Topbloke

Hi folks i havn't been on here in a long while so some may remember me a lot won't okay the problem that i am having is this, couple of weeks ago I jumped into the car turned the key and no cranking, heard a funny beeping noise never heard before sounded like it was under passenger seat " i rarely use this car its the wifes" tried it again same thing"no crank beep" checked that all the doors were shut tried again started and no further problems, recently been advised by swmbo that its starting "funny" slow cranking, battery is four years old so about time it had a new one but checked charge to be sure, all okay, i went out tonight to collect my daughter and the car cranked over a lot longer than it normaly do's to the point that i almost let go of the key to try it again, but it caught and i started driving, but what i noticed was that the light in the drivers door was flashing rapidly then went into a sequence of flashes, 23 was the code but i have searched to no avail on this forum and am unable to find any reference to this, i dont know if the battery being in a poor condition has caused this or if its all related to relay 30/27 your input will be gratefully accepted and i will post the resolution if i get to the bottom of it many thanks TB

Hi guys and gal's just would like to know if my vehicle has a secondary air pump it is a 2.3 petrol galaxy auto circa 1998 vintage , basically i thought that it was using to much fuel and got the emmisions checked and its running rich, not hugely, but rich anyway, thought that i remembered that there was a common fault on this vehicle, had a search and can find a few pic's but i cant find it on the car, so dont know if i have one and its put out of the way (ie inner wing) or i don't have one and i'm barking up the wrong tree many thanks, Topbloke ps also need to know where (if fitted) the fuse/ relay is

possible partial blocked exhaust, if there has been a missfire / overfuel this will break down the cat ,parts come off and travel through the exhaust untill they get to a bend where they get stuck this cause a blockage (duh) and strangles the engine a quick test is to get some one to rev the engine while you go to the back of the car and test how much pressure there is coming out of the exhaust ( mind it can get very hot) you could also drop the exhaust off the manifold's and see if it runs any better (although its very noisey this way)

usually the light on is only an indication of a minimum time that you should wait, on modern diesels there is a sensor that takes a reading of the engine temp and sends a signal to the glow relay, when the engine is warm does the glow plug light come on at all ! if not then this would suggest that a sensor is fitted and is working correctly

the outside is the smooth side , the grovved side is the working side ie it faces the pulleys that have the groves in

as a cautionary note the tensioner has a nylon/plastic bush internall and the spring tension tends to put undue presure on this and when a little age the tesioner roller(the black bit) starts to run slightly on the p*ss so changing the roller on its own usually a false econnomy

delboys motor is a 2.0 litre motor and is totally different to the 2.3 that said its easier than a 2.0

i had that thought also, if its intermitant check it when the problem is there !, seems a stupid comment but sometimes it helps to state the bloody obvious

unless the maf go's open circuit its very unlikly that a code will be stored, i have diagnosed loads of these via vag com or the vauxhall equivalent and none actually store codes, the techies should expect to see a fluctuation in readings as the car is reved .as far as the tank is concerned there is a swirl chamber to retain fuel in while cornering etc but no baffles as such a good test would be to see if it does it when there is more/ less fuel, but as its under warranty let them deal with it but i still recon that it will be the bar as mentioned above

i dont know if that is tounge in cheek but the test is only letting you know at the time of the test that it passed a minimum standard and says as much on the certificate

there are three snap on code readers currently but i cant tell you wether they will be able to turn on/off body systems i used the old model one today to clear codes on my airbag but fault still there oh well more money i am sure that if you let him play with it he will find out, win win situation i think its called

possible relay no 30 fault, try a search as its been covered before (not uncommon)

its sounds like you are not getting sufficent fuel or there is still a burnt wire/ knackered sensor some where . i would check the fuel pump relay and relay no 30 (do a search for locations) could you get the vehicle to a garage for the codes to be read or a local guy that comes to you to see what the mass air flow is doing and temp sensor readings give these a try and get back to the forum and let us know any results

you were lucky, it all depends how far you can press the pedal down when fitting , if servo full "or should that be empty" the pedal will go further down ,if its the other way round you may inadvertantly depress the plunger a few clics and it will need setting ie start car depress pedal pull plunger out as far as poss then release pedal!

i know of the same problem with golfs and polo's i have changed the master cyl and that cures them okay, as they"galaxys" are mainly vw sourced parts possibly same problem !

i am fairly sure that they are glued in and the clips are for when the glue fails, as an young apprentice we had to recall a lot of chevette's "vauxhall viva replacements" the glue was failing and the customers were coming out in the morning and finding the lenses smashed on the floor ever since then all or nearly all head lamps have had clips on

have you reset both switches as one works the lights and the other gives a signal to ecu if the ecu sees that the brake is applied via the ecu switch then it will cut fuel if may just be coincidence that you have a maf fault, but as you say it was okay prior to the switch prob

well done m of 4 enjoy your new found freedom

short term fix would be to purchase a drive belt for galaxy with out aircon and fit it without going around pump as it will be to short

try a reputable motor factor ,motor serve, cas if they dont stock it they could possible tell you where to source some from

no its rubber because the plastic ones split and thats what we were supplied with as replacement as the ends are heat shrunk on just cut the plastic with a knife and cut pipe to lenght then push on ends and tighten clips far better than plastic the reinforcement is to stop it collapsing and to give it some rigiditty (is that spelt right)

i have an old addage never trust a fuse box guide check every fuse that you can find, i have a thory that the guys at the factory just put what they have in the bins and some times they even get it right !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you can buy reinforced servo pipe by the metre but its rubber with a metal reinforcer around it cut to lenght and jubilee clips sorted but watch out for the sharp bits they hurt.what part of the country are you in i have some in the garage if its any use to you

common problems are 1 maf 2 split vac pipes well worth doing a search as common problems and fairly easy to check/diagnose

possibly water in passenger fotwell / under seat area if so do a search as this is a common problem , central locking/global closure relays under seat normal culprit is washer pipe split/detached or scuttle drains blocked