Topbloke

front disc's min thickness 21mm rears 8mm :lol:

this sounds like a possible belt tensioner problem usually a precursur to the tensioner or idler failing, if you are handy with spanner let the tension of the belt and rotate the rollers/pullys best when cold as thats when the noise starts don't forget to draw the belt run before you take the belt off. the rollers/tensioner should rotate with no roughness or noise

sounds like it could be a lazy hydraulic tappet . do you have the correct grade engine oil, fords tend to like there own oils or they used to on the older models.

as far as i am aware it covers the glow plug cicuit and acts as the engine management warning light, apologies for the crossed wires see last post I think what happens is that when you press the brake pedal it turns the lights on (der) an tells the ecu that you are braking which shuts of fuel and tells it to disregard boost presures etc . I also drive a t4 veedub and that shuts fuel of cos if i press accelerator and brake at same time it don't rev up (have large feet) same sort of idea keep me posted going bye bye's now :(

forget the last question, long day and on earlys. :(

the switch on the clutch pedal is connected to the ecu and tells the cruise to disengage not to sure if faulty switch would make light flash but you could disconect it and see what happens worst it could do would be that the cruise would not work. i would expect the light out tell tale would inform you, did not know what spec you had but applying logic it must be full spec to have cruise. you can test the switches,you would need two multi meters and connect them to each switch set to resistance then press pedal should both work at same time, you could do it with some wire's and bulb's and holder's and some power but would be hard work. if you did it with one meter you could see that they worked but not in unison. blue switch is purely on/off and makes no difference which way . why are you so sure that the flashing bulb is to do with the cruise ?

in the locking wheel nut kit there should be an sticker/label with an number on it this is the ident for the locking nut key an should be available from frauds if not it depends which type you have got but I usually try an find an old socket that is just too small and knock it on . if you don't have an puncture you could try your friendly tyre shop they sometimes have the kit

are you testing them in-situ all you need to do is discconect them or do you mean that you found the bolt sheared ? is it loose could be the problem !!!!!!

Black switch is for the brake lights and also sends a signal to the ecu . Blue switch is for the ecu, they should both work in unison, worth checking that they both work together may be okay when car interior cool but one could be closer to heat vent possible distotion in bracket they do sufer from poor connections also . If one off the brake light bulbs fails it will also make the light flash could be poor connection at the rear lights or dodgy bulb ie fillament touching some times other times not .just another thought are you an aa member if so give them a call we have laptops which can access some ecu's, engine only but worth a try. they also have a tech department that you can call . I am assuming that the vehicle is a manual it has a switch on the clutch pedal as well worth checking this also for the afore mentioned problems :(

sounds like it could be a fuse but it will probably be an maxi fuse which are the same as an ordanary fuse except its on steroids usually near the battery in another box or it could be a poor connection to the maxi fuse holder/ box what were you using just before it happened it is not very often that these blow unless it is a serious short happy hunting

as an A A patrol i do go to a lot of failed tensioners/ idlers but not been to any galaxy's yet normally saabs n vauxhalls

the typical values are 0.9 / 1.3 k ohms you should also check the screen wiring for resistance the screen wiring is usually a third terminal on the abs connector and the resistance should be about 100 k ohms ( ie open circuit ) you can also set your meter to ac volts and spin the wheel whilst probing the wires depending what speed you spin it at should get a output voltage typical is 0.25 milli volts. if they all check out okay then you will have to get the wireing diagrams for the abs ecu then check them at the ecu connector to see if there is a broken wire/ high resistance good luck ! B)

i have just been outside and took the hi level brake light off the rear screen from my 98 galaxy so the sharan must be different

a quick check is turn the ign on or start engine abs system goes through a self check mode if the light goes of and then comes on after you start driveing it is one wheel speed sensor if it goes out then comes straight back on its proberly an intenal eletrical fault, worth checking the tyres are they all worn about the same, one tyre worn more than any other will cause it to come on at speed, the abs light can come on if the alternator is over chargeing if you can use a multimeter i can give you the resistances for the sensors