
dipsomaniac
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Conflicting Advice On Aircon
dipsomaniac replied to Wibbly's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
as you can probably count the number of days on two hands when the temperature in the UK is constantly below 5C it is not worth worrying about. don't know the reason for it but i would imagine that air con is not so effienct below that temperature as there is not much heat to remove from the air. if your air con is working ok and the compressor is not making any unusual noises - i would say it is ok. -
Conflicting Advice On Aircon
dipsomaniac replied to Wibbly's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
air con does not come on below 5C. it is recommended that you run the air con at least once a month for 20 mins to lubricate the system. -
picked up the part today. the restriction is only on one end of the 'T'. before i fit it does anyone have any ideas why parts of the coolant system are failing? first the matrix blew and now a hose. is it just that the system is fragile through age or have i got a blockage somewhere?
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first thing to do is get the transmission fluid level checked.
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is that genuine miles dan? if so, that is very low for year. that engine should see at least 200k (as long as oil is changed and not raced) before any major engine wear/damage.
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vr6 - you had the right part just transposed two numbers. the part i need is n 907 826 01. thankfully i don't have to buy another assembly as ford and vw originally advised. the part is
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thanks strouf. part 15 looks something like the part i need although my set up doesn't look exactly like the one in the diagram. i was about to give up and use the 't' connector from the aquarium shop as vw didn't want to know when i told them it was a ford galaxy. ford are telling me that i need the whole assembly costing
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1998-2000 Galaxy Dashboard Removal
dipsomaniac replied to dave11674's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
any major problems? -
VR6 - vw are saying - that number is for a nut or bolt. can anyone post an ekta diagram of the coolant/heater hoses going into the matrix as the earlier diagram from strouf shows the hose that i blew but does not appear to show the 't' piece restrictor that i am looking for.
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was hoping you would sort it out dan - did the sparky not have a clue what the problem was??? sounds like a major component failure
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sorry i can't be much help. i had my gearbox reconditioned 19 months ago - it is now out of warranty. i am still having the same problem with the gear change being harsh between 3rd and 4th. i have learned to live with it as it is not every change. it mainly happens when you have slowed down from 4th to 3rd and then accerate again. it is the change from 3rd to 4th which is rough. i couldn't find any further information on the 01166 fault code. the auto box people conveniently could not find a problem during the 4 times that i took the car back. they said that it maybe an inherent problem - whatever that it supposed to mean. can you let me know if you do solve the problem?
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can somebody with etka please post a diagram of the coolant hoses at the back of the engine
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are the chances of it being the coilpack = to aus winning the ashes?
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the 'T' connector comes as a complete unit (hose + connector) and costs
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Crazy Electrics
dipsomaniac replied to mrunlucky's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
have a look at the brake light/rear light bulbs. sometimes the connectors on the bulb holder can touch causing all sorts of weird electrical problems - like the main beam coming on when you press the brake pedal. -
vr6 - that is a chassis number according to vw parts. they are saying that the 'T' pieces comes with the hose -
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1998-2000 Galaxy Dashboard Removal
dipsomaniac replied to dave11674's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
speaking to a vw technician last night - he recons the dash out and back in is a 6 hour job - they obviously aren't allowed as many tea breaks as you or I. i am still waiting for a spare 5 days to start mine. might be a bit late but he did mention that you shouldn't turn the ignition on during the job as you will need to clear any fault codes once it is back together. if you have access to the hardware/software to clear them it is not a problem. did you need to remove the sound proofing in the engine bay to access some of the bolts? can you let me know how you get on and what problems you experience? -
thanks for the replies. was speaking to a vw technician (16 years experience) last night and he thought that it was probably there to protect the matrix. it could be something to do with the hose coming off the main (19mm) hose to the throttle valve as it is a similar diameter to the restriction. i will fit the correct part.
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thank you. anyone any ideas why it is restricted?
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any ideas anyone or a part no.
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sorry, didn't read your previous post properly. according to my manual, when the inigition is turned on the door led will flash slowly for one minute or stay on continuously if there is a problem with the immobiliser. i always thought that a car will start with an imobiliser problem but then switch off??
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got the new hose. coolant hose 'T' connector (heater matrix > throttle vavle > cylinder head) disintegrated when hose was removed. sourced a 19mm 'T' piece from the local aquarium shop. when i removed the final remains of the 'T' piece today i found that the bore had been reduced to approx 5mm (see image). has anyone got any idea why this bore has been reduced? what would happen if i use a 19mm 'T' (throughout) to connect these 3 x hoses?
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i would have thought that the auto electrician would have checked the immobiliser. have you tried the spare key? all cylinders do not need to spark to run the engine. i have driven mine on 3 but it is not advisable as you have a lot of unburnt fuel entering the cat. can you re-cap on what you have changed and whether it was old or a new replacement? what else did the auto electrician check and were there any other faults logged?