Beyond Help?

It could also be the fork that holds the release bearing has bent out a bit, very rare but it does happen and the symptoms are exactly as described above, no resistance on the pedal for a bit. Clamp the clutch flexible pipe off and see what the pedal does, if it is solid it is the gearbox end of the system and and it will have to come off. If the box does have to come off consider having the clutch, slave and clutch release bearing all changed anyway as the bulk of the cost is removing the gearbox.

My compressor clutch bearings failed completely. On removal of the pump they have been spinning the inner & outer race and it has damaged both the clutch and the pump. I may source another pump if I can be bothered. In the mean time the water pump pulley has been changed and a different set of belts fitted so the car can be used.

No, the blade must be programed to the Immobiliser.

GSF Part number for the glow-plug is bbgh001 and they are

It is not difficult, Loosen the CV/Hub securing nut, remove the wheel, old CV boot, track rod ball joint, anti-roll bar extension and bottom arm bracket bolt. Unscrew the CV joint securing nut almost all the way out, but leave it in about an inch, then hit it with a mallet (no, not a bloody lump hammer!) to free the joint from the hub. Remove the bolt. Now making sure the drive shaft does not pull on the inner CV joint release the disc/hub unit from the bottom arm. Remove the CV Joint bolt and remove the joint/drive-shaft from the hub* again taking care not to damage the inner CV joint by pulling on it. Support the shaft on an axle stand or with cable ties etc. Remove the joint from the shaft by replacing the securing bolt and screwing it all the way in. The joint and shaft should now separate, but note the order of the washers/components. Inspect the CV joint and check the grease for contamination, clean and re-grease if required.** Put the new CV boot on the drive-shaft, and refit in the reverse of above, again taking care with the inner CV joint. Personally I would change the whole CV joint as they are sub

I am going to stick my neck out here. An old con used to be not to screw the compression tester fully home and get a low reading. Were you with the mechanic when he did the test? If so then it is possible he was trying to pull that (old) stunt. Coil pack has to be favourite for the next thing to check.

I am fascinated by your perception that OEM brake disks and pads are better value because they last longer. Whilst I would not recommend brake pads that cost

Your best bet would be to post on this thread and PM people to let them know you have put a new post up.

There can be a lot of confusion about head gasket symptoms as there can be many, and you can get one or more of them. But as said by others, if your getting little or no compression on two adjacent cylinders then the the gasket has almost definitely failed between them. With this kind of failure you would get no other symptoms than bad running or rough idle and perhaps starting problems. No gasses in the water, no oil and water mixing etc. This needs sorting ASAP or you will be looking at stripping the head and having it skimmed as a hot spot can form where the missing gasket sits causing damage to the mating faces.

If it is the right one then a GSF part number would be great, but my catalogue only lists engine glow plugs but they show as a little over

OK, well check the MAF and if that is not the problem look for splits in the vacuum hoses to and from the solenoids, the vacuum pipe to the turbo and the vacuum pipe to the EGR. Also check the plastic hose from the vacuum pump on the front of the engine has not chaffed through, although that would effect the brakes too so it is unlikely the problem.

Unplug the electriacal connector to the MAF, drive the car, if it is better or the same the MAF has had it. I take it you have no dashboard engine warning lights on? Like the glowplug light flashing?

I can buy in CV joints at about

http://www.redtop-servicing.co.uk/files/heater.pdf http://www.redtop-servicing.co.uk/files/d5w.pdf - The model number fitted to the vehicle is D5WS

It is an OEM version of the 5 series water heater. Older models had an OEM version of the 3 series not shown on the site. The series number refers to the maximum output. 5kW/h or 3kW/h

It has indeed been succeeded, for one that runs hotter!

I do apologies John, I was booking a service for someone and skimming through at the same time, and indeed your correct, the brackets do need to come off if your changing the rotors too.

You do not remove the mounting brackets when you change the pads, they are thread-locked in, that is why they are so tight. The brakes are of a floating caliper design, you remove the slider pins using a (7mm I think) hex headed key and lift the caliper off the bracket. Did you thread-lock your mounting bracket bolts back in? You should really use new ones as they are self locking, but thread-lock would suffice. Sometimes a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

When you say you can smell burning, is it a hot oil smell? Normally when you can smell hot or burning oil whuren you exit the car it is an oil leak onto a manifold or other hot area. Is your car dropping any oil onto the ground?

Check all the blades are there and complete when you remove the turbo, and look for any bits when you pour any oil etc out of the intercooler and intake pipes. Don't forget the exhaust could have oil in too....

How many miles has the engine done, it could be the camshaft that is out of spec.

No, the pressure only needs to be a few PSI to float the shells and turn the light off. The holes into the tappets are very small and the oil has to flood round them as the tappets 'chatter' and turn round so the holes do not actually line up. It can take a few minutes for everything to be right for them to fill. A friends Focus used to rattle for about five minutes before the tappets filled, I don't think you have much to worry about.

I would not normally push another web-site on a forum I use, but try asking in the insurance section here: http://www.5ive-o.org/forum/portal.php