bolts lower down on the bulkhead which also need to be removed, on the passengerside there are several little flaps in the insulation at the back of the engine bay which cover nuts that have to be removed - get yourself a palm rachet and some long reach sockets before you start or give up now! The worse one is fitted right up in the far right of the engine bay behind the abs pump (the thing on the passenger inner wing with all the brake pipes going to it) which is behind one of these flaps and I could only just reach (and I've only got small hands - no jokes please). On the driver's side there is a bolt fitted behind the vacuum valves on the bulkhead - save time by just removing the heat sheild over them and then undoing the two nuts that hold the bracket with them on. The bolt is high up just under the lip where the bracket fits. There is also a bolt behind the run on water pump in the centre/passengerside of the bulkhead, again just undo the two nuts for the bracket and it is up the to under the lip (you may need to push the wiring harness there down a bit to get to it. Disconnect the two water hoses where they go through the bulkhead and disconnect the air con pipes from the valve on the passengerside, the disconnect the valve. That should be everything disconnected from the engine bay side now the dash! When you open the doors on both sides of the dash are blanking panels that just pull off. Having removed them you can get to the top triangular vents and the main fresh air vents underneath them which with a bit of jiggling can be removed, there are wires going to the vents for the illumination which need a little hook lifting up to remove the plug. The silver trims across the centre of the dash can be pulled of (start from the outside and move in). Once removed you can see the screws that hold the top and bottom sections together, undo the lot and then on the passenger top dash compartment remove the screws retaining it and pull it slightly towards you to remove it. The centre compartment just need the screws removing to remove. With the compartmements of you can get to the top dash screws - remove them as well as nothing falls off! The glovebox has two pins at the bottom that just unclip and left and right hook shaped bits to stop it opening to far, remove the trim around the left hook bit and the right will unhook if gently lifted/pulled. There are then screws to remove on the lower part of the lower dash panel, two on the top of the glovebox apperture. I'm a bit tired now so I'll add more tomorrow! Dave

You mention the battery is new have you checked the battery terminals to make sure they are tight? I've seen several cars over the years with strange electrical faults which have had new batteries and the terminals are loose (people don't check as that's the bit they know is new!) Best wishes Dave

My pump hasn't gone yet but I thought I'd have a look on Fleabay to see if anything suitable was listed and I came across these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replacing-5mm-x-5mm-x-12mm-DC-Electric-Motor-Carbon-Brush-4pcs-/290825259242?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43b68948ea I just wondered if anyone who had done the pump could confirm if the copper braid off it looks suitable? Best wishes Dave

If it's a Mark2 Galaxy my pads were fine with good sensors but I had a break in the wiring to the pad sensor on the front, the connector you can see with the passenger front wheel off had a broken wire on the plug on the chassis side i.e. not the pad sensor side. Mine was self inflicted as the caliper fell from where I placed it and swung on the hose and wiring. As it's part of the abs sensor I've just connected the two wires togetther on the plug, it just means keeping an eye on the pad thickness! Best wishes Dave

Hi try the local motor factors for the oil, you will probably not use all of the 3 litres as they usually quote fill quantities for a dry box. If there is very little oil in the gearbox I would start looking for the leak as you could have an oil seal leaking dropping the level. As far as draining and refilling with fresh check what drains out of the box to see if there are any metal fillings in it. Best wishes Dave

Hi do a search on here for a post about a coolant temperature fault and I think it might be your problem, from memory (could be wrong as I'm getting older!) if the coolant temperature sensor fitted in the bottom of the thermostat cover is faulty it can cause them to smoke. Totally ignore the previous advice ref the additional heater as we all thought it was from the small exhaust for this not the main exhaust for the engine Best wishes Dave p.s. I think the sensors come in two colours and you need to check which one is fitted, also once you know the colour get it from VW as it's far cheeper (it's common so they will know which one!)

I may be clutching at straws but I had a problem where the indicators didn't work on my mk1 Galaxy (I also think the wipers stopped at the same time) the fault then was a thin wire which was attached to the positive terminal on the battery, it had broken although I think when you looked at it initially it looked ok as the insulation on the wire was still attached but th centre core was broken. It was just the case of crimping a round connector on the end of the wire and bolting it back to the battery terminal. May not help but just a thought! Best wishes Dave p.s. if it works have a beer for me on the money you saved!

Hi Don if the haynes manual that is listed for the mk1 Galaxy now does not cover it then I would suggest trying a TIS disc from Fleabay as they are simply to use and cover all the Galaxy models for mk1 and 2 Best wishes Dave

The auxillary heater only comes on when the outside temperature is low enough and the engine is cold so that you get heat in the car quickly as deisels can take a long time to warm up in cold weather. Eventually after approx half a dozen starts where the heater logs a fault with not running properly its shuts the heater down and stops doing it! The bad news is even if you then replace th glow plug in the heater it will not work until the fault memory has been reset. I planned to do mine in the summer and forgot all about it but I'm not to worried just a bit cold first thing! Best wishes Dave

Hi if the noise goes when the clutch is pressed down it would normally suggest a bearing in the box is noisy associated with 5th gear. Depressing the clutch pdal means you have removed the loading from torque from the engine hence the noise stops. If it was a wheel bearing I would expct it to do it at a certain road speed or when loading the bearing when cournering. A good start point would be to check the oil level on the gearbox incase it's low but other wise I would say it's a fault witin the box. Best wishes Dave

On the VW range of engines it's the letters that decide what engine it is so as long as the engine letters are the same then yes it should fit. One word of warning the other models of cars in the VW range may us a similar engine but not the same code so check for the engine code first on a lot of them its on the top of the cover over the cam belt Best wishes Dave

Hi have you checked the starter motor as I mention i.e hand on it when someone turns the key? Also what is the battery condition like? I've had cases in the past where the battery was high enough to put the ignition lights on as normal but not enough to turn the starter so trying with jump leads on might help. If the battery is ok and the click is from the starter it could be the drive on the end of the starter has failed so remove the starter and check the end of it. I had a Mk1 2.3 (now got a Mk2 1.9tdi) and had the starter of it due to failure and from what I remember it's a straight forward job. Dave

Hi if yours is a 2009 Galaxy it's a Mk3 as the Mk2 finished in 2005/6, the seat belt alarm on most new cars is in the seat belt receiver part (the red bit you put the belt into). The passenger seat belt warning would come on when someone is in the seat (or at least the car thinks there is someone in the seat). If the belt alarm is definately affected by your position in the seat I would try moving the position of the seat belt end in the receiver part (the red bit) and if this does the same then I would replace the receiver. The bit under the seat is a belt prestensioner and in most cases it comes with the receiver part of the seat belt (sorry this makes it expensive). If you do change it you have to treat it carefully and disconnect the battery for about ten minutes before disconnecting the wire to it as failure to do this could set the explosive chareg of in it! Best wishes Dave

You mention you went in for a diagnostic did this include checking the fault memory? If not I would check the fault memory incase there is a fault listed with boost pressure as sticking vanes in the turbo are not uncommon on these. Before you condem anything I would do the fault test first. Dave