dipsomaniac

misfiring, three cylinders in my case. no power, popping, cat glowing red from unburnt fuel. firstly if you have the hardware/software you need to check if any error codes have been logged. then, you need to eliminate plugs, ht leads and any damaged wiring to the coilpack. if you still haven't got a healthy blue spark to all plugs you need to check for an electrical pulse from the ecu to the coilpack. if that is there then it is 99% certain that you have a faulty coilpack.

good news. its a huge relief when you fire car up for the first time after changing the coilpack and it does sound like an old moped anymore.

if you are getting a poor spark to one plug and it is not the fault of the ht lead, spark plug or ecu it must be the coilpack. i was sent down the wrong path very early in the diagnosis of a misfire because someone told me that it couldn't be the coilpack because of the particular cylinders that were misfiring.

don't know if i have asked this question before. apologies if i have. my temp gauge goes up and down more times than a ....(insert own line). when in traffic is it normal for the temp gauge on the v6 to go near the red before the fans cut in an send the gauge back to norm. my oh's diesel focus stays upright at all times!! there does seem to be a lot of pressure in the system as i have blown the heater matrix and a hose recently. i have tested for combustion gases in the header tank and appears ok. have also replaced the header cap and thermostat and housing. any advice appreciated.

try vw also, they may differ in price or have one in stock. from my experience ford are better with delivery times than my local vw. can you let me know the price as mine has been a bit tempermental for years. i have never seen one of these cars in my local breakers

you say that immobiliser recognises the key but may still be worth trying the spare key. you have looked at the most common causes so next you need to scan the system to see if any fault codes are logged.

6 hours later finally finished and i would be very reluctant to attempt this again, especially as autodata are only quoted 1.5 hours. if you can afford this and trust a garage with your car i would take that option as they will then be taking all the risk - and i guarantee you will get your monies worth. it is a minimum 3 hour job. if you do attempt it yourself, here are a few tips; have a spare sensor retaining clip - only

almost certainly inhibitor switch. it is located under the trim at the base of the gear lever. remove the screw which secures the gear knob and slide the shroud off. you should then be able to prise off the trim.

just need to get this off my chest........ arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh 4 hours so far and still not done. & i have just dropped one of the temp sensor clips into the engine bay and can't find it. have given up until tomorrow.

mine has been connected with cable ties for the last couple of years with no problems. i don't think there are any cheap options as even the airboxes on eBay or at your local breakers will be in high demand for the reasons you have stated. a kn filter is another option and would save the hassle of having to remove the airbox in order to get access to just about anything under the bonnet.

modern engines should be good for +300k these days if looked after/serviced regularly. you need to check the basics first regarding the hesitation, plugs, leads, coilpack etc. Also have a look around the air filter/Maf area for any signs of disconnected hoses. there is no real easy way to get to the plugs at the back. you will need to remove the air filter box and lead trays, removing the scuttle drain will give you more access. you will also need the lead removal tool to remove and replace the ht leads.

thanks for clarifying that mumble bee. i took the info off the gsf site which looks like it could be incorrect as it only lists the 120 amp for the v6.

car will have to relearn certain parameters after disconnecting the battery - that should take approx 10 miles. if it was ok before fitting the battery and not after you must have disturbed something. re-check that all of the wires are connected to terminals properly. alternator 92.50 on GSF

probably EVAP, it is around that area and returns unburnt fuel to the block for combustion. will be a main dealer (vw, ford or seat) part.

vw wanted 265. what make was it - gsf was beru. i cycled a 30 mile round trip to pick up mine too

you would have a very bad misfire and loss of power if running on four. when my coilpack failed my car was only running on three. i had a spark on those three cylinders but not a very healthy one. when it was established that i had a pulse from the ecu to the coilpack by elimination it must have been a faulty coilpack. best place for a coil pack is gsf -

sorry don't know the size but you can buy the allen key bolts from vw

have a look at your main air intake hose and around that area. the main hose has been known to come off the throttle body. the engine will run ok on 5 so don't think it would be a plug or lead. a coilpack failure would also produce those symptoms. don't run it too long as it is, it sounds like you are frying the CAT the other temp sensor will control the fans

like has been said before i would be inclined to take it back to the garage and ask them to look at it FOC. failing that check that all of the leads and hoses were reconnected properly. could be coilpack as that would have received a good soaking when hose blew. i had similar symptoms when my coilpack failed. the unburnt fuel was going into the CAT. you need to check the basics first. you can test the coilpack on the car. if it has failed? gsf parts is the place to go

how did you fix the gearbox?

thanks for the help. i didn't realise it was a return, i thought it was the main fuel feel. will fit an o ring this weekend.

thanks for the replies. have owned the car for around 2 years. enquired about service history at local ford just after buying and found that previous owner had spent

excuse me for posing this problem here. but other half has the car above. it has been smelling of diesel for some time. finally got around to investigating at the weekend and found that diesel was spraying from one of the injector feeds. noticed that out of the four injectors this is the only one without an orange/copper 'o' ring (ford fitted them before we bought car). can anyone please answer the following; is this the problem or could it be a cracked pipe is the system pressurised how do i fix it i know it is a galaxy forum. i have tried to answer a few galaxy question and am hoping that i have earned an answer to this question. any advice would be very much appreciated.

good luck. my 'T' piece just crumbled when i tried to disconnect the hose. i think i may have had a pin prick hole in the hose all along before bursting. it would explain why i have always been losing coolant but not able to find where as it would have evaporated immediately on the exhaust manifold.

thanks strouf. happy new year to one and all.